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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 293
Trying to get some a/c

I am trying to get some good cold A/C in my 930. I put in a bigger I/C so I had to lose the stock york compressor.



This is a sanden 508 and it just barely fit.

I also had to remove the rear condenser because of the intercooler. So I had to get some other ones. I put one with a fan behind the rear tire.




Then I got the big performance aire underbelly one as well.



I also picked up a pro-cooler. I had originally wanted to make the Jim Sims subcooler but didn't have the time or skills to do so.


I haven't hooked this up because I hear it is suppose to be done last. I still have a few things to work out.
#1 I need to put a high pressure switch in but need a part number, anyone know one I could use from napa?
#2 I will have custom hoses made, but I am still not quite sure what order to route the lines. Can anyone help me with this diagram on how to pipe in the rear fender condenser?
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1979 930 Euro
50k:Lindren Green:B&B Dual Out Pipes:K27:965 I/C: --SOLD!!
Old 04-20-2008, 05:51 PM
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I thought you were selling the car.
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Bryan O.
77 930
08 Boxster
14 535i M Sport
Old 04-20-2008, 06:00 PM
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I think I have decided against that, I think I will drive it more with a/c.
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1979 930 Euro
50k:Lindren Green:B&B Dual Out Pipes:K27:965 I/C: --SOLD!!
Old 04-20-2008, 06:02 PM
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The condensors are hooked up in series, so it seems to me you would want the high pressure discharge hose from the compressor to go to the LR fender condensor first and then on up to the big underbelly condensor, and then on to the front condensor.

Then the outlet of the front condensor would go to the inner wall receiver dryer portion of the procooler (top fittings) before going to the expansion valve inlet side of the evaporator.

The outlet hose connection (now low pressure/suction side) of the evaporator goes to the outer wall section of the pro cooler (side inlet connection) and the bottom connection of the pro cooler (outlet) goes to the large diameter suction hose that takes the refrigerant back to the low pressure or suction side of the compressor to start the cycle again.
The large suction hose is routed back to the compressor on the passenger side of the car origonally but with a pro cooler and hose kit from Rennaire it routes back to the rear of the car under the driver side rocker panel next to the thinner diameter high pressure line.

The large suction line then crosses over to the passenger side in front of the transaxle at the back of the floor pan and goes up to the motor compartment between the firewall bulkhead and shock tower cross member just ike the origonal suction line did.

Then again if you are having your own lines custom made you can have them made whatever length you want and route them wherever you want.
Old 04-21-2008, 09:09 AM
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Alright, thanks for the info that helps!
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1979 930 Euro
50k:Lindren Green:B&B Dual Out Pipes:K27:965 I/C: --SOLD!!
Old 04-21-2008, 05:50 PM
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I did mine this winter and there are a few hints that will help you. I found that if you work from the smuggler box outward to the receiver/dryer and to the compressor you will be able to accommadate the extra lenght of the hoses. If you go towards the smuggler box you will have several inches to a foot extra to dispose of with no area to do it in. Always work towards the rear compartment for the same reason. Where the low pressure hose connects to the compressor make sure that you leave enough room to remove/replace your oil filter by angling the fitting away from the filter. I would reccomend putting the low/high pressure switch just before the compressor so that you can use the connector from the compressor clutch and not have to cut the original wiring. Griffiths offers his hose with the switch already installed in this area. Be sure and specify "O" ring type fittings and not the older flare fittings. Also put a liberal amount of oil on each O ring as you tighten the fitting. When you pull your old hoses out be sure and tie a small rope on the part that will be pulled through the hole in the body. After the hose is out then you cut the rope so that you will have enough rope to pull the new hoses through. I wrapped the end fittings with duct tape the applied a little white grease and they came through ok. Another person directing the angled fittings through the holes is a big help. When you go to vacuum and charge the system with a high/low pressure switch installed, you have to bypass it to get the compressor to run. Be sure and get a high/low pressure because the 134a refrigerant runs at a higher pressure than R12 and is prone to over pressureizing. Good luck and it is worth it when you are done.
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Last edited by 911rudy; 04-22-2008 at 01:12 PM..
Old 04-22-2008, 01:08 PM
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I noticed in your picture up the page that the sound pad is removed from your engine bay.
Mine is too and I didn't need to tie ropes or tie the lines together to feed them up through the corners of the rear bulkhead/firewall.
While lieing under the car I could see enough room up there for 3-4 hoses on each side without all the foam rubber crammed in there... I simply fed it up through there from the bottom, no drama, and then pulled them up the rest of the way from the engine compartment.

If all the rotted pieces of foam rubber are crammed in around the hoses still and the sound pad is in place then maybe you would need to tie the new hoses to the old ones and pull them up through.

Afterwards I stuffed some new foam rubber in around the hoses in the corners and a long strip between the bulkhead and shock tower cross member the whole length because thats a big air leak in relation to the engine fan and how much air it sucks through the intercooler and rear condensor, that is if you have a condensor in the tail.

And you should definately start from the evaporator box and work outward when installing the hoses.
Route them around or in between the brake lines in the smuggler box and make sure none of them rub on the tie rod rubber boots or steering column while turning the steering wheel.
Old 04-22-2008, 01:34 PM
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