How to seal K27 adapter?

[puddy]

I've been having a power loss and this weekend discovered my K27 adapter and the pipe above it were lifting slightly causing a boost leak. Can I put some silicone adhesive inside the K27 adapter flange then press it onto the turbo? The way the mounting flange is designed there shouldn't be any way for silicone to get down into the turbo. This connection wasn't a great fit when I got it as the casting on the turbo wasn't perfectly round. I had to do some filing. Thanks.

[xbmwguy]

I remember mine had an o- ring

[puddy]

Mine also has the O-ring but it still doesn't fit right and is coming up enough to create leak. I thought a little black RTV silicone maybe would help. I was curious if others had done the same.

[RarlyL8]

We re-designed that adapter due to fitment issues from the various suppliers that I used to use.
To do it right you need to remove the adapter, smooth out the turbo outlet housing and replace the 2 O-rings. It should be a very tight fit when complete. The outlet lip on the turbo capture the O-ring completely. Be methodical and lube with oil or risk slicing the lower O-ring. Porsche used a glue on there adapters back in the 80's and 90's that seemed to work very well.

[T77911S]

factory IC?
can you post a pic.

[JFairman]

When I had one of those I eventually put it on with high temp red silicone gasket sealer. It's a poorly made set up and it leaks a little without glue on it. There is no way to know those crappy things leak until a turbo starts blowing oil because then oil comes out with the air pressure leaking out around the o-rings and you can see that. They all leak a little without sealant... you just can't see or hear it.

Best solution is cut the leaky o-ring holder off the bottom of the charge pipe where the OD is 2" and use an approximately 3" long 2" ID multiply silicone hose with hose clamps or T-bolt clamps in place of it. That also gives some flexibility in movement for the top of the charge pipe to line up with the intercooler inlet and it's o-rings too.

[puddy]

Thanks fellas, I think i'll try the high temp silicone route. My intercooler is customer fabricated and so are the pipes. Silicone is the easiest solution for now. But i'd like to update all my piping at some point, i have some small hoses that are quite old and needing replacement, they'll be leaking at some point too.

[T77911S]

I have a RUF IC
I think my setup I s like the last part of what fairman said.

I have a silicon pipe and I have 2 T clamps (fancy hose clamp) holding together.
went this route when I found mine was leaking.

[T77911S]

here is one way I did it.
I think this rubber piece came from a plumbing supply.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Originally Posted by puddy

. . .But i'd like to update . . . my piping at some point, i have (a) small hose that (is) quite old and needing replacement . . .

???

!!!




Too much pullin', PullinMyPuddy?!?!

[T77911S]

[puddy]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

???

!!!




Too much pullin', PullinMyPuddy?!?!

Heres some pics of my large pipe, try to contain yer excitement Rawknees. 😜

[Uwon]

Ditto.
Tight rubber or neoprene hose with a couple of really good clamps. Leave the O-ring in.
Works well.
Johan

[puddy]

Uh oh here's what's left of my rubber adapter ring I don't think it could go thru the turbo. Since it was on the outside of the mounting flange. It was intact the last time I assembled it. Probably got blown out on my last drive. I hope :/

Think I could seal this up the void with red high temp silicon and hopefully seal the whole thing up good?

[boosted79]

Originally Posted by T77911S

here is one way I did it.
I think this rubber piece came from a plumbing supply.

OT T779 what are you running for max timing? - I see your boost retard pot is disconnected

I see your dizzy slot has a lot more room left in it than mine, I have my boost pot connected and static is at -5 and lock nut is almost at the end of the slot.