calibrating the WUR?

[rjm65]

Originally Posted by morriss

Next, fully assembled WUR, mightyvac connected to bottom side vacuum port of WUR, pulled 15 in.Hg on the vac, car off, fuel pump bridged, set pressure to 2.1 (outside temp 87*).

Question: To set the cold control pressure, the WSM gives mightyvac readings as "340-420 mbar / 350-450mmHg). However, my mightyvac has "in.Hg" and "kpa." I figured mmHg stood for millimeters and "in.hg" stood for inches, so I did the conversion and it came out to 13.4 - 16.5 inches. I pulled 15 in.Hg on the mightyvac when setting the cold pressure on the WUR.
Am I right in assuming mmHg = millimeters and in.Hg = inches?

I think you have the vac conversion right, maybe MPDANO can do a quick verify as his super deluxe vacuum pump shows both inches and millimeters on the gauge.

Just want to make sure, when you set the cold control pressure to 2.1, you did it by tapping on the post up or down as required and not by turning the allen screw in or out right?

[JhwShark]

mmHG = millimeters of Mercury, pressure

[morriss]

Originally Posted by rjm65

I think you have the vac conversion right, maybe MPDANO can do a quick verify as his super deluxe vacuum pump shows both inches and millimeters on the gauge.

Just want to make sure, when you set the cold control pressure to 2.1, you did it by tapping on the post up or down as required and not by turning the allen screw in or out right?

Yes, tapping on the post and pulling vacuum at the bottom side vacuum port.

Are the settings the same for the U.S. model and ROW (4.7) model?

[rjm65]

Appears so. If you PM your email address I can send you a PDF of the charts.

[morriss]

Originally Posted by rjm65

Appears so. If you PM your email address I can send you a PDF of the charts.

PM sent.

It doesn't make sense; I set the warm control pressure at 3bar (engine off, fp bridged, no vacuum, and full WUR guts minus the heating element).
Next, I set the cold control pressure at 2.1 bar (full WUR, engine off, fp bridged, 15 in.HG vacuum on the bottom side port at 87* ambient temp.). It should start right up, right?

[DPW928]

Since you have changed the settings on the WUR your A/F ratio may be too far off to start the engine. Try resetting the warm control pressure with everything in and attached to the WUR. Make sure the system pressure is in spec. Turn the A/F mixture screw until it is half way between the lean and rich stops, then try starting the engine. If it doesn't start slowly adjust the mixture to rich or lean (check spark plugs) a 1/4 turn at a time, then retry to start . Once it starts the A/F mixture can be fine tuned.

[morriss]

Raymond and DPW were right, the A/F mixture was off. I got it to run, roughly and briefly, after messing with the 3mm screw. However, after trying to fine-tune the WUR again, I think I killed the WUR. Tapping the cold start post no longer has any effect on the pressure. I punched it in almost as far as it would go, and the gauge still read 5 bar, when it should have been down close to zero at that point. Looks like I will have to go with a rebuilt one now. Crap.

[rjm65]

Maybe some kind of blockage, cause sounds like your getting a system pressure reading there.

[morriss]

My warm control is set, but when I try to adjust the cold control by tapping the post, the gauge needle won't budge. Maybe I will disassemble the whole thing again and re-clean it, and use the air compressor to blow the inlet and outlets out again.

[rjm65]

Was there any change in reading when you open and closed the valve on the pressure gauge?

[bnoon]

Don't give up Morris, you're doing great! You've inspired me to dive further into my own WUR issues on my 924 turbo. I've still got a lot of tinkering to do to even get to your point since I've not got much time today to work on it, but I've got the pin drilled/tapped for good cold pressure and made one adjustment (the wrong way) to the warm settings... At least your WUR is a lot more accessible than mine is, mine's on the firewall side of the lower half of my intake manifold, under the coil/ground mounts. I've got the next 2.5 days to make this thing run right, hopefully that's enough!

[morriss]

Originally Posted by rjm65

Was there any change in reading when you open and closed the valve on the pressure gauge?

I have not closed the valve since I checked the system pressure a while back, which is on target. When I tried adjusting the A/F screw and got the car to run after making it WAY rich, I pulled the WUR apart again and removed the heating element to check the Warm control pressure, which 3 bar. I then put the heating element back in to check the Cold control pressure again, and that's when I noticed it was up near 5 bar. I knocked the pin in using a punch and hammer, and the gauge needle would jump around a little, but still settle back at 5 bar.
I pulled the WUR apart and pushed the pin until it was sticking 2mm out of the top to start all over again. Kept punching the pin in - still no change.
Did all that again this morning and got the same results.

I will put the WUR back on and check the system pressure again though, just to be sure.

[morriss]

System pressure = 71 psi; just checked it.

[morriss]

Well, just sent my WUR off to Special T Auto. $289.95 + $15 for his shipping, another $19 for me to ship it him. OUCH! I am supposed to be getting a rebuilt one in return.
I bet on a used one on e-bay (and was going to put my WUR parts in it if need be), but someone outbid me at the last second. Probably one of you guys.

[morriss]

Put the rebuilt WUR on today and got the car to start after adjusting the A/F 3mm allen screw. It runs rough though, real rough. I'm gonna revive a previous thread of mine about setting the timing. I need to know if I'm a tooth off.