Just quits running

[Dadddio]

Got an 86 5 speed.
Tried to start it and could not hear the fuel pump.
I jumped the relay and it started.
I put the relay back in and it started.
Drove fine ran good.
Next day same thing, jumped, pump ran, this time I swapped with the horn relay.
Drove it running good, then just quit.
Started right up.
Several miles later does it again.
Need some help.
Things I've done.....
Had LH and EZF refurbished, and MAF rebuilt by Rich at ERI.
New O2 sensor.
New crank positon sensor.
All help is appreciated.

[Mrmerlin]

replace the 3 running relays ,with new 53 relays.
3 relays are vital for the car to start -
fuel pump relay,
EZK relay,
LH relay.
The fuel pump relay is a common source of problems,
as it passes a high current to the fuel pump (and also the O2 sensor on later cars).

Replace the fuel pump fuse,
verify that the O2 sensor wires are correctly routed..


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CEQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jdsporsche.com%2Ffault%2520fi nd.html&ei=PcwMU57NJ4eMyAH7o4HADw&usg=AFQjCNG6KP07HDxxqkFn1PE6-UcFcSxyZA&bvm=bv.61725948,d.aWc

[syoo8]

Change the fuel pump if the above doesn't work. My fuel pump went bad and it exhibited the identical symptoms.

[Dadddio]

Will do Stan.
Hope not Scott, pump sounds good when jumped.
What do you mean about O2 wire routing?
One time the other day when I started it, it had trouble finding idle.
After it warms up, the idle is high......1200 RPM.
Could this possibly be ISV?
How about Temp II sensor?
Could either of these be the cause of my problems?

[syoo8]

My pump worked fine when jumped.... sometimes. It's such and easy fix, and plus at our cars' ages it is bound to fail sooner or later.

[Mrmerlin]

ISV is a wear item if yours has 60K miles on it,
it needs to be swapped out for a new part

[stepson]

All above from Stan are good ideas. I would add to clean your engine grounds, especially the main engine ground (underneath from passenger side of engine to body) and the grounds at the back of the engine "V" and additionally the coil grounds.

So if your engine is running and then abruptly stops running, it is possible that you have an intermittant ground at one these locations. If the engine management computers cannot find a ground, your engine will not run. Period.

[Dadddio]

Did what you said Stan, thank you.
Replaced relays and fuel pump fuse.
Fuse was not as tight as i feel it should have been.
Put a new fuse in, it felt loose also.
Pulled the fuse and took a spring loaded center punch and punched
two little bumps on each blade.(let me know if this is no good)
That snugged it up nicely.
It starts, and stays running.
Idle still fluctuates, ISV on the way.
Hoping this took care of it.
CE panel R/R in my near future.
Stepson, all ground points were cleaned last fall.
Will definitely check them though, thanks.

[Mrmerlin]

nice trick on the fuse the CE panel slot can get sprung open and thus make poor contact .

NOTE shooting the the fuse panel with an IR gun after its been running will tell you where the poor connections are ,
any fuses that are hotter than the rest have poor/ dirty/loose connections

[Danglerb]

I don't know if the bumps are a good idea or not, on a high amp fuse those make for pretty small potential contact points depending on the orientation of the fuse socket clips.

[Dadddio]

I did think about that.
I've tried bending the blades before with no luck.
Maybe Alan will chime in.

[Dadddio]

Update.
New ISV.
New relays.
New fuel pump.
Thought I had it.
Started and drove good for a couple days.
Tonight, no start.
Jumped fuel pump, no start.
Now what?
Possible alarm problem?

[Mrmerlin]

replace the crank position sensor,
the temp 2 sender,
and add a short TPS harness ,
this harness usually snaps off at its connection at the top of the water bridge

[Dadddio]

Done those already Stan.
Rich at ERI did my MAF and both computers a few months ago.
What's left? I'm baffled.

[Mrmerlin]

Doh sorry I went back and reread your work.
I would remove the CE panel bolts and drop it down ,
ON the back of the panel take the multi meter and see if power is coming out of the bottom of the fuel pump fuse,
its possible the fuse holder to wire connector has gotten corroded and isnt passing the power,
thus power will pass through the fuse but stop at the fuse holder,
the wire will be dead if this is happening ,
you can remove an unused fuse pin and swap it in

[Danglerb]

Clean all the engine grounds, both ends of engine ground strap.

Do you know if you have an old alarm system?

[Landseer]

If you haven't already, replace battery ground strap, regardless of how clean the ends appear.


Also is possible to have a ground wire not making contact due to corrosion in the sleeve of the eyelet that bolts to the pass rear side of valley. Mine was due to mice peeing on that set of wires.

[Dadddio]

It is the stock alarm. (disabled)
It started, ran, and drove.
Not getting too excited, it has done this
before only too not start again.
Will check all grounds again.
Will get a new ground strap.
Still gonna R/R the CE panel.
Anything else let me know.

[Dean_Fuller]

Ignition switch maybe. Are there ANY other odd issues? Windows will not work on and off.

[Dadddio]

Could be the switch.
The key is very sloppy when in the ignition.
No odd electrical gremlins.