Awesome, get out and drive that b*tch sideways, Wahoo!

Phil

Nice !!!

Kenik, take care not to experience any premature "you know wutz" when you first turn the key in that thing!!!

Kenik...........bring the GoPro and film the event.

regards,
al

The car is out in the wild. Here it sits, after running under its own power for the first extended period in years:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444765362.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444765374.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444765390.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444765402.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444765417.jpg

Lots to do to get this thing fully dialed in, but before I go deep on that, a few impressions:

• This car is truly daily drivable. Starts immediately and power is smooth everywhere.
• AFRs are solid everywhere, although boost is currently spring limited to .4 - .5 BAR.
• As a result, the car is REALLY FAST, almost scary fast for a guy used to 2L 911s. But there's A LOT left in there.
• The Sachs BTR clutch is sublime.
• Brakes = GREAT
• The best handling 911 I own - I cannot believe how light the steering is.
• Mid-year sport seats are the most comfortable seats Porsche ever made.

In terms of dialing things in:

• Boost - either the car still has a boost leak, or there is something wrong with the stock gauge...or both. I wind it up to above 4 grand and boost tapers back to zero on the stock gauge. I'll have to data log with a passenger and laptop to confirm. Boost onset also seems really late (not seeing any boost until above 4K).
• Speaking of boost and data logging, I will next bump peak boost via the ECU to .8 BAR. I have yet to confirm that the CPU controlled boost solenoid is operational.
• Knock control - have yet to confirm if knock control is working. Again, a job for data logging.
• Timing - I'm still running a very conservative timing curve. I'll start tweaking with this only after I have confirmation that knock control is working. I'm certain a little more timing will do wonders for enhancing boost onset.

That's the mechanical stuff, but there's a near endless list of body and interior details to attend to. All things in due time...for now, it is time to DRIVE IT. :D

Do we local yocals get to see it.....tonight?

regards,
al

You'll hear it before you see it...but, yes. :eek:

Confirmed tonight with another 930 that boost onset is waaaaaay late, way too soft and just doesn't hold. You can hear the turbo working, but that pressurized air is going bye-bye. Going to have to spend some time with a lit cigar and an air compressor this weekend to find that leak.

I'll say that even with a boost leak and limited to .5 BAR... Damn this car is fast!

yikes
 

oh yes......boost issues aside...this is a beast......that motor sounds very healthy...in a decidedly nasty and serious way.

regards,
al

Check all bolts holding the intercooler down, and look close at the pipe between the turbo and the intercooler to ensure it's sufficiently engaged at both ends.

Sweet 930 you have.

Kenik I find it funny that you parked next to a civic hybrid in the picture. opposite ends of the spectrum for fuel consumption.

Wait until you get the car sorted and turn up the boost. It will be your rocket ship for sure.

^ Welcome to Microsoft. There seem to be three axes of cars here: Green drivers (the number of Teslas here is ridiculous), those who don't give a **** and buy whatever the latest TV commercial tells them to and car people. There's an annual Microsoft car show for charity and there are some REAL cars that show up like a Lola Can Am car, straight 8 Alfa, L88 Vettes, and other really neat stuff.

When this car is finally run .9 BAR without boost leaks, OMFG. Not sure my mind will stay in one piece.

Great shot, Kenik

Great shot. Love the scruffy look with mismatched Fuchs too.

Funny, the compulsion to make things perfect. I've think I've loved my cars most when they're scruffy and full of character. Character is harder to come by on perfect cars.

I know what you mean. But the car just looks honest. Imperfect and perfect at the same time.

An observation: Electromotive's WinTec4 tuning software is from another era, when "intuitive user interface" and "software" were from different planets. Needless to say, working through the arcane UI and less than useful user manual, I've had to fall back upon the knowledge of others.

Setting up the boost control solenoid in Wintec is comical - only because finding the setting is impossible...because the "Boost Control" isn't actually boost control as most of us would think about it. See this image? To set up a boost controller, you DON'T use the "Boost Control" option. That option is for speed threshold based boost control, designed for drag racers, if-and-only-if, you've configured a speed sensor.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445364211.jpg

To set max boost, you need to use "Full Table (PWM)", which allows you to configure full table control of the boost solenoid via pulse width modulation, which ultimately sets the dump setting on the wastegate. Sound confusing? It is, until it is explained to you.

First you need to know the frequency in Hz of the boost controller - in this case, the standard GM/Delphi unit is 30Hz (Thanks, Richard Clewett!)
Then you click "Table Select" and set a value of 1, which intuitively :rolleyes: means your reference table is the MAP/RPM table.

From there, you must then double-click the words "Edit Table", because they look oh-so-clickable, right? Then, and only then, do you finally get the boost table, which is an overlay of the ignition table, which allows you to configure the boost control:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445364483.jpg

Now you can see MAP pressure in kPa, which if you divide by two, gives you BAR.
The 0 and 100 values are the duty cycle, which mean full open and full closed. Net-net, you put 100 in the cells with the value that represents your chosen boost threshold, which causes the wastegate to be actuated, dumping boost at your chosen point.

Intuitive, right?

Speaking of the ignition table, here's mine for reference:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445364671.jpg

Lots of tuning left to go. The knock sensors still don't work, so won't tune for power until I can detect knock. But in the meantime, I am pretty close to having smooth startup and idle figured out.

Just what the doctor ordered:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445474030.jpg

It's amazing how many time a $5.00 part keeps things from running right.

regards,
al

Next time ping me before you buy crap - I think I have a bunch of spares. :)

I installed the outer o-ring and the IC to uppipe rubber ring this morning. The difference is both noticeable and measureable: boost comes on faster, earlier and holds longer. This makes the fact that I can only get to .4 BAR boost even more annoying. The car is just getting a head of steam at that point and wants to be unleashed!

In the process, I also observed that the alignment of the IC is way off, a problem which is clearly attributable to the uppipe. I think part of the boost issue was related to the poor alignment, throwing the BPV to IC interface a few degrees off. Where the one o-ring might have held fine in perfect alignment, being slightly off kilter seemed to have done it in. In terms of the IC to uppipe interface, I don’t think there was an issue there. It was tight. On reassembly, I liberally lubed all of the o-rings with silicone grease and put it all back together so that everything seated squarely. The seals seem more positive, as well as everything slipping together more easily.

Back to the IC and uppipe alignment: something just isn’t right with the current uppipe solution, which mind you, isn't ideal. We had to cut a stock uppipe and use some turbo hose with clamps to get the IC to work, but things just aren't dialed in the way they should be. As a result, the IC to (top-left) BPV bolt is so far off, even with all three of the IC bolts slack, I had to pull hard on the IC to get the IC/BPV holes to align, so that I could get the threads some purchase. I can easily see that over the longer term, this would very easily lead to the type of crack in the boss on the BPV, that required me to replace my previous one. I also think that this alignment issue is what necessitated the spacer on the BPV/Throttle body bolt.

Now that I have seen it all apart, I’ll give it some thought and see what solutions come to mind. Oh, and I'll get the damned boost control solenoid figured out so I can get some bigger boost!

Same. I don't why I didn't think about it. I have a bunch of the red o rings I'll prolly never use again.

Why don't you swing by. I should be able see what's up. Something is def. amiss if your alignment is that far of that it's breaking sheit. My $ would be on the turbo. Is it a k-27 hybrid ? Anyhow, I have extras of every stock piece of the exhaust and intake, as well as engine tin. It's all just sitting on a shelf and will do so until I sell my car. Which will be never. I'm sure we can get it sorted in short order.

Thanks for the offers, guys! My first order of business is to bolt the IC up without the uppipe and see what it all looks like.

^^^ Good way to start.

Way back when I installed a K27 hybrid and Garretson at the same time, between cutting & welding the turbo support bracket, clocking the turbo, experimenting with different intercooler o'ring and bushing combinations, modifying engine tin openings, and so forth, I probably had over 25 hours in fitting it (maybe more). I can't tolerate stuff that doesn't look right when installed, so part of the time was spent getting the intercooler to sit perfectly level, regardless of if it sealed when "not level" or not (talking using a bubble level, etc., like a true nut case).

Then I spent over 40 hours designing and making an intercooler shroud that I could be happy with - ha ha!

This is next. I plan on CADding it up and taking it to a sheet metal shop to have it water jet cut and brake bent, then off to the powder coater.

One thing at a time.

As you've read, I've been dealing with some knock sensor silliness - turns out the Bosch knock sensors that come OEM from Porsche don't play nice with the Electromotive Tec3r.

In searching for other possibilities, I ran across a guy who makes a translator board that can produce a 5v logic level signal from a Bosch knock sensor (Thanks JPNovak). Based on the duration of the knock event, it goes from 5v to 0V for 30 to 200 ms when knock is detected. If the Tec3r can interpret this kind of signal, then it should work. To confirm this, I reached out to Electromotive.

Good news: The TEC3r can use a 0-5v signal to retard timing, and the scaling is adjustable. So while the engineers are at Electromotive will continue to research if knock control can be programmed natively, the knock board from Viatrack will work!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445892229.jpg

The upshot here is that any aftermarket EMS than can retard timing using a 5V input can use this board to add knock control...cheap!

Pretty cool.

I've come to the conclusion that limiting a k27-7006 to .47 BAR is like pulling out well before you're done. It's amazing getting there, but damn if it isn't disappointing knowing all the goodness you're missing!

An excellent yet painful metaphor.

Enjoyed reading your victories and um... Unvictories. Once you get it nailed you will get nailed.

Too funny, but does that mean you've still got problems building boost after the various o'ring changes (additions)?

Ronnie, boost issues are all resolved. The 7006 is behaving as expected, with boost taking off like a rocket in the low/mid 3Ks. I expect once I have AFR trimmed fueling from the eWUR, knock control and optimized spark curve, that will drop ~500 RPM, which will really suit the power characteristics of the cams. The car is wicked quick already, but you can tell it is just waiting to go apesheet with more boost.

Sounds great!

Progress, progress, progress. Car is back in the shop for 1000 mile tune up after providing me with endless sheets and giggles the last month or so. Lots of stuff already sorted, like the knock sensors. After all of the dicking around, we swapped the Bosch sensors for GM, so all should be working now. Boost control is now operation as well. Will be very interesting to see if the Leask as configured can handle .9 BAR without going lean. I've figured out how to get the frankenWUR operational on the electromotive, so that may be next. I figure that equivalent effort to tuning the Leask.

Finally got sick of my idle being impossible to manage, so am going the 3.6 964 turbo route and using a factory IACV setup. Better is just...better.

In the meantime, wife commentary has led to the purchase of a rarlyl8 muffler with Zork-like outlet. Worth a shot to see if I can leave in the morning without waking the neighbors.

The biggest bummer has been the back window: leaks like a friggin sieve in the rain. I'm thinking of using 3M butyl rubber caulk to try and seal up until I repaint and do it right with a new seal and new rear window (operational rear defrost, imagine that!).

The other few other odds and ends getting sorted have to do with a clunk in the rear end when cornering, but we're really getting close to details now.

Onward! Should be test driving on full boost next week. Pray for my soon to be corrupted soul.

I have a huge roll of that 3M stuff.

Just put a new seal in. Its easy compared to all the engine stuff you have already done. You certainly don't want leaks with that weather you have this time of year.

btw. Put some boost into that car already. We are tired of waiting.

Hey Keni - we'll have to meet up some day, you are in the neighborhood!

Pretty sure I've actually been over to your place once...years ago. I bought an old weld-up oil return sump plate from you (I think). It was right around the time the deal for the GT3 went bad with the Oregon outfit that-shall-not-be-named. Ring a bell?

So again - progress. After weighing all options, I decided to do things the right way instead of cobbling $h!t together. Took off the fan and oh-so-gently, we were able to get the (prescribed by electromotive) NPT GM knock sensors in place of metric Bosch sensors, on the 993 knock bars. The sizes were close enough that tapping the threads was doable, in situ.

Here's where we're at:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450194631.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450194645.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450194657.jpg

Should be able to spend some time with the car configuring and tuning for knock and higher boost. Then the fun begins.

Nice work. Sounds amazing.