Andy,

What kind of budget did you start with and where are you now? I am thinking about going the same route and I am trying determine if it would be cheaper just to sell my 3.2L and put a 3.3L turbo in the car?

Thanks,

Mark

Hi Mark,

I started with a $5,000 budget, but that was before I decided to go to 3.3L Mahle pistons & cylinders and twin plug. You really don't get into much trouble until you tear the engine down... it takes on a will of its own at that point. The budget has probably nearly doubled by now. I will add it all up eventually, but, I'd rather not know until after it's done so I can enjoy it all :)

In short, yes, it'd be cheaper to swap a 3.3L turbo for your engine, but you may even want to consider selling your car and just buying a 930. The brakes, suspension, and rear wing are all aspects you will eventually want/need anyway with a narrow body carrera. Additionally, a 930 will maintain its value better than a turbo Carrera.

If money is not as much of a concern or if you can't front the higher $$ amount for a 930, modifying a Carrera is a good option. The intake plenum, cylinder heads, transmission and electronic engine management system have its benefits over a 930. For me, I really wanted the opportunity to learn and work on my car as I had never touched an engine before this project. I'm really looking forward to the satisfaction of seeing the engine going from torn apart into a running machine :D

well put. for me was I wanted a 930 but my wife did not want anymore selling or buying of cars so I just made my own 930 of sorts. The benifits are really learning to do things for your self, if you have a 3.2 carrera the managment itself is great over CIS with today's tech like protomotive chips etc, then there is the g50 if you have 1 there is nothing better ogf a combo.

The major cost is if you break something like pistons BTDT. the best engine to start with is a carrera 3.2 and do the following as this really is the cheapest and safest route


3.3 p&C's can find them used all over the place$400-1500
proto motive chip$400?
BEGI rising rate fuel pressure reg $200
930 headers/ carrera heatexchangers/930 j pipe or the likes $300-2000 depending on your taste.
turbo $300-$1500
pressure piping and bov $500
oil lines/feed,drain $300
WG $100-500
930 muffler $100-1000

This kind of gives you of a bare bones conversion on a known engine.

FINALLY made some progress tonight!!! Here some pics of tonight's progress:

Supertec Head Studs and turbo cylinders

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1216869522.jpg



Valve job and twin plug done by Supertec

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1216869607.jpg



Long Block back together

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1216869632.jpg

great stuff Andy!!

That's going to be one great car! Good call on doing the twin-plugging. Without the intercooler and with relatively high C/R you'll need it more than ever.

If you get any money left over, please try to find an intercooler and install it. Even if it's used, banged-up dirty unit. When everything starts to work you'll be tempted to raise the boost and intercooler will come very handy.

A gentleman fom Norway posted pictures of his water/air intercooler not too long ago, it's worth checking out (and it's a very neat installation that can be fitted under the lid of narrow-bodied car).

Thanks guys :)

I was actually writing this up when I saw your post: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/421647-turbo-tail-engine-lid-c-mods-carrera.html :) Enough time will have transpired by the end of this project that I can replenish my resources just to dump them all over again :D

Very nice:cool:. I'm ready to see this thing complete.

Put the cams and everything in the cam housings in last night and timed it. MUCH more to come tomorrow!! :D

Very nice!!!
Andy your kicking ass with that thing, keep going!

The engine is back together!!! We should have the engine back in the car sometime next week. The only things left to figure out (aside from the tuning) is the wiring of the Andial splitter, turbo charge pipe plumbing, and the air filter plumbing. It's going to be a little tricky to work around the 964 dizzy, but I think we should be OK. I've got a backdated left side engine shroud on the way next week. I'm hoping I can get a pipe from the turbo up to the hole in the left shroud so the air filter can be inside the engine bay. If I can't, then I'll stick with an elbow off the turbo for now.

I was taking the bumper off tonight and broke one of the studs holding the right bumper buffer. Anyone ever tried repairing/replacing one of these studs?

MUCH more to come soon :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217123252.jpg

Andy, make sure you have enough slack in the wiring harness to reach back to the connector in the engine compartment. From the pic you posted it looks like you routed the harness though 2 &3... you might want to check your old pics to see if it was routed between 1 & 2... I was short of cable when I put mine back in and had to pull off a lot of stuff to reroute the cable to get enough slack to plug it back in... just a little wisdom I gained during my endeavor...

Andy, make sure you have enough slack in the wiring harness to reach back to the connector in the engine compartment. From the pic you posted it looks like you routed the harness though 2 &3... you might want to check your old pics to see if it was routed between 1 & 2... I was short of cable when I put mine back in and had to pull off a lot of stuff to reroute the cable to get enough slack to plug it back in... just a little wisdom I gained during my endeavor...

Hey guys,

I have a quick favor to ask. Can someone running stock heat exchangers & the J pipe take a picture of the clearance between your turbo and the LHS timing cover? My compressor discharge pipe shoots horizontally as opposed to the stock KKK turbos. I have the 90 degree elbow to install on it, but I want to make sure there won't be any clearance issues. Here's a pic of the turbo I'll be running:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217214122.jpg

Thanks guys.

Just re-clock the turbo. Most turbochargers allow to move compressor housing in step-less manner. If not, you can move it in 60-degree increments.

Brilliant! If you can't already tell, I'm a nube at this :rolleyes:

We've got the new clutch assembly on and we're ready to mate it up to the tranny tomorrow night.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217391749.jpg

Here's where we're going to snake around the 964 dizzy:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217391735.jpg

Andy, looking good, you're gonna love it.

Thanks Jerry - I'm getting psyched!

I just want to clarify a few things regarding tuning with the LM-1. It's my understanding that the O2 sensor for the LM-1 should be connected after the turbo, in the muffler. While tuning, should I pull out the stock O2 sensor and cap the J-pipe? Or do I leave it in? When the tuning process is finished, should the stock O2 sensor should be in the J-pipe (before the turbo)?

Regarding the vacuum lines.... Should the top fitting on the Tail Wastegate vent to the atmosphere and the one on the middle be connected to the turbo?

If you have a 3.3 L, most folks DC the stock O2 sensor. The Top of the Tial vents to atmosphere. The one in the "middle" usually picks off the side of the IC.