timing belt/water pump job

jagar · jagar's Garage

Hi everyone...I've recently experienced the frustration of the timing belt going out on my 87 944 na. I think I've found the best prices on all of the parts required to fix this and am about to embark with an experienced friend to do this job. For those of you out there who have replaced the timing/balance shaft belts, as well as the water pump and intake/exhaust valves; I would appeciate any tips you may have learned on your job to make mine easier. No matter how simple you think it was I'd appreciate the input. Looking forward to seeing your posts.

Lawrence Coppari · 05-21-2002, 04:49 AM

Do my belts every year. Did my water pump last year. I put a sealant on the water pump bolts to keep coolant off the threads. If coolant gets on them where they mate with aluminum block, they can seize.

I used a gasket sealant on pump gasket to position it properly.
Replace thermostat and position snap ring so you can get it out with pump on vehicle if need be.

You might think about replacing rollers for belts.

I take the distributor off in one piece (3-10 mm bolts) rather than messing around with the cap. I find it difficult to get cap back on.

Be careful positioning the balance shaft belt. More than once I have had it slip a cog on me and have had to do the job twice.

Assuming you are going to remove the valve train, don't get the lifters mixed up. Some will want to fall out when you lift the cam housing.

Patience, patience, patience.

timsirk · 05-21-2002, 08:34 PM

I'm starting to do belts and a head gasket right now, which is the first time i've did anything major to the car (or really anything besides a motorcycle)...

be careful not to strip any of those allenheads on the valve cover, and watch out for the head nuts falling down the oil passage (right beside of the stud). Probably not much help, but thats about all i've learned so far.

Tim

Joeblow944 · 05-21-2002, 09:23 PM

Hey what were the symptons when your belt went out? I think mines gone too but I haven't been able to get my Dad to take a look at the 944 yet hehe. Right now it makes an awful sounding straining noise when I turn the ignition to start it up and the idle is totally uneven. My dad listened to it, he's a mechanic but not a porsche mechanic, and said he thought he heard valve noise. It just happened all of a sudden when I started it up one day. Are there any possible things it could be besides the timing belt jumping?

Can anyone tell me what I need to do to check? I think I need to remove the airbox and stuff, take off cover (and distributor it looks like too). Then how do check to see if the timing did indeed jump? Having trouble finding TDC too hehe. Doing this myself for now. Thanks =)

jagar · jagar's Garage

When mine went out, I was accelerating to around 6000 rpms, all of the sudden got a lot of vibration in the pedal. Car went for about another 1/2 mile before just shutting off and wouldn't start. I can't say how usefull the advertisements in Excellence magazine have been so far for getting good prices. So my symptoms were pretty different from yours. For those of you that have done it before...I was told that the timing belt tensioner isn't usually replaced, just a bearing that goes within (this is that $200 dollar part) does that sound like normal to everyone? Do the kits people advertise usually have everything as far as the timing/balance shaft belts go? Thanks for all the imputs so far

ae1969 · 05-22-2002, 01:47 PM

the only advice I can give you is patience.

You will run into a few obstacles but none that can't be overcome.

Once you have her all back together....turn her over by hand and you will easily notice if you did something wrong.....

Since you have her all apart, change the oilcooler seals, waterpump and every little gasket and hose you can get your hands on. Use new cheese head bolts.... and torque everything to spec!

If you take your time you should be fine.

Good luck

CrazySOB · 05-26-2002, 04:23 AM

I'm going through this belt change- my waterpump froze up- luckily my belt didn't snap, but it's damaged. so I ordered my stuff yesterday.

My questions: do you need to remove the fan assembly and radiator to make it easier to work? any special tools needed besides the tension guage? any other tips would be useful.

Thanks in advance, Steve

Lawrence Coppari · 05-26-2002, 04:44 AM

You do not have to remove the radiator or fans. There is plenty of room to do the job. Put the infamous snap ring and thermostat into the pump before mounting the pump. Leave the snap wring positioned so that you can get it out without removing the pump should you need to ever get the bugger out at a later date.

Be careful lining up the balance shafts. I have done it wrong more times than right only to get a high frequency vibration and have to redo it. I seem to screw this part up more than others do, however.

I put sealant on the water pump studs to keep coolant away from the threads. That way bolts will easily come out next time should there be a next time. Also use gasket cement to position the gasket while mounting the pump.

No special tools needed other then tension gauge.

I generally remove the distributor as one piece by removing the 3 10mm bolts. That way I don't have to put the cap back on with the thing in place.

Good luck. Think about how much dinero you are saving by doing it yourself.

CrazySOB · 05-26-2002, 04:54 AM

Thanks Lawrence !!!

timsirk · 05-26-2002, 09:14 AM

hey, do use the flywheel lock?? I didn't have it, so I fouled the wrench on the frame, and bumped the starter a few times...not sure if doing this can really destory anything, but it did take the nut off w/o buying the flywheel lock. It is more difficult to tighten the nut w/o the lock though.

Tim

Lawrence Coppari · 02:44 PM

Yep, forgot about the flywheel lock. Had to use a cheater bar to get nut loose on crank pulley. The tightening torque exceeded what my torque wrench would do so I got the old cheater bar out again and made it long enough to use my weight times moment arm to equal torque. I borrowed a flywheel lock.

Sorry I forgot about the lock in last post.

CrazySOB · 05-27-2002, 05:55 AM

So I need the fly wheel lock, to change the belts and waterpump?

I'm not going to change any seals or rollers.

Lawrence Coppari · 05-27-2002, 06:27 AM

It gives the crank a positive stop which is good for proper torquing. I'd rent one or borrow one if I were doing it. I think the torque on the pulley nut affects the oil pump.

3sonfather · 05-27-2002, 06:29 AM

Steve,
Yes, you'll have to take the fwb off to pull the crack gears so that the back of the timing belt cover can be removed. Also, you'll need to pull the balance shaft gears. Here, a spanner wrench is needed to lock the gears from spinning while the bolts are removed (don't remember the size). Make sure you spend an extra couple bucks and replace the thermostat and seal while you have the water pump in your hands. I also took the opertunity to fit-check and grind a 45 degree needle-nose to make future replacement of the thermostat easier.
Scott

CrazySOB · 05-27-2002, 06:30 AM

Will do.

Thanks again.

Lawrence Coppari · 05-27-2002, 11:58 AM

I was able to get the balance shaft pulleys off by holding them with a large pair of channel locks with a piece of leather in the jaws so the pulley would not be scratched. I held it with the channel locks while my wife used a breaker bar socket on the bolt.

You can make a tool by buying piece of flat steel at Lowes. Drill two holes and tap and install two bolts. Bolts can be inserted in the holes in the pulley.

CrazySOB · 06-09-2002, 06:30 AM

Well I got everything off except the crank pulley. I ordered the flywheel lock but I don't have it yet. So I went as far as I could.
I took out the fans for more room. Do I have to remove the starter for the flywheel lock?

Thanks Steve

Lawrence Coppari · 06-10-2002, 02:10 PM

Yes, the one I borrowed uses the same bolts that held the starter.

CrazySOB · 06-10-2002, 04:33 PM

Thanks, I thought so. But wasn't sure, since I don't have the tool yet.

Thanks, Steve