f/I yanked off installing carb

[7T7911s]

Picked up a car that had been sitting for the last 9 years due to
"running issues" It would start and drive then die and need to be
towed home. I've pulled the motor and trans to get to the rust repair.
I've chased F/I demons in the past and decided to go with a carb.


Will I need to change anything else?

Distributor or coil ??

Thanks
I'll post detailed shots of the rust repairs as they come along.


Kenny

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

First: The single-carb setup for the 914 sucks rocks. Really and truly. Go with duals, they can actually be set up correctly. Getting the linkage working well can be a challenge. I've seen a couple of setups that use cables the whole way which look pretty cool. The center bellcrank setup has fans, and the cross-bar also does. But there are good and bad versions of each of those linkages--plus the cable ones are not for sale commercially yet, the ones I have seen were home-brewed.

You will need to change the fuel pump, the stock one puts out 50 PSI and cannot safely be choked down to the 3-5 PSI that the carbs need.

You can keep the stock coil and the stock distributor. You will get a little more "oomph" out of the motor if you change to a good aftermarket distributor like the Mallory. You will also get more "oomph" if you change out the cam, but that means you're tearing the whole motor apart and doing a rebuild.

--DD

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

I agree with Dave here. The single carb setup is the hands down WORST thing you can do to the car.

To properly carb a 914 involves changing the cam, dual carbs (Weber or Del'Lorto), a re-curved distributor, new coil, fuel pump and linkage. Even then, don't expect to get decent mileage out of it.

What was wrong with the car before you ditched the F.I.? 1.7, 1.8 or 2.0? The F.I. really isnt that difficult to figure out with a little patience.

[SirAndy]

Originally Posted by Jared at Pelican Parts

The F.I. really isnt that difficult to figure out with a little patience.

I agree ...

[Rmally]

What exactly is wrong with a single carb setup?

We diagnosed my problems and they are of course the FI system which is all original and needing attention. PO's have rigged wiring, electrical, etc making it a mess.

Several local Porsche guys here suggest the single carb setup over the dual in terms of reliability and ease. Are you saying the single runs bad or just reduces HP and mileage.

I was told a single DGV Weber with a manifold kit and universal fuel pump would produce a problem free running 914.

I'm with Kenny in that I'm ready to yank this FI off so I can actually drive the car.

Hope I didn't thread jack, but I'm going through the same situation.

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by Rmally

What exactly is wrong with a single carb setup?
.

The Weber 32/36 was used on the Ford Pinto, BMW 2002, etc.. inline fours with cams, timing and manifolds matched to the characteristics of the carb.

The intake manifold used on the 914 with this carb really doesnt lend itself to equal fuel distribution between cylinders. You'll also have problems with fuel pooling up in spots, mixture drop-off and idle problems.

At the end of the day, the correct way to carb a 914 is with dual two barrels, a cam and distributor (not an 009) meant to work with the carbs and a lot of playing around with the jetting.

Honestly, 914 EFI is NOT hard to figure out.

[7T7911s]

I ran one of the weber 32/36 setup on a fully built Samurai (2.6 with high lift cam) tri y header.
I loved how it ran and was very easy to tune. I am looking for a short term (realistically less than 2 years) just to have the car up and running. I plan on placing my 2.7 from the 911 into it when I can afford the 3.2 I want.
The wiring harness looked like a rats nest. Really every wire is White (???) Sure makes it easy to trace problems. If not the single Weber is there a reasonably priced dual set up??

Kenny

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Yes, every wire in the FI harness is white. They have printed-on numbers near the ECU connector; I am not sure about anywhere else. You can get "rebuilt" (actually 95%+ new) FI harnesses here:
Replacement Porsche 914 Wiring Harnesses

Remember that short-term band-aids tend to become long-term fixes. That's probably how your original system got into such sad shape, one "short-term" fix at a time.

--DD

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by 7T7911s

I ran one of the weber 32/36 setup on a fully built Samurai (2.6 with high lift cam) tri y header.
I loved how it ran and was very easy to tune. I am looking for a short term (realistically less than 2 years) just to have the car up and running. I plan on placing my 2.7 from the 911 into it when I can afford the 3.2 I want.
The wiring harness looked like a rats nest. Really every wire is White (???) Sure makes it easy to trace problems. If not the single Weber is there a reasonably priced dual set up??

Kenny

A Samurai also doesnt have the joke of an intake manifold used on a flat four for the 32/36.

Once you've driven a type 4 with a good set of duals and the right cam, you'll understand what I'm talking about. The Weber 32/36 will NOT work right on the Type 4. You might look into a set of dual Weber 34ICT carbs, but honestly, duals are the only way to really do it right. I still say fix the fuel injection. You won't have to worry about jetting or mixture.

Every wire in the fuel injection harness is indeed white. All you need to do is unplug the harness from the computer and check each wire for continuity.

Look, before you go wasting your money on a carb that will make your engine run worse, why don't you tell me what year and engine you have and describe some of the fuel injection problems.

[7T7911s]

I cancelled the order for the single and got the dual 40s.
Ok they look better anyway and the chrome air cleaner has got
to be worth at least another .00005 HP (chrome has less resistance than
plastic) plus I will be able to see myself smiling everytime I drop something
into that black hole of a engine compartment.


I'll post some shots of it going together.


Kenny

[7T7911s]

Remember that short-term band-aids tend to become long-term fixes. That's probably how your original system got into such sad shape, one "short-term" fix at a time.




Dave; That's how I ended up with three kids and the current economy.


Kenny

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by 7T7911s

I cancelled the order for the single and got the dual 40s.
Ok they look better anyway and the chrome air cleaner has got
to be worth at least another .00005 HP (chrome has less resistance than
plastic) plus I will be able to see myself smiling everytime I drop something
into that black hole of a engine compartment.


I'll post some shots of it going together.


Kenny

What engine are they going on? What kit are you using? The next step is to address the ignition. DO NOT use an 009 distributor.

[7T7911s]

72 with 1.7

I went with the new Weber 44 IDF kit. all hardware, filters and linkages included.

I will need some advise on the Distribitor, if the stock one will not work.
I will order a new fuel pump from Pelican with all new lines.

Kenny

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by 7T7911s

72 with 1.7

I went with the new Weber 44 IDF kit. all hardware, filters and linkages included.

I will need some advise on the Distribitor, if the stock one will not work.
I will order a new fuel pump from Pelican with all new lines.

Kenny

44's are WAY too big for the 1.7L. You'll need smaller venturis at the very least and jet them WAY down. You'll need to change the cam to make those work right.

I would have gone with 40's personally, but this gives you an excuse to build a 2L

Ignition wise, you can use the stock distributor, but the curve won't be right. Ideally, you would use the Mallory designed for the Type 4, but a 914 1.8L unit will be the closest.

[Joe Bob]

Similar thread going on on the World board.....when the damnthing will load....anyways, the single Pinto/Weber 32/36/DGV carb will always run rich....then if you lean it out...goes lean and burns a hole in the piston.

They are good for boat anchors, if you weld 20 or so together. Duals are better, but with the flat FI cam, you don't gain any performance and lose MPG. A modern FI would be better.

Megasquirt is good, if you are a DIY kinda guy.

[7T7911s]

OK, so let's pretend that I have money to make these carbs work. (couldn't find the 40 so went with the 44) My only other choice seemed to be dual singles (empi clones)
So I will want to jet them down (what size?) When I do get around to building up
the motor vs dropping my 2.7 in. How big can I build a 4 and keep it as a daily driver?

thanks for all the advice guys.

Kenny

[Joe Bob]

Do a Google on Jake Raby and Massive Type IV engines. You can get a kit or buy his turn key engines.....CB Performance also does good engines.

[Joe Ricard]

What you are going to run into with 44IDF's is the smallest venturi you can get is a 36mm . what you will experience is very slow air speed at idle and this will produce very huge headaches on your part to get the thing to idle. Low air speed at idle will not draw enough fuel out of the idle jets. which causes you to run a bigger jet. But as soon as you get up to speed 3000 RPM on the road in 5th gear = 65 ish MPH the motor will be so rich on the idle circuit it will suck gas and run like crap. Untill you finally get the the main gas jet above 3600 RPM = 80 MPH where you will be having fun till the blue light appear in you mirror. Your 1.7L will be all out of steam by then anyway so out running the cops is not going to happen.

Not a carb expert but I do know enough from my past experience. I love carbs by the way and have built several hopped up motors using them.

[johnnywishbone]

yanked off installing carb

so you installed the carb with one hand?

[7T7911s]

yanked off installing carb

so you installed the carb with one hand?
__________________
porsche930beast@live.com


Since it's only 1/2 a Porsche, I only needed the one hand.

Kenny