Latest Project - Headers

[RarlyL8]

Haven't done the heat boxes yet, I sure hope not too much magic is involved! Gotta keep the price down.

Today I documented installation for the instruction sheet.
Started by removing the entire system and pulling apart the components so they are the same as when shipped to the end user.
You only need 4 tools to install this system, a ratchet wrench with extension, 8mm hex bit, 13mm socket and 17mm box end wrench.




Start by installing the driver's side header with gaskets.
Next install the passengers side with no gaskets to get the primaries lined up, then remove.
Assemble the Y-pipe and passenger's side header.




Now take the passenger's side header / Y-pipe assembly and wiggle it onto the driver's side header. Allow the full assembly to rotate downward until the wastegate flange rests on the lower valve cover.
Place your header gaskets on the passenger's side header.
Crawl under the engine and rotate the assembly up to the heads and wiggle the header in place.
Bolt header to heads.




Move to the rear of engine and rotate and wiggle the turbo flange into place (with the turbo held in the stock location by the turbo bracket.
Place the turbo gasket between the Y flange and turbo flange.
Place the stock rear turbo bolt retainer on top of the turbo flange and start the rear turbo bolts.
Start the front bolts.
Wiggle the assembly until the bolts are all loose in the holes.
Tighten it all up evenly.
You are now ready to re-install the oil tank, waste gate and muffler.
Turn on the windshield wiper that you previously installed on the inside of the driver's side windshield in anticipation of this moment. You will need it.
Start the car.




The first time I did this it took over an hour of fiddling back and forth (yesterday).
Using this revised method it took maybe 20 minutes.

Now this is pure torture for me. You can see in some of my pictures that the axles are unbolted on my car. That is because the engine is coming out to fix some long overdue oil leaks. So it'll be a week before I can fire this puppy up and see what we've accompilshed. Ain't that the way it goes?

[Garrison]

Looks great Brian. Man I wish I was near you... would be more then glad to be the first to hear what they sound like!!!

[DonE]

After opening the box, the first thing I would do is weld the primaries and secondaries together and chop off the springs. Maybe I missed why these are installed...Maybe not being able to weld all the way around the slip joints?

[RarlyL8]

As you know these pipes move around alot with heat. The spring/collector joint is the only place the primaries can expand and contract. I want these pipes to have longevity.
All the joints are really tight precision fit. The springs are not needed to hold anything together but rather position the tubes back to their starting point after cooling from a good heat cycle. Once the system is heat cycled a few times everything will cement itself in place finding fitment with minimal stress on the entire system as the joints all adjust to where they want to be.
Then you can cut the springs off if you wish.

[Miguel Antonett]

When are you planning on dyno it?

[RarlyL8]

Just as soon as the engine gets back in the car. I hope to get the oil leaks fixed this week.

[RarlyL8]

Engine is out. Hope to get the oil leaks fixed and a laundry list of whileyou'reinthereitis which includes installing a freshly rebuilt 915/71 tranny with factory oil cooler, WEVO stuff and custom 5th gear. YES!

[RarlyL8]

Hope to get the engine fixed up this weekend and back in the car next week.

FINALLY have initial pricing. Will sell the first 3 sets at cost and then see what can be done to keep the price reasonable. It may take me years to get my investment returned but by god we now have a good set of made in the USA 321 headers on the market at a reasonable price. Once the initial run is complete and we get feedback the headers will be offered to Pelican for distribution.

E-mail me for pricing and to order.
Without you this is not possible so all feedback appreciated as always!


On another note, this is how your shop looks when you have a 915 behind your turbo, ha!

[jonesb930]

Brian,

I am interested. i sent you an email.

[DonE]

Brian - here is a pic of the cradle on my header. The stainless hose clamp is there just to keep the wastegate pipe firmly against the header to avoid vibration.

[RarlyL8]

Thank you Don!

I've got 2 commitments and need 3 sold to get the pricing where it needs to be.

[beepbeep]

Originally Posted by DonE

After opening the box, the first thing I would do is weld the primaries and secondaries together and chop off the springs. Maybe I missed why these are installed...Maybe not being able to weld all the way around the slip joints?

+1 on that. There is a risk of exhaust leakage around those joints.You'll still need to mount those headers and do couple of boosted runs, then check for soot marks. It might work on N/A car, but backpressure on turbocharged car is in another league.

Headers look splendid otherwise!

[RarlyL8]

There is no risk of exhaust leak.
This is a tight tolerance fit. The shop builds to aviation standards using the quality systems from that industry. My mufflers use this same slip fit so I have lots of data on that coupling system.
You should see these in person, hold them in your hands, it will change you mind.

[beepbeep]

Have you tested them on the car?

[mb911]

Originally Posted by beepbeep

Have you tested them on the car?

I have slip fits on my setup(993 setup) and no leaks I use the same materials for Brian stuff and my stuff(M&K) with the same tolearnace. I have zero leaks its all about proper fitting joints

[Miguel Antonett]

I have Brians' muffler on my 930 = no leaks.

[RarlyL8]

Have you tested them on the car?

Lots of cars and even more aircraft.
This is not a new design. We have taken the appropriate tried-and-true designs from the racing and aviation world and combined them for use on the 930. What you see here appears unusual for the 930 because we do not wish to just do the minimum to get by, but to exceed the design and quality of anything out there at this price point.

[RarlyL8]

I've received many e-mails asking similar questions so I thought I might post them here.

> Pricing is introductory and will be at cost. Would like to see retail pricing stay there but that depends solely on volume.

> 911 Headers are ready as well. Working on the secondary pipes that attach to the stock dual-in muffler location. Primary sizes are 1.5", 1.625", and 1.75". We are currently tooling up for 1.625".

> Heat exchangers will be offered as a bolt-on option and will be capable of field assembly. So those who decide later that they need heat can have it or if you hit a speed bump you can replace the dented part.

> The system should fit a 965. That was one of the design parameters but I lost my test car and have not done the fitment verification. Anyone with a 965 that wants to give it a go can contact me and we will work out a deal.

> The entire system weighs 15 pounds.

> You can use any aftermarket turbo sump tank and backdate oil lines if you wish.

> All bolts are easy to reach with typical hand tools.

> Turbo bracket mod is only needed if you have a non-stock turbo. System was designed using a K27 with a modified bracket in the stock 3LDZ position which is a common practice.

> Gaskets and nuts are not included. Our host sells all the ancillary parts you may need.

I think that is about it for now. Thank you all for the help and the interest!

[DonE]

And what flange? Can it be either T3 or T4?

[beepbeep]

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

Lots of cars and even more aircraft.
This is not a new design. We have taken the appropriate tried-and-true designs from the racing and aviation world and combined them for use on the 930. What you see here appears unusual for the 930 because we do not wish to just do the minimum to get by, but to exceed the design and quality of anything out there at this price point.

Have you tested the headers in picture with slip-on spring-loaded collector on a actual turbocharged car?