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Thumbs up 3.2 turbo project nearing beginning

Alright guys, you have all just become my new best friends. I am getting ready to start my 3.2 turbo conversion. I have sourced most of the parts, but have a few questions before I begin.
1. Where is the best place to run the vacuum line from the bov?
2. Do I need to relocate the vacuum line on the intake? I will be using the "flapper box" AFM for now running protomotive chip and rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
3. I saw pics of how some of you run the oil drain line from the turbo to the oil drain. I would like to do that, too. Can anyone tell me what hose and fittings are needed (size, etc..)
4. The turbo I got (Garrett GT35R) did not come with any sort of fittings on the oil or drain ports. Can anyone tell me what size fittings (thread size, etc) are needed?
5. Can anyone make any recommendations for how I should to the exhaust and wastegate discharge?
6. Can I attach the turbo and wastegate before installing the headers?
7. Can anyone tell me what type of tubing I need to go from the compressor discharge to the wastegate? It seemed that it would need to be some sort of high temp tubing. And, does anyone know where I can get that?

I am going to try to go a nice write up and take nice pics of the project as I go to post. Below are pics of the car and the parts I have so far.

Thanks for your help guys.

Old 05-12-2007, 05:33 PM
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Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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Beautiful car.
The wastegate mounts directly on that lone pipe off of the driver's side bank of the headers.
The large blue hose will connect the turbo discharge to the intercooler inlet.
I can set you up with a muffler and dump tube for your W/G. Shoot me an e-mail.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8

Last edited by RarlyL8; 05-12-2007 at 07:32 PM..
Old 05-12-2007, 07:30 PM
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I use hi temp silicone tubing for the wastegate signal. Available all over - just google silicone tubing or search ebay.

The vacuum on the intake is fine, you can t it off to the fpr.

Do the headers first.
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:33 AM
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My BOV is tee'd off at the flapper also...

One thing I've learned...the slightest vacuum leak is greatly magnified by the turbo versus regular CIS....
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Last edited by mede8er; 05-13-2007 at 08:10 AM..
Old 05-13-2007, 08:08 AM
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Hey Kepster

Looks awesome. I have a few questions:
1. Where have you sourced the parts.
2. What is the approx. price for the kit.
3. What is your goal as far as HP.

I have an old 1976 Carrera 3.0. Which i am gonna turbocharge myself, but before I do that I have some other serious issues (rust) that needs to be sorted out. I have spent the last couple of days reading about 50 pages of threads stuffed with fantastic car and projects. I am from Denmark, EU. So I am not used to such a huge Porsche "community". So this is kind of a revelation to me. I haven't decided yet if i am gonna go with the CIS or build my own EFI for my own car, but I got plenty of time to sort that out. So far it is all about rust repair and lightening the car. I will be using a lot og GRP an CRP to achieve my goal, which is a ratio of 2200lbs to 300HP. Best of luck with your project, hope I can thrive a little on your knowledge and upcoming hands-on experience.
regards
Jesper
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:35 AM
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Thank you for your help guys. My car is a 1974 with a 3.2. I am currently running a cat bypass, M&K Muffler and Steve Wong chip.
I sourced the intercooler, headers and plumbing from goingsuperfast.com, the turbo and wastegate from ebay, and I have the chip and RRFPR coming in from Protomotive. I ordered the wastegate with a .6 bar spring just to be a little cautious. I am hoping that I will get about 370 crank HP. I think I have spent a bit over $4k.
I think that the car is pretty fast now, but know that there is much more to be unleashed. I do all of my own work, and am looking forward to tearing into this one.
I want to lose my front mounted oil cooler set up. I want to shorten the distance the oil has to travel. Anyone have any good recommendations about where to relocate it to. I saw goingsuperfast.com had pics of one mounted below the intercooler. Looked interesting.
Old 05-13-2007, 04:10 PM
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.6 bar is not really consertative. that is nearing the edge for stock internals on a 3.2.. portomotive says .7 bar is the limit.. and I can back that statement with first hand experience..
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Old 05-13-2007, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kepster
I want to lose my front mounted oil cooler set up. I want to shorten the distance the oil has to travel. Anyone have any good recommendations about where to relocate it to. I saw goingsuperfast.com had pics of one mounted below the intercooler. Looked interesting.
I highly doubt you will get anywhere near the cooling efficiency if you relocate that cooler anywhere else. What problems do you have with the oil traveling up front?
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Old 05-13-2007, 05:26 PM
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Good to meet you guys.

Thanks for the tips you have given me. My biggest concern with the front mounted oil cooler is with oil changes. I am not draining all of the oil out of the lines when I change my oil and this is a concern to me. I have also noticed that it seems to take a significant amount of time for the oil to travel to the front. I am not noticing any particularly high temperatures and my oil pressure is good, but sometimes I will go on a long drive and will feel the oil hoses and the lines will not be very hot as I reach the front of the car. Now, I haven't really driven it when the outside temperature has been really hot, but I expected more. I guess I would just feel better or more secure if the oil had less distance to travel.
Old 05-13-2007, 05:33 PM
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Warm, not hot, oil lines are good! That means the cooling system is doing its job. You have 2 oil coolers on your car, one mounted on the back of the engine and one mounted remotely at the front of the car. The first cooler does all the work while the engine is below 180*F. Once that temp is hit the thermostat opens and allows the oil to travel to the front. The long lines to and from help cool the oil as well. Your warm lines mean that the front cooler is not overworked and is handling the job well. If the temperature is cold, such as below freezing, the thermostat may not open at all. In hot climates the front cooler may not cool enough requiring a larger cooler or a fan or both.

In short leave it where it is. The location is good for optimal cooling when you need it. Adding a turbo - you're gonna need it.
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'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:02 PM
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Nice car kepster, good project.

The oil circuit to the front cooler is fed from the discharge of the engine sump scavenge pump. The oil returns from the front cooler, goes through the filter then discharges into the oil tank at the rear. The thermostat in front of your right rear tire bypasses the front cooler loop until needed. This is a well engineered system generally considered to not need upgrading unless the thermal load of the engine is increased, such that the front cooler becomes insufficient. If this is the case there are several alternate front cooler assemblies available, a search on Pelican will show some.

If your oil temp Gage runs in the upper range and your front oil lines don't get hot, there may be a possibility the oil thermostat is not functioning correctly, an infrequent problem as far as I know.

With regular changes and good quality oil the amount remaining in the lines is not considered an issue.

Lots of 'turboheads" around for advice on your conversion
Old 05-13-2007, 07:19 PM
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Thanks Brian. I will do that. That sounds like sound advice. Your car looks awesome. I was looking at your help design post.
Old 05-13-2007, 07:20 PM
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Good luck kempster, I'm in the processes of finding all the parts for a very similar conversion myself.
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:28 AM
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The weight of the cooler at the very front of the car helps with weight balance too.
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Old 05-14-2007, 11:39 AM
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Any news on your project? I have a 3.2 and consider going turbo... I need a shopping list of parts.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:21 PM
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You can also try to replace the thermo switch in the front fender well oil cooler. There is a BMW part # (that I would have to look up) that will turn the fan on @ a lower temp. I made the change about 2 years ago, B/C the Louisiana heat and humidity were driving my temps up a little too high. Since the change there have been no issues. Even since I added the turbo I am still having no issues w/hot oil temps.
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Old 06-12-2007, 01:13 PM
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Do you have any pics of your conversion Phil? I'm collecting parts at the moment to do mine.
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Old 06-12-2007, 03:09 PM
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I have some pics, but I don't want to Hijack this thread... PM me your E mail address and I will send you some pics
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Old 06-14-2007, 06:02 AM
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well...................it's just one big turbo party isn't it
good luck with your project
Old 06-14-2007, 07:02 AM
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I have it all put together. I will post more about the steps I took shortly. I drove it for the first time yesterday. The idle is loping, and I do not have the power I expected. When I got it home I saw that I blew off all of my vacuum lines. How much of an effect would this have on the way it is running? (this includes the vacuum line to my protomotive RRFPR). I did not have time to make the repairs and run it again. I will do this over the weekend.

Old 06-14-2007, 08:22 AM
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