1975 914 2.0L info?

[The Glademister]

So I'm looking at what appears to be an all original car that has sat in storage for about 30 years. Getting a title from the buyer (who purchased from the original owners widow) is going to be problematic. Does anyone on this forum have access to Porsche records by VIN like the 928 guys do?

Thanks!

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Nope. CarFax doesn't even recognize the VIN format used by cars as old as a 914. That's yet another reason why records are so important.

If you have the VIN, you can search for it on the "members VIN numbers" section (found under "914 info") of the 914world website: 914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community! People post VINs that they find "in the wild" sometimes, and at various for-sale sites, ebay, etc. That can give you a little history, at least.

I don't know what TN does in lost-title situations; you should definitely research your local laws for that! It may also help to ask your local DMV or friendly local cops to run a stolen-car check on the VIN, just in case.

If you're looking for information on what equipment originally came on a car, you'd have to go through Porsche North America for that. Note that the records are less than perfect, especially with regard to option codes. (E.g., I'm pretty sure that US-spec car doesn't have "equipment for Sweden" installed.) At least they seem to be good about engine displacements!

N.B., they will no longer tell you what engine number is recorded as going with the chassis. They will only say "yes, it was that one" or "nope, not that one" for whatever engine number you send them.

If you're looking for clues about what engine originally was installed in the car, see if there is an emissions compliance sticker in the engine bay. It will state a displacement for the engine, either 109 cubic inches (1.8 liter) or 120 cubic inches (2.0 liter). Though we have seen at least one case where it seems an original 2-liter car did have a 1.8 liter compliance sticker...

--DD

[dr914]

if all fails you can get a title bond

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by dr914

if all fails you can get a title bond

Copy that Dr.

I heard in Georgia the registration folks were not asking for titles anymore on cars older than 30 years. Is that the case?

[tonythetarga]

I was in a similar situation and ended up going to the widow and obtaining a copy of the death certificate as well as a notarized bill of sale.
The seller you are talking to is not a legal owner without a title of some other verifiable legal document of ownership.
If you buy it as is you inherit the problem.

[dr914]

Originally Posted by The Glademister

Copy that Dr.

I heard in Georgia the registration folks were not asking for titles anymore on cars older than 30 years. Is that the case?

sure is the case, just need a bill of sale and a serial number verification on the car, take both to the tag office and you get a new registration and license plate. THEN if you move to a title state they exchange the registration for a title.

[The Glademister]

Well I purchased that 914. The rust was slightly better than expected but I'm sure there's more surprises. I was told that the sellers helper tried cranking with the starter and it spun but no fire. Not sure that was smart after sitting so long. It does have a carb conversion so that's disappointing. You'll note the wheels are EMPI (I think). The rear truck hinge PS is broke off. The DS front wheel bearing is shot. Some plywood in the front trunk covering a couple holes cut into that pan (not sure why). Of course all the tires a dry rotted and flat. But all the glass is intact and the interior is complete except the radio is missing (no surprise).

That's about all I know for now as it eight hours driving and I just had time to get it in the garage.

Here's photos from the Marketplace ad...

[djpateman]

I can certainly help get information on the car as it was delivered by the factory. Please email me for more information. Dave

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by djpateman

I can certainly help get information on the car as it was delivered by the factory. Please email me for more information. Dave

Thanks for that Dave email sent.

I bought that 914 and have started evaluation. Note that I'm posting videos on my two garage threads...

https://www.youtube.com/@hansgarage1751/videos

https://www.facebook.com/fbhansgarage/videos

Not intending to take traffic from our host, it's more about being easier (less keyboard entries).

I will keep this thread open for pressing questions to and from the experts here.

Thanks Gentlemen!

[The Glademister]

For those not wanting to watch my crappy videos, occasional updates...

Figured out the two rectangular holes cut in the front pan were for an aftermarket AC. There were hoses run down the PS long for that.

PS outer long has some rust where it bends up in the rear fender. Some rust below the front door opening where someone cut holes for those AC hoses.

DS outer long looks really good.

Both the DS and PS rear floor pans will have to be replaced. The inner firewall has rust where that joins the pans. One rust hole on the lower PS bulkhead near the door. Otherwise the bulkhead is good.

The engine has an EC engine code which IDs as a '74 1800cc. This car has 12/75 build date. Would they have put that engine in or is that a swap?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The EC engines were also used in the 75 1.8s. Manufacture of 12/75 is late for a 75 model year; does the VIN start with 475 or 476? 476 would mean this is a 76, not a 75.

The 2.0 badge on the back disagrees with the motor. One of the two has been swapped.

--DD

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

The EC engines were also used in the 75 1.8s. Manufacture of 12/75 is late for a 75 model year; does the VIN start with 475 or 476? 476 would mean this is a 76, not a 75.

The 2.0 badge on the back disagrees with the motor. One of the two has been swapped.

--DD

Thanks Dave.

That's a typo on DOM actually 10/74. Photos of VIN plate, Karman plate and engine code attached. Definitely an engine swap unless a PO changed the badge.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

OK, 10/74 is definitely within the typical window for a 1975 model-year 914. 39793 seems like it might be late enough to be in the 75 model year, but Dave Pateman would know better about that than I.

Yeah, a quick Google search tells me that the first 1.8 in the 75 model year would be about EC037550, so yours should have come from a 75 originally.

--DD

[The Glademister]

Thanks for that search. If the engine is original and the badge changed (definitely been resprayed at least once) that's fine. All the full injection and ECU are missing but that wouldn't tell as the 1.8 & 2.0 shared the same types.

I tested the electrical yesterday and that's promising. Head lights flip up (one is out), most of the tail lights and markers work. Fuel gauge appears functional. Fuel pump is really noisey (aftermarket) but pushing some fuel to the single barrel Holley. The starter needs rebuild.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Actually, the 1.8 and 2.0 had very different fuel injection systems. The 2.0 had the same D-Jetronic system that the 1.7 and earlier 2.0s used, while the 1.8 ran the L-Jetronic system. It was similar, but definitely not the same.

--DD

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

Actually, the 1.8 and 2.0 had very different fuel injection systems. The 2.0 had the same D-Jetronic system that the 1.7 and earlier 2.0s used, while the 1.8 ran the L-Jetronic system. It was similar, but definitely not the same.

--DD

Thanks Dave. I obviously got the 1.7 and 1.8 confused.

What carb setup would you recommend on a 1.8?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

If you have to run carbs, duals are the only way to go. The single-carb setup is crap.

The standard for years has been dual Weber 40s. If you can find real Dell'Orto 36es, those are apparently even better when in good shape.

--DD

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

If you have to run carbs, duals are the only way to go. The single-carb setup is crap.

The standard for years has been dual Weber 40s. If you can find real Dell'Orto 36es, those are apparently even better when in good shape.

--DD

Agreed. The first 914 build I did was a 2056cc with dual Weber 44s, larger intake valves and Webcam. I think the dual 40s will provide sufficient fuel/air for the smaller displacement.

[930cabman]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

If you have to run carbs, duals are the only way to go. The single-carb setup is crap.

The standard for years has been dual Weber 40s. If you can find real Dell'Orto 36es, those are apparently even better when in good shape.

--DD

I have heard/read about the single center mounted carb setup, but I purchased a decent 1975 1.8 a year ago with this setup, and liked it. Fast idle, ran good and economical. I since changed things out to a 2056 with twin Weber 40's and she has a bit more kick and doesn't burn oil.