Winter Project Gone Wild? ...

[jjeffries]

Nice work Glenn. I don't build race cars but it pains me to see when they're done with no consideration for aesthetics. Your project instills confidence. And your crisp, clear motor photo will be good for me to look at as I get closer to that stage in my project, albeit mine won't have been "breathed-upon" (bad metaphor in this day and age) by Lindsay Racing.

Keep up the momentum, John

[DaddyGlenn]

Originally Posted by jjeffries

{snip} ... it pains me to see when they're done with no consideration for aesthetics. Your project instills confidence. ... {snip}

Thanks for noticing. I think the aesthetics are important and the best way to add a personal touch and a part of yourself.

[DaddyGlenn]

Made some progress today. I got most of the interior painted. Still have some areas in the rear of the car to finish, ... once I can get more paint.



Then I knocked out a couple simple jobs. I replaced the black track decals with gold.



I hosed up Summit Point. Gonna have to spend a few bucks to get a replacement. Then I replaced my old ball hitch with a receiver hitch. Looks much nicer and I feel the mounting is more secure.



Next up is paint on the roll cage and my GT Racing Dashboard should arrive on Monday.

[jjeffries]

I'm lookimg forward to your dashboard project. John

[DaddyGlenn]

Dashboard time!

The GT Racing dash arrived yesterday around lunch time. I had made templates of the gauges, switches and lights several weeks ago. So while finishing my last conference calls for the day, I cut them out and taped them to the bare dash. Then last evening, I made a partial template of the dashboard to determine where it needed to be cut to fit where the dash bar connects to the front hoop of the cage.



Then I laid the template on the dash and marked the cuts. After cutting and a few rounds of fitting and trimming, it sat where I wanted it to.



There are a couple places where I should have made round cuts instead of straight cuts. But we learn by doing, so that is what I'll do next time. You may also notice that the dash is a couple inches short on each side. If I were building this car for someone else, I'd take the time to section and extend the dash as well as make the straight cuts round. But I can live with it as it is.

Tonight, I continued work on the dash. The seat and steering wheel had to go back in temporarily. Then, while sitting in the seat, I repositioned the paper gauges, lights, etc.



Pay no attention to the cluttered garage that is way too small for the work I do in it.

There are basically three sections to the dash, right in front of the driver, the angled section immediately to the right and a section in front of the instructor/passenger.

Directly in front of me I have the Tach, Coolant Temp and Oil Pressure gauges along with the low oil pressure light. A shift light will be mounted on top of the dash.



Just to the right, I'll have the Oil Temp, Volt and Fuel gauges with indicator lights for low fuel, low oil level and Alt/Battery close to the gauges they are associated with. To the left of the gauges will be lights for turn signals and high beams (remember, I am keeping it marginally street legal for now).

To the right of the gauges is a space that will be used interchangeably for a gps speedometer or iPad mini running Harry's Lap Timer. Beneath that space, from left to right, is a covered ignition power switch with indicator light above, the starter switch, a toggle switch for the radiator fans (with indicator above) and another toggle switch with indicator to control power to the "accessories" (USB ports for the iPad mini, camera and an external GPS receiver). Finally, to the right of the switches will be an engine hour meter. From here on out everything will be tracked in hours, not miles.



And at the far right of the dashboard will be the electrical distribution pieces, two 8-position fuse panels and 5 relays.



But wait, there's more!

To the left of the dashboard, I will mount a second kill switch with a pull cord accessible from the outside. And a small switch panel will be fabricated to mount on the center tunnel, to the rear of the shifter, that will hold switches for turn signal, headlight, hi/lo beam and windshield wipers.

I still have to decide if I will paint the dashboard or give it a thin upholstery with vinyl. The vinyl would be brown to match the rest of the interior. But if I paint it, I'm torn between making it match the exterior and cage (Pastel Beige) or go with the brown. Decisions, decisions. Anyone have thoughts either way?

[azbanks]

I agree that the aesthetics are important and your work looks good.

I think brown with a bit of a matt finish to prevent glare would be a good option.

[911tracker85]

great work.... although I will be keeping the main gauges in place on my 911 build, will be adding some other gauges and switches. and a kill switch as you describe.

keep at it.

[jjeffries]

Excellent work and description thereof. John

[DaddyGlenn]

It has been a while so an update is in order. Unfortunately, my time has been dedicated to other priorities, so there is not a lot to report.

I got a couple more bits bolted on the motor, the catch can and wrapped exhaust manifolds. Also got the crank pulley and belts installed.



And finally got the cage painted.



If/When everything works out on the "other priorities" that have me distracted from this build, I'll share those results. I'm extremely excited about "it", to the point that I don't mind giving up some of the track days I had planned.

[jjeffries]

Very nice Glenn.

John

[DaddyGlenn]

Made a little more progress and learned a couple things in the process.

I loaded the dash with gauges, switches and lights. Then slipped it on for one last look to be sure I liked the layout.



Then all the gauges, switches and lights came back out and I put on my auto upholstery hat. 'Tis a hat that is new to me. This is where the learning came in.

I found some marine grade vinyl with a carbon fiber look. Figured I pull out the old portable sewing machine and stitch up a nice cover.

Things I learned:

• Sewing a straight line looks easier than it is (even when you have a line to follow)
• Sewing vinyl is not like sewing cloth
• If you screw up, you can't just rip out the seam and try again (the needle holes are forever and serve nicely for tearing on the dotted line.
• Even with the right needle, thread and settings, my machine just doesn't cut it.
• French seams are for the skilled, not me. Recognizing my limitations, I gave up that idea quickly.

So after a lot of testing on scraps and starting over a couple times, I got a cover I could use.

Carefully applying spray adhesive and working the cover into place one section at a time, I got it done.

Cut the holes in the vinyl, reinstall the gauges, switches and lights and Bam! a dash I can live with.





I still have a few details to clean up around the edges and where the cage comes through on each side. But I'm pretty satisfied with the results.

I'll hang on to the paper templates I made just in case.

[jjeffries]

Parallel universes. I was just gifted a highly cool old Singer machine; I want to learn how to use it to make my own replacement seat covers. I'm re-reading discseven's incredible thread on making his own full-grain leather covers. BUT, I know the learning curve will be steeper than the Matterhorn!
John

[PHillary]

Originally Posted by DaddyGlenn

Made a little more progress and learned a couple things in the process.

I loaded the dash with gauges, switches and lights. Then slipped it on for one last look to be sure I liked the layout.



Then all the gauges, switches and lights came back out and I put on my auto upholstery hat. 'Tis a hat that is new to me. This is where the learning came in.

I found some marine grade vinyl with a carbon fiber look. Figured I pull out the old portable sewing machine and stitch up a nice cover.

Things I learned:

• Sewing a straight line looks easier than it is (even when you have a line to follow)
• Sewing vinyl is not like sewing cloth
• If you screw up, you can't just rip out the seam and try again (the needle holes are forever and serve nicely for tearing on the dotted line.
• Even with the right needle, thread and settings, my machine just doesn't cut it.
• French seams are for the skilled, not me. Recognizing my limitations, I gave up that idea quickly.

So after a lot of testing on scraps and starting over a couple times, I got a cover I could use.

Carefully applying spray adhesive and working the cover into place one section at a time, I got it done.

Cut the holes in the vinyl, reinstall the gauges, switches and lights and Bam! a dash I can live with.





I still have a few details to clean up around the edges and where the cage comes through on each side. But I'm pretty satisfied with the results.

I'll hang on to the paper templates I made just in case.

Is that a Carbon Fiber Vinyl material???

[DaddyGlenn]

Originally Posted by jjeffries

Parallel universes. I was just gifted a highly cool old Singer machine; I want to learn how to use it to make my own replacement seat covers. I'm re-reading discseven's incredible thread on making his own full-grain leather covers. BUT, I know the learning curve will be steeper than the Matterhorn!
John

I've been watching your dash restoration. You have more patience than I. I'm sure your seat covers will be done right. Most of my challenges came from the way my machine move the material. The pro machines have a "walking foot" instead of the little saw teeth to move things along.

Originally Posted by PHillary

Is that a Carbon Fiber Vinyl material???

Yep, carbon fiber look. Found it on Amazon.

[DaddyGlenn]

Progress! Still many bits to bolt on, though.



And these just came back from WitchHunter Performance ...

[jjeffries]

Nice nice nice!
John

[kdjones2000]

Originally Posted by DaddyGlenn

...And finally got the cage painted.



If/When everything works out on the "other priorities" that have me distracted from this build, I'll share those results. I'm extremely excited about "it", to the point that I don't mind giving up some of the track days I had planned.

I just noticed that your diagonal main hoop support is not welded to the hoop itself, but to the base plate.

This is not going to pass inspection for Race in SCCA/NASA sanctioning bodies.

If it's just for playing around in HPDE / Time Trial, then you are good to go.

[DaddyGlenn]

Originally Posted by kdjones2000

I just noticed that your diagonal main hoop support is not welded to the hoop itself, but to the base plate.

This is not going to pass inspection for Race in SCCA/NASA sanctioning bodies.

If it's just for playing around in HPDE / Time Trial, then you are good to go.

It is a Hanksville Hotrods cage that is supposed to be legal for NASA, SCCA, PCA. But you got me nervous so I looked up the rules.

Legal for NASA - NASA CCR:
15.6.7 Diagonal Brace
One(1) diagonal brace should be used in the same plane as the main hoop. The diagonal should be one continuous path;meaning that it must conform to Diagrams 15.6.7a or 15.6.7b. Note-If the installation method from Diagram 15.6.7b is used, the builder should pay close attention to alignment.One end of the diagonal brace shall attach to the corner, or horizontal part of the main hoop above the driver’s head, within twelve (12) inches of the driver’s-side corner. The other end of the diagonal brace shall attach to the mounting plate (or to the main hoop as close to the mounting plate as practically possible) diagonally opposed to the driver’s head (passenger floor).

Legal for SCCA - SCCA GCR:
2. Main Hoop Bracing
a. Main hoops shall incorporate a diagonal brace. The brace shall either be in the plane of the main hoop, or extend from the top of one rear brace (described in 9.4.B.2.c) to the bottom of the opposite rear brace. Automobiles with mid mounted engines can have the lower mounting point attach to the frame of the automobile within six inches of the main hoop. In the case of braces in the plane of the main hoop, the brace must span at least 50% of the width of the main hoop, and at least 75% of the height of the main hoop as shown in figure 12.

Legal for PCA - PCA Club Racing Rules:
Roll Cages: The roll cage must be securely mounted with the mounting plates at the bottom of the hoops mounted directly to the floor and/or longitudinal members of the unibody and make metal to metal contact. Any padding, carpet, upholstery, etc. must be removed to satisfy this requirement. The mounting area of bolt‐in roll cage must be backed by a plate of a size equal to that of the upper mounting plate with a minimum thickness of 3/16”. Bolts must be grade 5 or higher. The roll cage must be full cockpit width, except as originally supplied by the factory for open race cars and have two fore/aft tubing braces. The braces must be mounted as near to the top of the main hoop as possible at an included angle of at least 30 degrees. Also, the assembly must contain a diagonal (left to right side) tubing brace from one upper side of the main hoop to a floor or unibody lower frame mounting point of a bar member on the other side to obtain the strength benefits of triangulation. Roll cage bar tubing in the Stock/Prepared Classes must remain within the passenger compartment. The removal of the door glass to facilitate side impact protection is allowed. Carbon fiber roll cages are not allowed.

[kdjones2000]

Here is the other part of NASA CCR's:

15.6.13:Mounting Points: The roll cage shall be mounted to the floor area, which includes rocker panels,of the car in six, seven, or eight points. The cage shall not go through the firewall. The seventh and eighth points must attach to the firewall or front fender wells. All cage attachment points must be mounted to plates, or a mounting box (plinth). Each required cage bar shall terminate on a plate with a 360 degree weld to the mounting plate, except as specified in Section 15.6.14.B. There shall be only one (1) mounting “point” per plate. This point is defined as where the “required tube” mounts. All additional tubes mounted to that plate must be mounted as close to the required tube.

15.6.14.B: Tube / Mounting Plate Specifications: Any number of tubes may attach to a plate so long as they are touching each other at the plate. There may be a small gap between tubes to allow welding 360 degrees around each tube. If there is no gap between the tubes, they must be welded around the base as much as possible to form a single figure-eight weld, AND the tubes must be welded to each other for two (2) inches up from the base plate.

I guess that you are close to the 2 inch rule, and if it's a Hanksville Cage, you should be good.

[DaddyGlenn]

Originally Posted by kdjones2000

Here is the other part of NASA CCR's:

15.6.13:Mounting Points: The roll cage shall be mounted to the floor area, which includes rocker panels,of the car in six, seven, or eight points. The cage shall not go through the firewall. The seventh and eighth points must attach to the firewall or front fender wells. All cage attachment points must be mounted to plates, or a mounting box (plinth). Each required cage bar shall terminate on a plate with a 360 degree weld to the mounting plate, except as specified in Section 15.6.14.B. There shall be only one (1) mounting “point” per plate. This point is defined as where the “required tube” mounts. All additional tubes mounted to that plate must be mounted as close to the required tube.

15.6.14.B: Tube / Mounting Plate Specifications: Any number of tubes may attach to a plate so long as they are touching each other at the plate. There may be a small gap between tubes to allow welding 360 degrees around each tube. If there is no gap between the tubes, they must be welded around the base as much as possible to form a single figure-eight weld, AND the tubes must be welded to each other for two (2) inches up from the base plate.

I guess that you are close to the 2 inch rule, and if it's a Hanksville Cage, you should be good.

Thanks for the additional info. I did not see that in my quick review.