Need a photo of Dist. Vac line.

Benny771 · Benny771's Garage

I need to know where it ends up. The one that disappears under the air box from the Dist.
I need to change the line (old possibly broken).
Car idles very slow during a warm start-up, drive for 10 min, idles just fine.

Thank-you

Ronnie's.930 · 06-03-2010, 04:05 PM

It goes to #7 in the first post of this thread . . . the thermo switch is mounted to the crank case breather housing/cover . . .

How to bypass decel valve?

equality72521 · 04:59 PM

Depends on the car. Mine doesn't have a thermo-time valve so it connects to the throttle body.

equality72521 · 06-03-2010, 04:59 PM

Distributor vacuum pot question

equality72521 · 06-03-2010, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benny771

Car idles very slow during a warm start-up, drive for 10 min, idles just fine.

Sounds like the AAR is faulty, the one with the plug next to the WUR.

Benny771 · Benny771's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by equality72521

Sounds like the AAR is faulty, the one with the plug next to the WUR.

Location? Or Photo ?
I hate showing how little i know about these cars. But i am learning.

"Better to ask and look like a fool for 10 min then not ask and be a fool for the rest of your life".

equality72521 · 06-03-2010, 05:19 PM

equality72521 · 06-03-2010, 05:23 PM

You have a dual pot dizzy so you may very well have the thermo-time valve.

Benny771 · Benny771's Garage

Found it!!!

Whats in the photo anyway. How can that piece be worth that much?

Thanks for the help..

One last thing. The rubber boot that goes from the exhaust to the turbo (on the turbo), approx 3"round?
Does Pelican sell this? I cant find it anywhere?

mark houghton · 06-04-2010, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by equality72521

Sounds like the AAR is faulty, the one with the plug next to the WUR.

+1. Pull the hose off (the one that attaches to the IC) and look inside the AAR. There's a disc with a knotch that rotates to open/close based on the temperature. At stone cold there would be a roughly 3/8" opening +. Also, when you start your car and it idles very low (which says that perhaps the AAR isn't opening or opening too little), try pinching the hose closed (thus restricting any air) and your idle should drop even further if the valve is working....or not drop at all if the valve hasn't even opened. Make sense? All it's doing is directly a little air into the intake manifold post-throttle body to raise the idle. Conversely, when hot the valve should be mostly closed.

If you determine that it's working, then look at your ignition timing and adjust your idle via the air correction screw.

JFairman · 06-04-2010, 08:07 AM

If the picture is of your car it looks like someone removed the red vacuum advance hose from the late eightees (USA emissions) dual pot distributor and plugged it with something and then turned that distributor clockwise as far as the origonal slot allows to sort of make up for it.
Only the centrifical advance would be working now, and the blue vacuum retard hose is still hooked up.

(without the red vacuum advance hose hooked up to work on the other side of the distrbutor pot diaphram it's ~possible the vacuum retard hose and pot is turning into something like boost advance and that might lead to detonation under boost... but i'm just guessing on that)

If you don't need emission controls then don't worry about the little mechanical thermal valve on the breather cover in the vacuum advance line.
It's purpose is to block vacuum advance from the distributor pot while the motor is cold so the ignition timing is retarded which makes the exhaust temperature higher and heats up the catalytic converter faster. You loose a little low end torque while the timing is retarded to do that.
The thermal valve is supposed to open after engine heat transfers into it and that takes a little while and you have no way to know if it's working or not.

Not having any vacuum advance at idle may be why it idles so slow when cold and or it may be the AAV not opening when cold as Mark said.

mark houghton · 06-04-2010, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFairman

The thermal valve is supposed to open after engine heat transfers into it and that takes a little while and you have no way to know if it's working or not.

Just for kicks one day, I pulled that thermal valve and tested it in hot water. The valve opened at about 150 degrees F.

Something for our collective memory banks.

Benny771 · Benny771's Garage

One last thing. The rubber boot that goes from the exhaust to the turbo (on the turbo), approx 3"round?
Does Pelican sell this? I cant find it anywhere?

equality72521 · 06-04-2010, 11:57 AM

Yes (I assume you meant intake), 930-110-158-01-M260

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-110-158-01-M260

Benny771 · Benny771's Garage

[QUOTE=equality72521;5387688]Yes (I assume you meant intake)
Why yes,
You assumed right ! Thanks again.
Seems if you don't know the exact name, your doomed.

equality72521 · 06-04-2010, 02:04 PM

I only knew because I bought one and checked my receipts for the part #. I DIDN'T ADD THE RECEIPTS THOUGH!!!!

Benny771 · Benny771's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark houghton

+1. Pull the hose off (the one that attaches to the IC) and look inside the AAR. There's a disc with a knotch that rotates to open/close based on the temperature. At stone cold there would be a roughly 3/8" opening +. Also, when you start your car and it idles very low (which says that perhaps the AAR isn't opening or opening too little), try pinching the hose closed (thus restricting any air) and your idle should drop even further if the valve is working....or not drop at all if the valve hasn't even opened. Make sense? All it's doing is directly a little air into the intake manifold post-throttle body to raise the idle. Conversely, when hot the valve should be mostly closed.

If you determine that it's working, then look at your ignition timing and adjust your idle via the air correction screw.

I did the timing, never messed with the air correction screw. Cant that mess up the air to fuel ratio for idle?
What am i looking for when i adjust it? After i confirm the AAR is working of course.

JFairman · 06-04-2010, 03:12 PM

The term "air correction screw" is another word for the idle speed fuel mixture adjustment on a carburator and it does not apply to CIS fuel injection.
You're not correcting air or adjusting mixture you are only adjusting the amount of air available at idle speed.

Weber, Solex, and Dellorto Carbs have an idle air correction or idle mixture screw for each throat along with an individual throttle butterfly stop screw or air bypass screw for setting idle speed and synchronising the individual carburator throats.
Using the wrong term for the idle speed screw is confusing to some people that have heard the term air correction screw before but are not sure what it means..

Idle speed on all fuel injected motors I've seen is controlled by bypassing air around the closed throttle butterfly and the idle speed screw changes the size of the passageway the air goes through in the process. it has NO effect on fuel mixture at idle or any other speed.

Idle mixture is adjusted by the CO adjustment screw and that's right next to the CIS fuel head and no where near the throttle body.

Benny771 · Benny771's Garage

So.....
What do i adjust... and where the heck is it?
What am i looking for when i adjust it?

JFairman · 06-04-2010, 05:05 PM

It's a large flat blade screw on the back side of the throttle body. Very hard to see if your car is stock because of the recirculation housing and you need a very long screwdriver to reach it from the left side.

If you have a long neck intercooler it's out in the open, just reach under there and turn it with your fingers.

Turn it counter clockwise to raise the idle speed and clockwise to lower the idle speed.