There's always something..
 

Well, I got her running, and a couple days later my "Brake pr ( ! )" light comes on. I looked in the owners manual and the closest thing I can find is the "Brake Press" (brake pressure) light so I assume they're the same. So I checked the brake fluid and its fine, brakes work as good as ever, so I disconnected the battery and the light goes away. 20 minutes ago it starts flashing at me again! So anyway, what else should i check?

I have read online that the sensors on the master cylinder are pretty common to go out. How do i determine if they're bad? I think they're like $30 each (and i think there's two), so thats not too bad, but I hate wasting money only to have the light come back on.

My dad mentioned that the Master cylinder could be giving it up, how do i determine this?

Or it could just be a 30 year old car that likes flashing all the lights it can, but I'd prefer to prevent a brake problem rather than have them go out on the highway.

Thanks in advance! :)

P.S.
Anyone notice that the (major) problems seem to wait for other ones to be resolved before showing their heads, instead of piling up at once? Or is that just me? Advanced German engineering or coincidence?

Take a picture of the cluster so that someone here can verify what the warning light is for. I, for one, have no idea what warning indicator you are referencing.

It was hard to get a clear picture since its flashing, also the (!) Light/button on the center console is flashing toohttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357174458.jpg

Is it just me, or does the 928 have a beautiful instrument cluster? :) Y'know, if you can get past all the blinking red warning lights!

here is a link to the owners manuals you will find the meaning of the warning lights

Owner's Manual - Online - Rennlist Discussion Forums

Thanks MrMerlin, but I have already checked the manual and can't find the exact light.closest I can find is brake pressure.

Group A failure.
Brake circuit / pressure.
(this warning is discontinued after 83).
Requires battery disconnect to reset.
Indicates some sort of pressure related brake failure


Regarding sequential failures, yes.
Nested failures also.
Takes a deep dive and much proactive repair and replacement of failure prone parts, aka throwing parts at it, to restore one to reliability.

If you don't own the copy of morehouse CD sold by Roger, then either buy it or sell the car.
The layman descriptions of all these little nuances, model year by model year, are buried in that CD.

Ok, thanks Landseer, I'll check that out

Takes a deep dive and much proactive repair and replacement of failure prone parts, aka throwing parts at it, to restore one to reliability.
Well said Landseer. I'm just starting my parts throwing.

Landseer, Where can I get that?

Roger at 928rus.com I think has the CDs.

Pretty sure I had that same light come on, usually it means the differential pressure switch at the brake master isn't making a good electrical contact. Disconnect and reconnect the wire may fix it.

The "P" in PM is preventive, ie replacing parts on a still working basis using estimates of the known service life.

Thanks danglerb, I'm slowly learning that. By the time you finish replacing every part in the car, its time to start over. ;)

Hey, I feel your pain, US 83 and a rough but frisky Euro S 85, that very much want attention I can't give them at the moment, and are letting me know it.

MOST of what we face though isn't the need for unreasonable PM, its 30 years of neglect.

Within the 928 community we have a LOT of daily drivers, and moderately to extremely reliable cars, but most of them have a long history of good service.

The 928 does NOT like being parked outside. Its the worst thing for any electrical system, condensing humidity, that thing that happens to our cars every morning outside when all the metal parts are cold enough to have moisture condense on them.

If your brakes are as good as ever, why throw parts/$ at it????? If the car sat that could have something to do with pressure sensors being stuck. If you have good brakes i would keep an eye that there are no fluid leaks in the system and just drive...My older Brother Frank always said "there are Mechanics and there are parts replacers" He said this to me as i blew every paycheck on my '64 VW when i was 20.
It probably just needs to be driven and try a thorough bleeding..

I think I'll try disconnecting and reconnecting the brake pressure switches, replace them, and maybe bleed the brakes. If that doesn't fix it I'll just hope my brakes don't go out ;)

Can anyone post a link to the pressure switches? I can't find them anywhere.

After connecting a jumper to bypass my alarm system (thanks again Landseer), my warning light was gone. I started getting excited! until i realized i had disconnected my battery -.-


I will be working on figuring out this warning light after I get back in town, in between classes...

Guys, I'm no expert, but I've rescued 5.
Most were non runners.
3 sit outside in the weather in Indiana, 2 still in Virginia.
They are completely reliable as DD cars.
Each to his own strategy, but mine is working.
I've figured out where to spend and where not to spend.
I always rebuild the brake calipers.
So far never the master cyl.
All electrical sensors get replaced.
Lots and lots of electrical cleaning and wire tracing and repair.
Mainly sweat equity.

Thats what i need to learn!

Since you solved my last problem, what would you suggest I start with Landseer? Pressure switches?

Thank you danglerb! That helped.

I'd remove the brake pads and caliper bolts without cracking the brake lines and carefully get a good look at the caliper piston seals.
Look at the flexible lines too. If they all look good (not cracked) put everything back and bleed the system and drive the car. Brake lines swell on the inside with age, if they have not been replaced they should be.
Rebuilding calipers is always a good idea as Landseer said if within your ability.
But you did say it stops well..

Thanks the fixer, lll start narrowing things down this week (hopefully)

Camo, looking at your sig, 1982 Porsche 928-hellbronze metallic auto , did anybody ever check to see if its a Weissach? They were that body color with a two tone interior.

Danglerb, My interior is just ugly brown

So, I've noticed my car shifts a little hard, I'm thinking I should get the transmission checked. Is it pretty involved to check the fluid?

I have seen a few cases where the vac line was either missing or severed for the transmission modulator. Follow the metal vac line at the front of your intake to where it is fastened to the engine at the rear of the right cam tower. Check the condition of the rubber line that attaches to it. You can also adjust the modulator easily. Details are outlined in the WSM.

Checking the fluid is easy. The reservoir is mounted at the right of the transmission case. Kneel down in front of the right rear tire to see it. It is small, so it is easy to overlook as it is usually coated in grease. Here is a good guide for checking the fluid. The Nichols page is a great reference. Bookmark it for the future.

Thank you kiln_red! I'll check that tomorrow (hopefully)

Remember to have the car up in temp and running while checking the fluid. Make sure the car is level and have a piece of cloth ready to whipe the reservoir with :)

Hey, after doing some searching I am starting to wonder if I might have a Weissach. I doubt it but you never know.
I always thought that mine could do 0-62 faster than 8.5 seconds. If I understand correctly, the Weissach (how do you say that?) does 0-62 in 7.5 sec.
Anyway my interior is similar to this one.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358271947.jpg

I have the VIN but I dont know where to look it up. If anyone could help, VIN is:WP0JA0927CS821644

Like i said, I doubt it is, but it never hurts to check.

The Weissach was strickly a cosmetic option. The difference in acceleration may be 2 different tests, one of a manual and one an automatic.
http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/weissach.html

Oh ok. I just read that somewhere on the internet.

If you have pieces of the luggage with the car, it might be important.

No I don't have the luggage.. Also there's no crest on the dash.I noticed that's mentioned in the link dougm shared

How can I find out if it is a Weissach or not?

Camo,
There were only something like 205 Weissachs made. I believe that it has an option code. Email roger@928sRus. He has a couple of them and can run your VIN # to check.

Roger might know, 200 or so planned, but actually more than 250 going by vin I think found, maybe as high as 275. Option code is

M462 928 - Special Model 82 "WEISSACH" - Hellbronze Metallic w/Leather Medium Brown Int.

Great thanks guys!

Well there you go!! I knew there was an option code for it, but I didn't know the number. I figured one of the resident gurus would know and speak up.

So Camo, if your car has that option, then it is definitely a Weissach.

Thanks Danglerb.

I looked in my warranty manual and under optional equipment. The option number danglerb gave is not listed

According to Roger, I DO have a Weissach. I picked up a Weissach for $2,500 :D
Now if only I had the luggage...