911 SC Engine Removal

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Did you remove the circlip off the clutch levers then remove the short lever as the spring lever is an idle arm, and possibly pinned in place. If you have a pin in the spring arm, once you’re separated, remove the pin and don’t replace. Reinstalling, the spring arm need to be cleaned and lubed to idle on the vertical.
Now, it is possible that the large arm is frozen on the vertical and not free to spin.
If all else fails, pull the 9 8mm Allen bolts off the pressure plate through the starter hole
Bruce

Now I read this! That Helper Spring really changes things. I had a 1976 911s and the shaft just turned as j pulled the Trans from the Engine. But this 1982 911sc has that Helper spring (does make the clutch less of a Man Sport to use) and I looked in the Haynes and the Bentley and gave up and “Exactly” As you said Removed the Allen bolts that holds the Clutch Pressure plate and separated the Trans from the Engine!

My question is, can you put it back together that way!

[Flat6pac]

Once you remove the lever from the vertical the shaft is free to rotate.
When you’re putting trans back on make sure the fingers engage the TOB properly
Don’t try to free hand the clutch cover bolts back in, really complicate the easy
Bruce

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Once you remove the lever from the vertical the shaft is free to rotate.
When you’re putting trans back on make sure the fingers engage the TOB properly
Don’t try to free hand the clutch cover bolts back in, really complicate the easy
Bruce

Thank you Bruce! I am only used to the Pre 1977 Clutch But my wife surely appreciates the Helper spring. And yes I did want to Fully Service the Shafts before replacement.

One thing I still do not understand isbthe Spring pin? You say remove it and leave it out! Then why is it there and what will be the Effect from leaving it out? Thanks!

[Flat6pac]

The later models didn’t use the pin at all.
You need, at times, to pull the lever off and lube under it because dry it will bond to the vertical and really make engaging the clutch difficult
Bruce

[Dr J]

Congrats on the drop, but you may yet have to drop the transmission. If you thought taking the engine out was tough, getting it back in with the transmission in the car is a bear. I have done a few drops and one time left the transmission in. My logic was that that way I didn’t have to deal with the CV joints. It worked out great up until the point that I could not properly align the engine with the transmission. Ultimately, I had to drop the transmission, mate them together, and install them that way.

If on the tail end of the project you cannot align the engine, it is not too much extra work to drop the transmission and then button everything up. Hopefully, you will beat the odds!

[Walt Fricke]

My biggest issue with reinstalling the engine with the transmission in place has been getting the clutch release fingers properly engaged in their channel in the TOB. It is really easy with the engine and transmission on the garage floor - you can see what is happening, especially if you leave the starter off. With the tranny in the car, a borescope helps - much better than using flash lights and mirrors. If you do it enough, you can develop the touch. Otherwise, patience.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

The later models didn’t use the pin at all.
You need, at times, to pull the lever off and lube under it because dry it will bond to the vertical and really make engaging the clutch difficult
Bruce

Glad I asked. I will do this work and never had not planned to. I always like to take advantage of an Opportunity to make something New again.

A new Question! Like my 1976 this 1982 used a Gasket but had Open CV Joints. (The Grease is in the Joint and Hubs they attach to. But now I see metal Covers on the End of some CV Joints that keep everything a lot more sanitary. Can these be used on the SC’s? Any problem with using them? Where can I buy them?

[Flat6pac]

The described halfshafts that are covered on the ends are used on mid 86 on. The hubs are 10mm bolts, not 8mm as your pre 86 uses.
With the open halfshafts there is impregnated paper gaskets that go in between the cv and the hubs. Be sure to retorque the bolts after a few miles as the gaskets change and the bolts loosen.
Don’t want to be down the road and have a halfshafts separate.
Bruce

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

The described halfshafts that are covered on the ends are used on mid 86 on. The hubs are 10mm bolts, not 8mm as your pre 86 uses.
With the open halfshafts there is impregnated paper gaskets that go in between the cv and the hubs. Be sure to retorque the bolts after a few miles as the gaskets change and the bolts loosen.
Don’t want to be down the road and have a halfshafts separate.
Bruce

👍🏾👍🏾 I do not know whether to feel Good or Bad! Bad that I cannot use them or Good that I do not need to look Farther.

Maybe one day “They” will make them for the earlier Cars with the 8 mm Bolts. Thank you “Again”. I plan to post a thread showing what I am doing soon. I have it on FB, but maybe here is a Better place where it is understood AND Someone (a Lot Of People) Know more than me!

[Flat6pac]

Challenge...
It would work for you like this
Possess the half shafts, they come with the spline shaft on the outer end, nut and washers with them.
The challenge is finding the large fine spline drive flanges off the transmission.
The bolts are Allen, 10mmx 50mm
Part number. Drive flange. 930 332 209 05
Application
930/36 or 37
915/72 or 73
Bruce

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Challenge...
It would work for you like this
Possess the half shafts, they come with the spline shaft on the outer end, nut and washers with them.
The challenge is finding the large fine spline drive flanges off the transmission.
The bolts are Allen, 10mmx 50mm
Part number. Drive flange. 930 332 209 05
Application
930/36 or 37
915/72 or 73
Bruce

Beyond my pay Grade. One day someone will make the end Covers for the 8mm Bolt CV Joints and I will be one of their first customers.

[subseamark]

Can someone please tell me how to remove the pressure plate as seen in photo. I assume I need to take the 9 allen bolts off the flywheel. Any suggestions how to get the bolts off? They are very stubborn. Heat?

[Walt Fricke]

I've never had an issue. Use an impact wrench. Just be careful you get the Allen fully inserted so you don't round things off.

Or purchase one of the impact tools which look sort of like fat steel screwdriver with a socket for the end pieces to fit into. You operate it by inserting an Allen end piece into the Allen fastener, holding the handle tightly, and whacking the end with a big hammer. This causes the mechanism inside to turn the Allen end piece. And it helps keep the Allen well in the socket. Once started, easy to complete with usual methods.

I suppose you could use heat, but to be effective I think you'd need to apply it to the side of the flywheel next to the bolt you were working on, and that is awfully close to the aluminum of the case. A propane torch can melt aluminum if applied long enough, and you can't count on a glowing color to give you an idea of how hot the aluminum is getting the way you can with steel.

[sig_a]

Hello 911 folks. It's been a number of years since posting here, and I need a little help.

I've owned my 1987 911 Carrera for about 12 years, and I am thinking its time to remove the engine and gearbox. I have a reasonable amount of experience, and many tools.

And since I prefer lifting the car at the corners using 4 hydraulic jacks and stands, I was wondering about 4 corner lifting to remove engine long block, with attached G50, after the intake and exhaust system is removed.

Seems all the research follows the same method of raising just the rear far enough to clear the entire engine, I don't see the advantage. What am I missing?

[Quinlan]

Most jack stands won't lift the car high enough to get the engine out if you use them on all four corners. If you just lift the rear, the rear bumper will be higher than it would be when you lift all four corners.

Without the intake you might be ok though.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by sig_a

Hello 911 folks. It's been a number of years since posting here, and I need a little help.

I've owned my 1987 911 Carrera for about 12 years, and I am thinking its time to remove the engine and gearbox. I have a reasonable amount of experience, and many tools.

And since I prefer lifting the car at the corners using 4 hydraulic jacks and stands, I was wondering about 4 corner lifting to remove engine long block, with attached G50, after the intake and exhaust system is removed.

Seems all the research follows the same method of raising just the rear far enough to clear the entire engine, I don't see the advantage. What am I missing?

Sig,

What you are missing is EXPERIENCE. If you prefer to remove the engine/trans by raising the four corners, that’s OK. But you have to find 4 jack stands high enough to allow the motor to slide out freely. There was a guy who built wooden blocks to raise the car resting on four wheels. There are several ways and methods you could do this. But most important work safely.

My only suggestion at this point, remove the engine and transmission together. I have interviewed close to 75 individuals regarding their preferred methods in removing a 911 motor. Some of these individuals are experienced Porsche shop owners with incredible credentials that most of us here could only dreamed of. They all drop the engine/transmission as a unit.

So I asked some of them why people removed the engine only? ANSWER: For bragging rights. If removing the engine alone is more efficient, easier and quicker, they would have all done this procedure to save time and make more money (these are not my words). Remember mechanics are paid per job assignment so they find the quickest way to finish the work.

Tony

[sig_a]

Thanks Tony. Its always been my plan to remove 3.2 and G50 as one unit.

But I think stripping the engine down to the long block prior to removal provides numerous advantages, particularly if lifting evenly from four corners. For example, lighter weight, lower clearance, easier engine stand mounting, safer, ect.

I think the narrow dimension of the long block is roughly half the height of the entire engine. So I think the jack stand height should not be a problem. But I could be wrong.

I welcome other opinions.

[Xiranu]

By lifting only the rear of the car and not all four corners you get an angle between the floor and the car. My experience is that angle is needed to be able to pull the engine (with or without transaxle). The angle gives more clearance in the engine bay and studs or transaxle connection in tunnel is much more easy to disengage.
If the car is level it is more difficult get the clearance angle needed.

Just my really limited experience. I have a lift and thought a single pallet could remove the unit, but I had to block up the front part to clear the rear body part.

[Discseven]

Impressive to get engine-only out on first pull Sub. Hats off to you!

[$yncro]

I’m in the process of engine with trans removal on my 80
911 sc, been reading up on this thread. Seems like there’s a lot
Of knowledgeable people here. I’ve disconnected everything but
The spring and clutch arm under the transmission. Since The
Engine is coming out with trans..do I still have to remove the arm?
Thanks in advance.