87 944 NA Starter Solenoid Signal - No connection pins 50 to 4 - Page 2

ballysdad · 07-17-2009, 07:09 PM

Yes but it goes to green neg side. The black + gets powered by ignition pin 15. I am not sure if 12v has to be present first at black go across the coil to green and back to ecu. SO I would put 12v to the coil from the battery to black + on the coil and check the green to ground and see if it goes across the coil. If it does check pin #1 and see if you get 12v there.

memoriter · 07:03 PM

This evening, I powered the coil directly from the positive terminal on the battery, and ran a new jumper wire from PIN 1 on the DME connector to the negative on the coil. I made sure the distributor was completely clean.

I got a spark, but injectors didn't fire. I'm guessing they may be clogged, at this point.

Anyway, I used a bit of spray starting fluid in front of the air meter, and the car actually fired up for the first time and ran for a few seconds - very smoothly. I let it die off and tried to start again, thinking maybe the injectors had kicked in somehow, but it refused to start without the starting fluid.

A few minutes later, while trying to start again, there was a backfire out the intake - blowing the intake boot off from in front of the airflow meter. Just lovely.

I mean, I'm no moron. I know the meaning of the phrase, "too much." I also know how to deal with problems gently and with precision. I've dealt with some very annoying issues, including the mass of melted wiring in my E30, but this car has been a curse. It's been one idiotic incident after another, and I'm ready to scrap it out of frustration, among other reasons.

Despite this, it did start up and run for a couple seconds, so I'm guessing the problem remains with fuel delivery into the cylinders. If the delightful backfire didn't damage anything crucial (which, knowing my luck, it probably did), I could probably remove the fuel rail and somehow give the injectors a cleaning - or swap them out with known good ones sometime.

Anyone else have any ideas? Could it still be the electrical portion of the ignition switch if I have power to the injectors, but they don't do anything - even with proper spark?

Grandad#3 · 07-18-2009, 10:25 PM

Check my post #11 on this thread. Change out the ignition switch modual. The easy way to change it is to buy a cheap short stubby common screw driver. Break off the handle and use a small pair of long nose vise grips to turn the short shaft and break the screw loose. You need this for the screw next to the steering column as there is hardly any room. I had removed the instrument cluster, steering wheel, etc. and tried everything before getting the idea about the stubby screw driver. I am saveing you hours here in order to remove and replace the switch the easy way. What do you have to lose?
Cheers,
Larry

ballysdad · 02:29 PM

Injector pulse signal is on pin 14(gray)for 3 and 4 and pin 15 (gray/black) for 1 and 2 at the dme. Are you getting 12v on both side of the injectors or is one side 0v and the other 12v. You need a $4 noid light to verify that the injectors are actually firing and not just getting 12v constant. There has to be a problem with the 14 pin harness that is after the ecu in the engine compartment. I do not have a 87 so I do not know the location but you need to find it. I think the ground loop from the - side of the coil and the source voltage from pin 15 of the ignition switch cannot pass correct voltage through this harness. After jumping everything around it you get it to work BUT if there is a problem with injector pulse guess where that passes through as well...

memoriter · 07-22-2009, 08:03 PM

Sorry for the delay, but ... I was getting 12 volts on both sides of the injector connectors when the switch is in the ON position.

I have a test light for electrical components that lights up if there is a proper circuit. It's simply a series of LED's that light once a circuit is created with the connectors. Would that be suitable to test for an injector pulse (or is that what you mean by a noid light)?

I'm guessing the computer fires the injectors by modulating one side of the connector's power to ground - much like how the coil is fired?

memoriter · 07-31-2009, 06:38 AM

I just wanted to let everyone know that I'm still alive, and that I'm sorry (again) for the delay. I work seven days a week with two jobs, so I often have difficulties finding free time to live.

I'll get back to the car once I have a chance.

Thanks,

ballysdad · 07-31-2009, 05:53 PM

I can't wait to hear what the problem is! The suspense is killing me.

memoriter · 08-01-2009, 05:53 PM

I had free time this afternoon, so I decided to tinker with the car a bit more.

I used my test light on the injector plug while I had someone crank the car, and sure enough, I had a pulsing light. So, apparently, the injectors are receiving the signal to pulse, but they aren't acting on it.

I'm thinking they're completely clogged, or just dead.

I took the fuel rail off and pulled the injectors out. I saw one had a missing nozzle hat (it's possible it was pulled off, or fell off in pieces when I popped the injectors up - no biggie, since I intend to replace), another had a bad o-ring, and the inlets where the injectors go into the intake manifold were as filthy as filthy could be.

I'm going to give cleaning these injectors a shot, following the technical article, here on Pelican Parts. If I can get fuel to the cylinders, then I can just worry about that broken coil circuit.

I'm headed back to work early tomorrow morning, so I'll have to do all that once I find more time.