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cl8ton's Avatar
 
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Splitting tran from engine question

Quick question I cannot seem to find an answer to searching.

Do I need to remove anything else from the tran (Omega spring and such) prior to splitting the
engine and tran? (Starter wiring, throttle linkage already removed)

I.e….just remove the 4 nuts and the transmission separates from the engine?

My concern is the clutch fork and how it engages with the clutch.

Thanks in advance

Reference shot of my nice and clean tran engine


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1987 - 930 Grand Prix White, Not looking for crazy HP, just harmony!
Old 11-18-2008, 03:30 PM
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By "omega spring and such" do you mean you already removed the circlip and at least the small, lower clutch release arm from the clutch fork pivot shaft?

If so, you are golden, getting it re-aligned w/o spinning the release bearing and mis aligning the fork is the fun part, upon reassembly...

Nice clean engine btw
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Old 11-18-2008, 03:44 PM
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All the stuff in the pic (minus the cable) is still on the tran.
So the lever held on by the cir-clip (including the Omega spring) needs to come off?

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Old 11-18-2008, 04:07 PM
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Yes that's correct as that is holding the fork internally to the throw out bearing..
Also you need to remove the starter as well.
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Old 11-18-2008, 04:47 PM
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technically, you only need to remove the lower arm, (it's the only one fixed to the shaft w/ splines) The larger arm pivots on the shaft, but it's dangerous to leave the omega spring in place, as it will likely blow apart at some point.

I usually take the little lever off and reposition it about 12 o'clock in your pic, then release the tension on the omega spring.

Leaving the little lever on, (with circlip back in place!) but repositioned keeps the omega spring from blowing the larger lever down in your face or smashing your hand... This also helps when reassembling!

You can leave the starter in place, just remove the upper 10mm barrel/allen nut. Although it does lighten the trans up a little if you pull it off.
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:11 PM
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Get yourself a clutch alignment tool if you don't already have one.

The fun begins when you try to reinstall the trans. I've had it go right together and I've fought it for hours. No rhyme or reason it seems.

I've even resorted to leaving the PP just loose enough where the disk would move allowing the trans to engage, then tightening down the PP through the starter hole and the gap on the other side.
Old 11-18-2008, 06:16 PM
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+1 to above. Coming apart is the really easy part!! normally what you will find, even w/ an alignment tool, the clutch disk can still droop a little, as you tighten the PP. You almost need someone to hold the alignment shaft on center as you tighten the PP.

Then, when it's time to mate the trans to the engine, put the trans in gear and have someone wiggle the drive flanges back and forth until the splines of the input shaft align with the clutch disc. If you have a limited slip you can do it yourself with one hand on one flange but if not, you really need to wiggle both flanges, until they "lock in"

you have to do all this while supporting the engine and keeping it stationary (it helps to park it against something imobile) As well as lining up the clutch fork with the tabs on the release bearing and keeping the bearing from rotating.

Make sure, before you reinstall the engine/trans that you have the clutch fork aligned equally with BOTH tabs on the release bearing, use a mirror for the bottom tab until you get familiar with eyeballing the top fork/tab. Otherwise, you may be in for a major disapointment the first time you push the clutch and the fork slips off the release bearing. It's much easier to correct when the engine is on the floor versus after everything else is hooked up and you thought you were ready to crank it. (don't ask me how I know this)

It's good practice to actually hook up the clutch cable, adjust the clutch, and test the pedal right after you have securely mounted the engine & trans, before proceeding with hooking everything else up, just in case
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Old 11-18-2008, 06:36 PM
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+10000 on what Mike said!!
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Old 11-18-2008, 06:57 PM
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Thanks all, I can already see loosing a fingernail during this procedure

A rookie mistake I made 2 years ago replacing the Omega spring, loosened everything
so the spring kind of wiggled in place and thought there was no tension on it.

One screwdriver pry away and the spring came off and hit the concrete with enough velocity
to leave a crater…this spring scares the hell out of me!

Going to search PP long and hard to make sure I do spring/lever removal right this time!
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9dreizig View Post
+10000 on what Mike said!!

Sounds like you've been there too, huh?

I hear ya Rod, that spring still scares me... Hence my comments about unloading and loading the tension w/ both arms in place and locked in w/ the circlip... It's a little safer that way...
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsrmike View Post
Leaving the little lever on, (with circlip back in place!) but repositioned keeps the omega spring from blowing the larger lever down in your face or smashing your hand... This also helps when reassembling!
BTDT....smashed the holly crap out of my thumb when the spring let go and pinned my thumb between the lever and its stop. All this while I was under the car adjusting the linkage. Trapped as I was, thumb securely held in place and hurting ever so much. I was about to yell for my significant other to come save me, but was able to save myself and my dignity by using a handy screwdriver to pry the tension off the spring. Beware...lots of potential energy in that spring!
Old 11-19-2008, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cl8ton View Post
All the stuff in the pic (minus the cable) is still on the tran.
So the lever held on by the cir-clip (including the Omega spring) needs to come off?

Rod,

I just dropped my motor for the first time last month and it was a breeze.

I disconnected the clutch cable and used a c-clamp on the helper spring, which prevents loosing any digits.

Next, I removed the circlip from the transmission shaft and removed the two arms from the shaft. After removing the four fasteners between the transmission and engine, give the clutch shaft a turn in order to disconnect the fork from the throwout bearing. You can look through one of the openings in the bell housing to verify that the fork has moved off of the throwout bearing. Last step is simple, pull on the tranny and you're done.

Regards, Dave

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Old 11-19-2008, 02:15 PM
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Thanks Dave, I appreciate your post!
Great advice...
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Old 11-19-2008, 06:40 PM
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Personally, I think the omega spring is a piece of cake to snap in and out of place. I'll post the page from the workshop manual...it's not nearly as scary as working with the dreaded garage door spring!
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:25 PM
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As for the omega spring, it's really just a matter of levering on the arm. Don't get me wrong, handle with care:

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Old 11-20-2008, 05:17 AM
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