Emissions test before the TEST

[MPDano]

Not true Mike, at least in the El Cajon DMV, they would give you a "day" pass for free for any date you want OR you can pay your fees "registration," proof of insurance, then they will give you a month long "Red Square" for $50. The $50 part is new for 2009. Or.... Maybe the female DMV Agent just happen to like the tight Levis I was wearing that day

[MPDano]

I think I will revive this thread. I am still waiting for my Decel Valve hoses from 928 Intl, then I should be ready for my "Pre-Smog" test to see where I stand.

[Danglerb]

Is that the curved one that was squished?

[Danglerb]

Damn, thats the trouble, I was wearing my Baggies when I went to the DMV.



Guessing rules have changed in 2009.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Is that the curved one that was squished?

Nope, replaced that one last month. No, it's the 2 short hoses of different diameter that connect to the throttle body and Decel Valve. Mine, were brittle and snapped off when I tried to remove them. Could have been a big vac leak. Not sure until I get the new ones and the rough idle changes.

[Danglerb]

Those are just hoses, I cut off a couple pieces of breather hose for mine.

[MPDano]

I couldn't for the life of me put clamps on those 2 hoses. Is there that much importance to put clamps on? The hoses were pretty snug going on.

Also, idle didn't change, still rough. I am still looking at my vacuum line routing and it just doesn't seem as if the Diverter Vave should be getting vacuum all the time. According to a diagram posted here, the Diverter and Decel Valve run from a "T" that has vacuum all the time. Does this sound right? Can someone pull their Diverter valve hose and check if it's vacuuming all the time?

[Danglerb]

I used hex head clamps and a flex shaft driver made for clamps that are hard to get to. Also make sure you use a silicon spray that doesn't stay slippery.

What sort of manifold vacuum are you getting?

[MPDano]

Not really sure what your asking, but in a nutshell, engine running=vacuum, rev higher=vacuum, low idle=vacuum. I really don't know the difference in vacuum, except for one that might vacuum at higher rpms. Like I said, I am using the exact vacuum ports as was on a diagram posted here. I just don't think that the diverter valve should always working at any rpm range, which is now.

[MPDano]

..and this is what makes me think something is NOT right. I really need a K-Jet diagram for vacuum lines. I seem to be able to find only L-Jet.

[MPDano]

Then there this to add to more confusion. I don't think I have this many vacuum ports on the throttle body.

[rjm65]

Leo - that diagram is not for your car, you don't have EGR. This should be the one:

[MPDano]

I believe that this is the one I went off of. You see how it "T" to both Blow Off and Vacuum Control (Diverter and Decel). I will verify tomorrow if I have it in the Passenger side port.

[Danglerb]

What I meant was put a vacuum gauge on the line to the vacuum limiter and see what it shows. Idle value is important, and if hooked up correctly the vacuum should drop close to zero with the throttle barely open.

[MPDano]

Yup, that was it. I had the "T" vacuum hose connected to the far right instead of the middle port on throttle housing. A/F and Idle Screw was way off then, lots of adjusting and I got the idle back to normal. Took it for a quick run around the block, need to adjust a little bit more. Yessssssssssss!

Thanks for the correct vacuum diagram Raymond!

[rjm65]

Glad to help!

[Danglerb]

Amazing how fast things have gotten going on your car Leo. Congrats!

[MPDano]

Persistence. Hopefully I can complete the carpet and center console project this weekend. Oh, and yanking out the Pod again to get that connection correct.