I'm kinda surprised you haven't made your own shifter! I think you should. It'll only help your aftermarket parts company inventory that we'll all most likely be buying from some day...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/boldblue.gif

Unfortunatly yeshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/sad2.gif

Thank you for guessing my parts would be worth to be made serial, but don't have the time. If I think of how much someone should offer to motivate me for any of my parts, the amount would make everyone speechless:D

You won't believe, but I do in fact thought about making my own shifter, not that difficult, but I had no idea of the ratios from rod, link etc... My conclusion was too much waste until I would find the best compromise between shifting travel, precision and still not to tight.

Maybe I will in the far future made the console out of aluminum, there is the biggest potential for improvement. the rest is quite nice when I am finished with my work now.

Shifter
 

You said you had a Haggard shifter ... How did you like it ? I am leaning towards getting one myself because of the position while sitting is better with 6 point on .

Roland, thanks for taking the time to picture and explain all of the various flaws in the D-Zug shifter, as I was very interested in it, but no way would I want something that expensive which shows so little attention to detail. I can definitely understand why you are disappointed, and had I gotten one in like condition, would return it immediately. I realize that a return is a bigger problem for you considering your location. Anyway, thanks again.

Kozmo

I loved my Hargett shifter, optimal shifter position and travel, therefore a bit more force needed, but you will ever now, when gear is in.
The reason I sold mine is that there is no way to get it street legal, as it covers the handbrake. you can't reach without unlock the safety belt. Especially me as a small person and 4-point harness;)

This one does not affect handbrake, so I give it a try. No idea about performance, but some people here reported good one.

Ronnie (it's rather Ronny, right?)

Yes returning would be a big amount of effort, so I will "update the shifter". Don't get me wrong, it sure works fine, but the way it's made is fine for a DIY piece for your own use, but for selling... I don't know...

I am also a bit disappointed by Pelican to not check their products a bit better for built quality

Roland, I understood your point and agree - for what it costs, there should not have non-symmetrical cuts/lines, or anything of the sort. I wonder if they are all built like that, or if the one you got somehow slipped through (and then slipped all the way to Switzerland :D)?

"Ronnie" is the more common short (you don't see it spelled "Ronny" very often here in the US) for "Ronald". I was called "Ronnie" as a kid (I'm 46 now) and it stuck with me into adulthood. * No doubt Paul will come in here now with a theory as to "why" - probably something along the lines of questioning my manhood :D * For many years now, probably about half of the people I know call me "Ron" (when they are not calling me "stud" or "your highness", of course)! :p

P.S. I thought of you the other day when I mailed an eBay package to Switzerland! ;)

I decided to make my own shifter console, but... later;)

Until then, I made a between solution:

Machined rod and made some nylon shims to adjust play and have no metal to metal contact surface. Axis of rod is a modified bolt, but hollow drilled and machined for weight saving. Surface is polishes too and has only little play in the rod:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393525637.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393525668.jpg

Further I worked on the console. Made the bearing sides parallel to each other (note the bow caused by the smaller gap now between) using a big hydraulic press. The aluminum blocks articulation bolts are made out of M8 SS bolts, Polished bearing area and less play radial and axial, witch leaded to smooth movement here as well. Note there is no need for bolt head inside as the block is centered due the shims between block and console:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393525971.jpg

Unreal as usual.

I sometimes wonder if I will click on this thread and find that you scrapped the flimsy old 930 shell just to carve a new one out of billet.

How much weight that would safe?:D If it's enough... you'll never know...

Seriously, I just want it to stay a 930, so some things I would never change (but work in them) like flat six air cooled, single turbo because I still want to feel it's a 930 in it's main character. But no problem when some of you guys do things like this. Everybody should make it his own way

Made a new console for the fuel filter, maybe I still should drill a bit, what do you think:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393682605.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393682629.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393682651.jpg

Nice to see that car is coming back together Roland :-)
So many great details on this car

That bracket is way too solid. Needs serious drilling :-)
What type of fittings and plumbing are you using for the fuel?

^drilled fuel lines^ :D

duh?

Disgustingly heavy! Chop chop, dear boy. Get drilling! :D :D

Coming along nicely Roland - I'm also about to get started with fuel pumps, filters, fittings, fuel lines.

SS braided PTFE lines, AN-6 from pump to pump to filter, AN-10 from Filter to Rail to Rail to FPR, AN-6 back to tank. Fittings all black like on pic (Fragola brand bought from Summitracing)

Ok, I think about drilling;)

Did you missed me :-)
 

Because I have to stay with the parking brake, I decided to save at least some weight there too. Drilling, hollow drilling and an aluminum bush with plastic bearings, that's it

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396208047.jpg

Made the pushrod and the axle of the lock lever out of aluminum too. Aluminum bolt for switch is on the way, but at least it's ready to install now:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396301479.jpg

I was thinking of lighter joints for the throttle linkage. Looked at tons of in the RC area, but found only too weak, too small or too big, but none fitted my thoughts... until now:)
From BMW vintage carburators of cars and bikes, very cheap each pair about 6 USD and M5 thread as I wanted. Used the SS balls of the joints I had before, nuts are aluminum of course:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396468799.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396468823.jpg