water pump job with lots of WYIT extras

Wavey D · Wavey D's Garage

My $1200 87 NA, the day I saved it in March of 08. After spending a few
grand at a local shop, replacing some items from a parts car, and buying a new set of Bridgestone G009s, I was off and running. I spent the next couple of years putting 15k miles on her and learning how to drive a p-car. Over that time I only had to replace the thermostat, then later the thermo swith, and later the fuel lines. Not too bad for a 23 year old car. But then, there appeared a leak under the water pump.

Called the shop and they said $1200 for new belts and water pump job. So, I starting shopping for some tools and reading up on the job. I settled on the Maxi 944 kit from Arnnworx. Bruce at Arnnworx also hooked me up with a kricket tool for my other belts. Thank you Bruce!

I got all my tools together and rolled up my sleeves. This would be the biggest project I've attempted thus far. I followed Clark's advice and tore into it. And then:

Holy oil leaks Batman!

The seals around the balance shafts were good as I had those replaced in March 08, but the crank seal, oil pump drive gear and o-ring were suspect. And, looks like the AOS seals need replacement.

Looks like the intake has to come off.

How about some oil in the intake?

I have lots more to post, but the wife is calling and I have to go. Stay tuned for more. Also, I ask for your patience as I haven't posted much and I'm still learning. Thanks.

John_AZ · 08-22-2010, 04:22 PM

WOW!

AOS defective seals will cause oil to be sucked into the Throttle Body. Clean out the Throttle Body and the ICV/ISV with Gumout Throttle Body and Fuel Injection cleaner. NOT Gumout Carburator Cleaner.

You could rebuild the Throttle Body WYAIT with the kit from Bruce Arnn Home

Yes the lower crank seal, "O" ring need to be replaced. If the oil pump drive gear has a seal groove---------------replace.

You'll be done in no time

GL
John

HondaDustR · 08-23-2010, 01:49 PM

Uhgg! But fixing oil leaks is one of the most satisfying jobs there is in my book. A toothbrush and lots of engine brite will take care of that mess pretty well.

matty89 · matty89's Garage

cn you guy point out what tha AOs Oring is plz ?

Cocacolakidd · Cocacolakidd's Garage

The "AOS" is the air oil separator - that black thing with the yellow top, you pour the oil into it when you are a quart down. There are two O'rings attaching it to the block, one upper and one lower, they are different and two different part numbers are needed for these. When these seals are gone/leaking it sucks the oil into the intake often.

John_AZ · 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matty89

cn you guy point out what tha AOs Oring is plz ?

matty89,

Here is a picture. It is the oil fill tube. Pelican sells the top and bottom seals, numbers 43 and 15.

You need to get ONE top "O" ring and ONE bottom "O" ring for a TOTAL of TWO. (Pelican catalog is confusing)

Porsche 924S/944/968 Oil Circulation - Page 2

GL
John

John_AZ · 08-23-2010, 03:56 PM

matty89

The engine number is stamped to the right of the oil fill tube (AOS) on a tab between the bellhousing and block.

GL

John

matty89 · matty89's Garage

thnx john i dont have oil in the intake does the orings come with the head gasket set or the lower crank set ?

John_AZ · 08-24-2010, 08:37 AM

No, the AOS "O" rings are bought separately.

The intake manifold has to come off to replace the AOS "O" rings. Since yours is off now with the head, it just makes sense to do it on a 25 year old car. You may not have oil in the intake now, but what about next year in Canada?

Moving on, check the heater control valve at the rear of the car. Do you see any white calcium deposits on the valve? If you do, replace the valve and short "J" hose above. If you do not replace the heater valve, it will drip on the clutch and this is not good.

GL
John

matty89 · matty89's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by John_AZ

No, the AOS "O" rings are bought separately.

The intake manifold has to come off to replace the AOS "O" rings. Since yours is off now with the head, it just makes sense to do it on a 25 year old car. You may not have oil in the intake now, but what about next year in Canada?

Moving on, check the heater control valve at the rear of the car. Do you see any white calcium deposits on the valve? If you do, replace the valve and short "J" hose above. If you do not replace the heater valve, it will drip on the clutch and this is not good.

GL
John

i had some calcium or corrosion on my Cylinder head im getting it welded and straitend is that what ur talking about ?

John_AZ · 08-24-2010, 08:54 AM

No, You will see on the firewall your heater hoses and the heater control valve with a cable in front of the drivers side.
There is a lever that opens and closes the coolant to the inside heater core.
Do not lose the cable clip!
If you see white deposits on the valve, lever or pivot (like my old one)---replace.

GL
John

Wavey D · Wavey D's Garage

Making progress. Cleaned up the throttle body.

Pump came off fairly easily.

New AOS seals.

Intake off. Cleaned out all vacuum hoses to the ISC valve with some throttle body cleaner. Ran some wd-40 throught it.

Crank seal was leaking. So, I replaced the oil pump drive gear, the seal, and the o-ring. The drive gear had some visible wear, but I wouldn't say it was a groove. Anyone like the Gulp jar I used to install the seal? It worked great. Oops, gott go for now.

John_AZ · 08-25-2010, 06:05 PM

Nice work. Quite a difference from the top photos.
John

Paul Stewart · 08-25-2010, 08:13 PM

While the intake manifold is off, clean the engine grounds.

Wavey D · Wavey D's Garage

Thanks for all the encouragement and suggestions. Wow, Paul Stewart! That's some serious corrosion. Lucky I'm in the ATL. NO salty roads. Anyway. Making progress. The water pump went on with only a minor problem. After cleaning up the area, and using some sealant on the gasket, I hand tightened all the nuts and bolts. I let it set for 24 hours and tried to torque it all down. 6 foot/pounds doesn't seem like much until you start torquing on a 10 mm bolt in AL. Low and behold one bolt won't take any torque. I decided to just hand tighten everything rather than trying to reach 6 ft/lbs. I was going to fix it by gluing in a stud to replace the stripped hole. I thought, let's try the old bolt for kicks. I'd put them on a piece of card board with an outline of the pump, so I knew which bolt went where. I couldn't believe my luck. It took a few ft/lbs and I considered myself lucky.

And then, I find a broken balance shaft housing bolt. The one that holds the bearing. In the photo the broken bolt is removed and the hole is open. The bolt broke off at the threads..

Luckily, I was able to use a 7/64 drill bit and a #2 extractor to get it out. I agonized about it for a week before I did the job. It came out very easily. I screamed out load "praise the lord." I'm not religious.
Off to start putting it all back together. I'll need some good luck. I'm trying to add a photo of the area of the previously broken bolt.
[img]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads18/oh+****+broken+balance+shaf1283004289.jpg[/img]

HondaDustR · 08-28-2010, 07:25 AM

I HATE water pump bolts. They always feel like they're about to strip out. I think next waterpump job I'm just going to nip it in the bud and buy a bunch of helicoils and re-thread them all. Bolts that small just won't hold much in aluminum, especially once the threads have corroded a couple times. Someone here converted to all studs successfully. The studs work fine.

John_AZ · 08-28-2010, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wavey D

What is that blue thing you have installed for an oil filter?

Wavey D · Wavey D's Garage

John, I was hoping you dind't see that. It's a cheap filter I used as a temporary measure. I have the proper Mahle filter and VR-1 20w-50 ready to go when I finish putting it all back together. The filter is supposed to have an anti-back-drain valve, but I agree it's probably crap. Hopefully, I didn't do too much damage with it.