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It’s basically all back together with the exception of the drivetrain. Don’t know what I am going to do with myself.

LOL the machinist and Noland cylinder head have been waiting to hear from me and I have been waiting to hear from them I just got word he is going to start preparing the engine and nolands is going to evaluate the heads for what's needed and then shoot me a request for approval and the good thing is I am only into this for about 150 dollars so far and everything is clean. He has already sourced me a good 930 oil pump and the engine tin and he says he will save me 1000 bucks going this direction. Mike is doing this because of the absolutely horrible shape the engine showed up in and he is giving me a break on labor as well to machine out the broken studs so that's good.

With any luck I will be assembling the short block sometime this fall.

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Done all I can do until I get the motor back

I was in such a hurry to get the car running that I didn’t clean up welds on the turbo charge piping so now that I have the time I am cleaning up the welds and polishing the pipes so they look good going back together

As we all know these 50 year old cars have many electrical glitches as the wiring ages. I have been chasing many such issues since I started driving the car again now that it is down for an extended period I am one by one eliminating said glitches.

Well my door locks quit working dig into it yesterday and the solenoids are fine apparently the internal relays in the alarm system had failed so I am waiting on new relays to show up so I can get that working. That leaves the fuel level and oil level trouble shooting and I can’t do those until the motor is back in but I can clean up the electrical connections so I don’t have grounding issues.

Interior lights sorted out part of the problem was the alarm system that affected the interior lights trunk light and the remote door locks the relays had burned out so the alarm is replaced with new alarm and relays so lights light and the doors lock and unlock now. Next change the siren and work on some of the dash lights I am sure we have grounding issues try to get the hi beam flash to work in the turn signal switch or replace the switch and work on the fuel level sender issue and I think I will be good on electrical issues.

Dash lights sorted out bad ground and poor 12 volt connection been 20 years since I touch them so it was time.

Took the last parts to the machinist today and looked over what has been done. I am not sure what I am going to do with a shiny engine! The heads are being inspected and evaluated then they will be sent off for twinplugging and the cams are going out to get reground. A question what is the best cam profile to use on a 3.2 short stroke turbo 1 bar boost?

Question for the group stock SC rods using ARP rod bolts or aftermarket rods (edit) It has been recommended to not use the stock con rods so I am getting billet rods with ARP rod bolts.

Things are progressing the case is getting cleaned up and broken head studs removed the heads are cleaned and getting broke down and once they are reconditioned they are going off to be twin plug modified. Just ordered the pistons and cylinders from LN Engineering so should have those next week sometime.

Dougherty is doing my cams and rocker arms to a grind specific to my build so that is exciting

The engine is being built to make 500 hp at 1 bar safely it will be detuned to 350 or less until I can get my hands on a G50/01

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The first of many high quality parts to acquire for this build these are 3.0 liter turbo to 3.2 liter P/Cs comp ratio 7.5 to 1 next acquisition to be billet con rods and get the cams reground to a special profile

sweet.

Just talked to the machinist we are going with pauter rods the cams and rocker arms are on their way to doughtery and the crank is all cleaned polished and is std/std so that is great

Nice!

Wow, it is a lot like my build!

So you went with the Mahles instead of the LN Nickies?