FG Flare Install

DSPTurtle · 01-11-2003, 03:30 PM

I began the install on my flares today. I have never done anything with fiberglass before so this is a real learning experience for me. I cut away most of the excess metal but left a little bit extra. Instead of trimming it off, I cut it into flaps and was thinking that I could glass them in on the underside of the flare. Does anyone have an opinion on doing it this way? Here is what I am talking about...

Here is how they are fitting so far... tomorrow I will epoxy them on than work on doing the glass "fitting."

Va914 · 01-11-2003, 04:09 PM

That is how I attached my flares. The only thing I did a little different was I removed all of the paint and primer from the bonding areas before cutting the "flaps" into the metal.

Best of luck and keep us posted.

Kerry

DSPTurtle · 01-11-2003, 05:04 PM

Kerry,
I actually realized that as I was posting the pic. I said to myself, "Self, you just made it real hard to strip that paint...you idiot!" Well, I went back into the garage for my punishment. Luckily my grinder with a cup brush was able to take it all off. I still have three more of these to do, so I will chalk that up to a lesson learned.
I did a little more thinking on this though... if the flare ever cracks and I need to remove it and reinstall a new one, won't this "extra" attachment require a lot more work? I would like to keep these things somewhat modular in case i ever do have to repair one... or am I just being overly idiotic?
Thanks
JB

chrisreale · 01-11-2003, 05:06 PM

Looks good DPS. Id like to see more pics of the steps you chose to take during this process, if possible.

Va914 · 01-11-2003, 05:58 PM

If you are using a good epoxy, you will not want to remove the whole flare. It would be very ugly.
If you have cracks or damage I think the course of action is to repair it on the car like you would on a corvette. But lets hope we both don't have any flare damage

Another tip is to also grind the back side of the fender while the flare is off.

Kerry

J P Stein · 01-11-2003, 07:14 PM

Heh,heh..............

I'd say you're committed to *something*. "Oh lordy, what have I done?"
I know that feeling.
Kinda gets the sweat rolling down the crack of your a**, don't it?

Zeke · 01-11-2003, 07:21 PM

Looks good so far, the flaps are a good idea. You can use epoxy on the underside and in between the back of the flare and the metal if you want, but body filler (bondo) will work better over regular polyester resin. Lay your mat and/or cloth with resin on the outside seam of the flare and grind to shape when hard. Finsh with body filler and prime.

Another thing about epoxy is that it cures with heat whereas resin can be made to cure in cold temps with additional catalyst.

DSPTurtle · 01-11-2003, 07:45 PM

JP...I was right there at about 10am this morning after I made the first "trimming" cut. I thought to myself... Holy *****!!!! There is no turning back from here, keep cutting till you get it right or there is no metal left to cut (at least that way it would have been light enough to carry out to the curb for Mr Trashman). The sad part is how small my wheels are going to look under them big old fenders!!!

Rich Brennick · Rich Brennick's Garage

Ah, the moment of truth! The same thing went through my mind during the first cut!
After "the cut," I riveted the flare to the car with a slow cure epoxy sandwiched, ground down, then gorilla-haired the inner and outer joints; ground down again, standard body filler for smoothness, primer.
As for the new large wheel openings, just throw some money at her, that'll fix it!
Good Luck,
Rich

DSPTurtle · 01-12-2003, 06:44 AM

Rich, do you have any more pics??? I am looking to see how different people dealt with fitting the bumpers and the flares and the rockers (ie alignment, gaps, etc). I would love to see some more of your car and anyone else who has the 916-look. I did a search on the web and was surprised at how little there really was (i was able to go through all of it in one night) and only found about 18 "good" pictures.
Thanks
JB

Kevin Powers · 01-12-2003, 07:46 AM

do not forget to rust proof and seal/paint all those pie cuts before you put on the flairs. no need to give the tin worms an open door.

kevin

Zeke · 01-12-2003, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Kevin Powers
do not forget to rust proof and seal/paint all those pie cuts before you put on the flairs. no need to give the tin worms an open door.

kevin

I think where the bonding material goes, i.e., resin and glass fiber or epoxy, that should be bare, clean metal roughed up with 36 grit and washed down w/ acetone.

Kevin Powers · 01-12-2003, 08:40 AM

so if the metal has to be bare for bonding what kind of hoops do you have to jump through after the flair install to seal the bare metal?

DSPTurtle · 01-12-2003, 08:57 AM

I was just going to ask what type of rust proofing can I do without destroying the good bonding of bare metal? I was thinking of just spraying that rust converter stuff on the outside of the "pies" and leaving the backs clean. After I install the flares I was going to apply POR-15 liberally to everything inside of the wheel well.
So any past experiences with "rust proofing" for flare install?

(The article in the tech section really does not go into any of this, maybe we can record this discussion for posterity)

JB

mike mueller · 01-12-2003, 09:13 AM

YIKES !!!

I love that plate

Nice looking car....

Hey JB,

Did you have butterflys in your stomach as you made those cuts?
My first flare job had me pretty nervous as well, I didn't do the GT flares, but mine involved a lot of cutting and welding...

Rich Brennick · Rich Brennick's Garage

Here's a decent front bumper side gap pic. The BRG color doesn't help much. I'll try and scan some photos I have when I did this about three years ago.
If I remember, I did what you are doing...hung everything with tape, blocks of wood, broomsticks, etc. to get everything "just so." If the flare isn't placed right, then the rockers don't fit quite right. Had to do lots of "adjusting" of the glass (grinding off and repair) to get decent gaps. Would have loved to do steel flares, but you know the story...
Rich

Kevin Powers · 01-12-2003, 11:29 AM

so my next question is this. after installing, blending, and painting these fiberglas flares, what happens when you go the a-x and start flexing the body?

kevin

Rich Brennick · Rich Brennick's Garage

I've had zero problems romping around; and that's with a V8, chassis stiffening kit, hard rear springs/ torsion bars and front Weltmeister.
My only screw up during install on the first flare is I beat the inner metal of the cut fender up to meet with the glass- cracked the bond- didn't show up til later. I'll repair it this Spring. Others have faired great by not disturbing the initial bond.
Boy, I wish this site was around when I was muddling through this.
Regards, Rich

dave blackburn · 01-12-2003, 04:36 PM

I'm in the same boat. I am ready to start putting on my flares, but keep making excuses 'cause it looks like a PITA! Could you take some pics of where the flare attaches to the fender at the very bottom where the rocker pannel would be? Did you cut the metal fender or the flare to get a flat surface? Kinda cold here to be working in the garage now, but I hope to start attaching them within a month or so. I have not worked on my car for a month or so (big metal object in hands while -20c = no fun) and think I am having tool withdrawals. Oh well, spring will be here in 6 months....LOL, Dave

ein 6er · 01-12-2003, 05:00 PM

hey JB ..... i thought you were selling your 914?!? just couldn't do it could you?!? (-:

man ... looks like you're opening a real can of worm$!!

i haven't done it before .... but .... i've read that you need to have the flared rockers on and then register the flares to the rockers. got flared rockers?!? i have a set you can borrow to get the flares lined up.

if i can help you in any way let me know!!

doug