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IMR-Merlin's Avatar
 
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EFI guys, knock sensor question

I have some open channels on my tech3 and want to run a knock sensor (if even possible). I am in the process of getting my wire harness mocked up and need to run a lead for it.

Can anyone one point me in the right direction on where to mount one and what one to use?

Found this...



Thanks.

Brendon


Last edited by IMR-Merlin; 02-27-2015 at 04:23 PM..
Old 02-27-2015, 04:18 PM
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For my Tec3R, I used OEM 993 knock bars, tapped into the heads. I just used the stock 993 knock sensors.

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Old 02-27-2015, 05:36 PM
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Mounting at the heads like shown is probably the best way, but only makes sense if you have two of them, one for each bank. Otherwise choose the crankcase. At the vent housing is maybe not the best area, lower more in the center and stiffer place is to prefer. There was a thread about this theme not long ago in the turbo forum. Search for it too
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Old 02-28-2015, 12:50 AM
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Thanks.

I'll search. I dont feel like digging too deep into the engine at this time to run the knock sensor.

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Originally Posted by proffighter View Post
Mounting at the heads like shown is probably the best way, but only makes sense if you have two of them, one for each bank. Otherwise choose the crankcase. At the vent housing is maybe not the best area, lower more in the center and stiffer place is to prefer. There was a thread about this theme not long ago in the turbo forum. Search for it too
Old 02-28-2015, 06:21 AM
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Penny wise, pound foolish to not do it right.
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Old 02-28-2015, 09:26 AM
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The ideal place that people use is under the shroud. I think it depends on what year you have, but I had an unused threaded hole next to the breather cover that I was able to use for mine.
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Last edited by dos531; 02-28-2015 at 09:55 AM..
Old 02-28-2015, 09:52 AM
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Considering the way the system WAS set up, no O2 sensor or knock sensor.... I should be much better off than before.

Most of the knock sensors that I have dealt with over the years have been block mounted.

But I get your drift...

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Penny wise, pound foolish to not do it right.
Old 02-28-2015, 10:01 AM
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Block mounted knock sensors are typically used in integrated block configurations, meaning cylinder and block are one piece. Porsche motors with separate cylinders have a smaller transmission surface for knock frequencies. I'm sure it will work, but you'll get a cleaner signal close to the knock source, which is why Porsche put bosses for the knock bars right on the cylinders.
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Old 02-28-2015, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenikh View Post
For my Tec3R, I used OEM 993 knock bars, tapped into the heads. I just used the stock 993 knock sensors.

Kenikh,

I think its the way I'll go.

Cheers

JJ
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:13 AM
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Got it.

But for me to do the 993 sensor, I will have to source the knock bars and remove all 6 heads to drill and tap. Correct?

Might be the way to go when i do a rebuild on the engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenikh View Post
Block mounted knock sensors are typically used in integrated block configurations, meaning cylinder and block are one piece. Porsche motors with separate cylinders have a smaller transmission surface for knock frequencies. I'm sure it will work, but you'll get a cleaner signal close to the knock source, which is why Porsche put bosses for the knock bars right on the cylinders.
Old 02-28-2015, 11:30 AM
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You could do it in place... But I wouldn't try it.

FWIW, Pelican sells these new @ $45/ea
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenikh View Post
You could do it in place... But I wouldn't try it.

FWIW, Pelican sells these new @ $45/ea
I may be looking at the wrong one but it look like it.

Cylinder Bridge 99310439100 @ $20.50

#5 of http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?command=show_parts_image&Headers_Id=38717&Line_Item_Number=5

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Last edited by JJ 911SC; 02-28-2015 at 11:57 AM..
Old 02-28-2015, 11:55 AM
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Looks right! Hell has frozen over: A Porsche part got cheaper!
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenikh View Post
Looks right! Hell has frozen over: A Porsche part got cheaper!
I'll check with the dealership on Monday.

The exchange rate is killing a lot of business in border town. I pickup a PP order on Wednesday and the UPS store in Ogdensburg is deserted. They went from 1000's package a day to 100's...
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Old 02-28-2015, 12:07 PM
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Thanks for all the help. I think I will look for a crank case location for now and go with the head bridge when I do the rebuild.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenikh View Post
You could do it in place... But I wouldn't try it.

FWIW, Pelican sells these new @ $45/ea
Old 02-28-2015, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dos531 View Post
The ideal place that people use is under the shroud. I think it depends on what year you have, but I had an unused threaded hole next to the breather cover that I was able to use for mine.
Hey, that's my engine
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930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 03-01-2015, 01:41 AM
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Quote:


Quote de kenikh



You could do it in place... But I wouldn't try it.



FWIW, Pelican sells these new @ $45/ea


I may be looking at the wrong one but it look like it.



Cylinder Bridge 99310439100 @ $20.50



#5 of http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?command=show_parts_image&Headers_Id= 38717&Line_Item_Number=5



Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI
GTFO! Only $40 for the pair? What am I missing?!?!

Old 03-01-2015, 04:20 AM
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