Bad clutch Judder in 1st, but not all the time?

[nwebley]

Guys, when I move from standstill in first gear, I hit biting point and the clutch judders really badly.. very annoying as I don't want the bill for a new clutch (had one only 6 months ago on my old 930!). The weird thing is that she doesn't do it all the time and when driving, no probs at all, doesn't slip or anything.. Any advice, praying not a new clutch!

Thanks in advance.

P.S I was giving her a good caining about an hour prior!

[pete3799]

Motor and tranny mounts OK?

[nwebley]

I think so, I just installed a zork tube a couple of weeks ago (best money I've ever spent!).. maybe the slight increase in power has killed the clutch..? Whats baffling me is that it doesn't do it everytime I move from standstill..

[RarlyL8]

Sounds like the TOB.
Occurrence depends on what spot the clutch begins to engage. As the situation deteriorates the clutch will chatter so badly it will be difficult to pull away from a stop.

[Ronnie's.930]

Check out this old thread for ideas (I had the same problem and my "fix" is described in this thread):

clutch making the car shake?

[JFairman]

If the clutch disc is worn evenly and not too far then the pilot bearing in the crankshaft may be worn. Some people overlook that when replacing a clutch and it's the least expensive part of a clutch replacement.

If the pilot bearing is worn it allows the input shaft of the transmission to move laterally or jerk sideways back and forth in the end of the crankshaft/pilot bearing as you let out the clutch from a standstill. Even more so if the disc is worn or a 4 puck or similar clutch disc is in there.
The clutch disc is on splines right out at the end of the input shaft a couple inches away from the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft.

[9dreizig]

I had that when I put my engine back in.. Check the adjustment , just a couple of turns will make a huge difference

[nwebley]

Thanks for your help guys.. Brian, forgive my ignorance, but what is a "TOB"?

Either way the engine is going to have to be dropped and I'm now thinking about clutches and what to put in there... If I replace the clutch, I will be looking for an alternative to stock.. Any advice on what to use? It's a stock Euro 930 running a zork, I drive her very hard as well in a lot of stop/start traffic. Anyone know or perhaps used a "Stage 1 Spec Performance Clutch"? Seen it on ebay..

[mark houghton]

Originally Posted by nwebley

Thanks for your help guys.. Brian, forgive my ignorance, but what is a "TOB"?
Either way the engine is going to have to be dropped and I'm now thinking about clutches and what to put in there... If I replace the clutch, I will be looking for an alternative to stock.. Any advice on what to use? It's a stock Euro 930 running a zork, I drive her very hard as well in a lot of stop/start traffic. Anyone know or perhaps used a "Stage 1 Spec Performance Clutch"? Seen it on ebay..

IF you need a clutch, my vote is for Kennedy Engineered Products - only because I'm happy with mine. Hopefully all you need is a TOB and/or pilot bushing to fix your problem.

Here's a list of acronyms that we generated awhile back:

Originally Posted by mark houghton
No such list exists, AFAIK. Don't feel stupid by just asking (we've all been there at one time).
Here are a few off the top of my head. Feel free to correct and/or add to the list.

WUR - warmup regulator, otherwise known as the control pressure regulator
LSD - a magical elixir brewed by Timothy Leary back in the 60's. Or, if you prefer, Limited Slip Differential
AAV - auxilary air valve
AAR - auxilary air regulator
TTS - thermotime switch
CDI - capacitive discharge ignition
OB - generally used in discussion, referring to Over Boosting
MSD - aftermarket ignition
ATDC - after top dead center
BTDC - before top dead center
EBC - electronic boost control(er)
WG - wastegate
PP - pressure plate
TB - throttle body
TOB - throwout bearing
IC - intercooler
BOV - blowoff valve
BL - Brian Leask (maker of adjustable WUR's)
WEGO - Wideband Exhaust Gas Oxygen. . . . sensor. or WB02
and if you go standlaone fuel/ign controler youll need the following
TPS - throttle position sensor
MAP - manifold absolute pressure.......sensor
MAF - mass air flow.......sensor
ECU - engine control unit also known as PCM powertrain control module or EEC Electronic engine control
IAT - intake air temp....sensor
WOT - wide open throttle
CKP - crankshaft or cam position sensor
FRP - fuel rail pressure
AFR - air to fuel ratio

[WERK I]

Had a similar problem. Chattered badly when clutch heated up from stop and go driving. TOB was fine, but pilot bearing wasn't.
FYI, Pilot bearing goes into crankshaft flange where input shaft of transmission mates.

[9dreizig]

I would adjust the clutch first , only takes 10 minutes really

[NIKO930]

HI did you find the fault? I have same problem with mine, after I pulled the engine and put another in. But only in 1. and back gear?

[nwebley]

I tore a gearbox mount.. Changed engine and gearbox mounts and she's all good now!

[kodioneill]

I know you don't think it's your mounts but that has always been the case at my shop. Anytime I had a intermittent clutch judder it was always the mounts. The key I think here is it's an intermittent problem. If a clutch system is bad it usually will display that same problem every time. I don't see how it's possible for a throw out bearing to cause this.

[mark houghton]

Mounts....how simple can that be! Good news. I guess your engine/tranny were torquing so much as to freak out the clutch linkage is all. Clutch judder, in my limited experience, is usually a contaminated disc/PP surface, or heat warped, or pilot bushing. Now I have to add mounts to my checklist.
Glad you got her sorted out.