1987 930 engine drop - Extras

[youfamissim]

Good Morning all. This is my first engine R&R. I've followed the instructions in Wayne's two books and the Bentley publications. I've discovered that generic 911 R&R drop instructions do NOT directly equate to the 930. I've removed a few hoses and wiring that was obvious for R&R. My goal is to avoid removing the motor mounts to discover something was missed - and then have to reattach the engine to disconnect part - "X".

WHAT ELSE do I need to disconnect or remove that is unique to the 930?

ALSO - What is up with accelerator linkage? (And I thought number 1 cylinder was rough.) The small half round coupler - did NOT "snap off" the linkage bar at the tranny as depicted in the books. We all know that Zen is interrupted by silly simple matters that become troublesome PITA Issues.

*** If anyone can/will provide me additional info on this 930 drop, Please do. I'll appreciate and use all the help I can get. Thanks in advance for taking the time to assist me in this matter. I plan to create a 930 drop article once this effort is completed. Many photos were taken along the way. I could not find an article for a 930 R&R when I searched this site. If there is an article specific to 930 R&R - directions to that article will obviously suffice.

Again - thanks for your advice & help.

[krasuskyp]

sub'd!

It seems most here simply "know how to do it" hence no search results 8-).

You sound much like me, ambitious, able, but needing the hand-hold to confidently do it right. I'd be lost w/o the generous, understanding, and patient suckers...er... SOULS here who always are so quick to share their wealth of knowledge!

To me, dropping the motor on one's 930 is a major Rite of Passage to proper ownership (technically it seems the REAL Right of Passage is REBUILDING one's own 930 motor but alas I'm too smaht to do something as stoopid as that!).

Me, I'm not 'there' yet - nope. But... I strode a huge step in that direction w/ my current headerz endeavor. Learning a ton for when 'that' time comes. Maybe in a couple more years 8-).

But looking forward to your DIY for Dummies version - I'll certainly use it when I someday dive in!

Good luck!

[willtel]

There isn't much to it. I think you should address it from the top side first then the bottom.

Up top I would remove the intercooler, air cleaner, crankcase vent, fuel lines, and the electrical harness where it plugs into the firewall\shock tower. You will also need to pull the AC compressor if it is still there. From inside the car remove the cover on the trans tunnel and take apart the shift coupler. Before you lift the rear of the car you will also want to drain the oil.

Now get the car up in the air and address the bottom side. Be safe and make sure the car is stable before you get under it. Death by 930 should only come from the drivers seat, once you are sure the car is safely off the ground you can start with the dirty stuff. Remove the CV joints from the trans and tie them out of the way somehow. Now take apart the throttle linkage where it connects on the transmission, you can leave the part going to the throttle body on the engine. Then address the oil lines on the passenger side, have something like a cork or a paper towel and a plastic bag to plug them or they will drip oil everywhere. If you have heat you will also need to remove the pipes from the heat exchangers.

Once it seems like you have everything loose get your jack or cart or whatever you are using to move the engine squarely under the exhaust and put some pressure on it. At this point you can begin loosening the two mounts at the corners of the engine compartment and the two mounts at the front of the trans. When they are loose (not removed, just loose) try lowering the engine slowly and double check that nothing is binding or still connected. If it all appears to be clear remove the bolts from the mounts with the engine's weight fully supported by the jack. Once they are out lower the engine as slow as possible keeping and eye out for anything that may bind. The engine should come straight down. If it tilts to one side something is connected and needs to be addressed. It may take a little wiggling to get the shift rod to clear the tunnel on the chassis but it should be easy once the engine is lowered a few inches and you can move it back some.

When the engine is finally clear of the car make sure your car is high enough in the air to pull the engine out from under it. I removed the lower valance and the fuel head just barley cleared the bumper.

Now try not to think about how expensive it will be to put back in and start cleaning!


IMG_9793 by willtel, on Flickr


IMG_9802 by willtel, on Flickr


IMG_9816 by willtel, on Flickr


IMG_0037 by willtel, on Flickr

[youfamissim]

Thanks a million. I'm well on my way - it appears . I planned to remove only the engine. Any concerns in parting the engine from the tranny? In this scenario - the two motor mounts in the engine compartment and the 4 tranny bolts are the last to remove with the jack "snug" against engine.

[youfamissim]

Originally Posted by krasuskyp

sub'd!

It seems most here simply "know how to do it" hence no search results 8-).

You sound much like me, ambitious, able, but needing the hand-hold to confidently do it right. I'd be lost w/o the generous, understanding, and patient suckers...er... SOULS here who always are so quick to share their wealth of knowledge!

To me, dropping the motor on one's 930 is a major Rite of Passage to proper ownership (technically it seems the REAL Right of Passage is REBUILDING one's own 930 motor but alas I'm too smaht to do something as stoopid as that!).

Me, I'm not 'there' yet - nope. But... I strode a huge step in that direction w/ my current headerz endeavor. Learning a ton for when 'that' time comes. Maybe in a couple more years 8-).

But looking forward to your DIY for Dummies version - I'll certainly use it when I someday dive in!

Good luck!

Thanks for the kind words. The work is progressing. Had a couple SNAFUS - shift rod allen key was stripped and a cross threaded AC mounting bolt - thanks to a Porsche dealer mechanic... they had Porsche for 4 months last year... another very $$$ story... and the problem remained after I paid them. That was when I chose to resurrect my tools skilz. Eff paying thousands for the privilege of using a Certified Porsche garage. Never again. BTW - after I found this site I fixed the problem with plug wires and a coil.

[willtel]

Originally Posted by youfamissim

Thanks a million. I'm well on my way - it appears . I planned to remove only the engine. Any concerns in parting the engine from the tranny? In this scenario - the two motor mounts in the engine compartment and the 4 tranny bolts are the last to remove with the jack "snug" against engine.

The consensus is that it is easier to remove them as a unit. Getting the clutch release aligned and working properly is hard enough with both parts out of the car, I can't imagine doing it with the engine on a jack under the car.

A few things I forgot to mention. Disconnect the battery and remove the wiring from the starter. Also don't forget to lube the guide tube for the clutch release once the engine and trans are separated.

[oilonly]

Fantastic instructions! Bookmarked for when I do it.

[youfamissim]

SUCCESS!!!

Additional info advised for dropping the 930. disconnect all lines at the oil tank. One will kink on the sheet metal (Right side facing the rear of the car) remove that line.

The starter - bell housing allen bolt is a $@&#%!(*&@%#$. (look to be sure some Certified mechanic didn't use a wire tie to hang the wiring to starter. (Dick...)

For uninitiated newbies like me - there are teeny tiny wire clips that hold the throttle linkage to the ball ends. These must be backed off. A small hook tool is perfect. pull down and the clip will move out of the way. ONLY THEN will the ball end snap out.

With the ball ends removed, we began the drop... baited breath and fear permeated the air. Slowly... slowly... "Wow... is the tranny supposed to dip like that?" "Dude, I dunno...." About six inches down. We began pulling on engine now to get the engine off the bell housing bolts. SUCCESS.

"Dude Im not sure the tranny is supposed to dip that far...." "Me either, I hope were not effing something up."

Yes the tranny is designed to dip! The engine is designed by geniuses. As the motor drops the tranny tilts. Once off the bell housing, you are home free.

[youfamissim]

Thanks to all for their comments - they helped. I posted a new blog entry and will keep that current for anyone interested. I know I will be back with more questions. We are lucky to have this Pelican resource.

[Ken911]

[QUOTE=youfamissim;6045013]SUCCESS!!!
The starter - bell housing allen bolt is a $@&#%!(*&@%#$. (look to be sure some Certified mechanic didn't use a wire tie to hang the wiring to starter. (Dick...)

LOL leave the starter on just remove the wires from it. The bolts and nuts are much easier to get to.

[youfamissim]

[QUOTE=Ken911;6046155]

Originally Posted by youfamissim

SUCCESS!!!
The starter - bell housing allen bolt is a $@&#%!(*&@%#$. (look to be sure some Certified mechanic didn't use a wire tie to hang the wiring to starter. (Dick...)

LOL leave the starter on just remove the wires from it. The bolts and nuts are much easier to get to.

Doh!!!!

Ken... admit... you were waiting for this. I separated the two and learned I may have to drop tranny before install. So removing the bolt was essential unless I;m missing something.

[youfamissim]

Gas and oil fumes, cleaning solvents, confined garage space, trans-dermal absorption of same - and adult beverage consumption ( and other compounds) beginning early in the day- coupled to a week off and essential parts arriving late, made this a special week; that, in several ways, placed me in time warp back some 35 years to that time when responsibilities were shunned in favor of pursuing a permanent adulterated state. My hands are grease creased, my back and hips sore, hands growing calloused, and Porsche calls again. The exhaust fasteners are rusted and did not move yesterday. I used the air tools on low setting to "hammer" on the joints - hoping that moved the penetrating oil into the threads. I do not want to break a stud. The project anticipated to last one week will extend indefinitely, but will be done properly and when the motor is reunited with the car, it will improve performance and appearance.

[Ken911]

LOl yes just leave the tranny connected and pull the whole thing together it's much easier for both removal and installation. leave the exhaust system connected. just disconnect the axles from the tranny. and the shifter linkage. uplug all the wires. drain the oil and remove the oil lines from the tank and the and the bottom of the engine. disconnect the fuel lines, remove the intercooler and air box. Pull the back bumper and then drop it out. pelican sells an adapter for your floor jack that balances the engine and tranny. I have used it a bunch of times. whole process takes about an hour and a half after you have done it once or twice.

[s_morrison57]

Subscribed for when I do it, looking forward to the multi pic thread.

What did you get done at the dealership that cost a ton and didn't solve the problem? You should mention said dealer or shop so others can stay away.
Finn

[quattrorunner]

subed