nose 8 bearing o-ring leak

[garibaldi]

Thats it, I am done. I am not going to get into a pissing contest. Take it for what it was worth, just trying to lend some advice on how to do the job properly.

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally posted by garibaldi
Thats it, I am done. I am not going to get into a pissing contest. Take it for what it was worth, just trying to lend some advice on how to do the job properly.

[B]

Hi Christian
There are all forms of "properly" and I was just telling everyone that measuring your project is the key and there are very few " must dos" on these engine. Each engine has it's own problems. The must dos are what cost extra money and by my way of thinking " very few people have extra money".

P.S. I sent you an engine overhaul this A.M. He is in NJ so I thought he could save some shipping. I hope it works out for you.

[garibaldi]

I appreciate for the referral. I will keep you posted if it works out.

[Wayne 962]

Just a note - Engine Shops don't compete with Pelican (well, not directly), and the input is very valuable on the board here for our customers. It also works both ways - you guys can get a ton of referrals and "free" publicity if you play your cards right.

My point - I have stricter standards for this Engine Rebuild Forum than the others - I really want to keep it clean, nice and polite. No one has stepped over the line yet, but I just want to remember everyone to play nice. If someone disagrees, then agree to disagree. I have learned (the hard way) that people will fight to the death on issues like head studs, rod bolts, CIS, etc. Just not worth it - there will be differing opinions.

-Wayne

[Wayne 962]

Originally posted by Henry Schmidt
Porsche Engine Warranty
.

TWO YEAR, UNLIMITED MILE PARTS AND LABOR
1. Normal use [no racing, no abuse, damage by over rev not covered ]
2. Damaged caused by lack of oil not covered.
3. No towing or labor cost associated with any repair not completed by Supertec Performance is expressly excluded
4. In-house (all repairs must be performed at Supertec Performance unless written authorization is received prior to repair.) shipping costs are owners responsibility
5. Call or fax for authorization and shipping instructions [numbers below]
6. Porsches leak oil, so minor oil leaks are excluded. Major oil leaks covered.
(Minor leaks defined as moisture not dripping, if it drips it's covered)
7. Piston ring damage due to poor fuel excluded
8. Normal ware items not covered
9. Clutch defects covered 2 years, wear covered for 2 year or 15,000 miles (which ever comes first)
10. Electrical parts carry manufacturers warranty
11. Over boost damage not covered [ turbo only].

That's a pretty darn good warranty. I just hope no one abuses and takes advantage of it.

-Wayne

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts
That's a pretty darn good warranty. I just hope no one abuses and takes advantage of it.

-Wayne

You're right, it is possible to take advantage of this warranty. As you can probably tell I'm an easy mark.
Sometimes in life you just put out a fair product, for fair people and deal with whatever comes up. We all encounter people who try to take advantage of other people. I'm not certain my warranty is something that is overly attractive to that type of person. At least not so far.

[Fishcop]

Christian and Henry, you have both impressed the hell out of me with your technical and practical knowledge... I just wish we had this kind of knowledge and sevice over here on the other side of the Pacific

Thanks for being here.

[Henry Schmidt]

Thank you fishcop.
BY THE WAY, WE SHIP ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD AND SHIPPING IS CHEAPER THAN YOU THINK

Fishcop are you a park ranger?

[Fishcop]

When I first signed up I was a Fisheries Inspector (ergo Fishcop)

I now work as a plain clothes investigator for the Department of Natural Resources doing much more than just fish.

The handle has stuck though....

PS Will definitely be interested in your headstuds next rebuild!

[emcon5]

--Hijack

Christian, is the flat black Turbo you have listed for sale in Pano the one that was in the"Excellence" article? For $20K it seems like someone will be getting a good deal.

Tom

[AndreasLanghoff]

Closing note:

The engine was reassembled with:
- original 4x50 mm o-ring
- a very thin layer of Curil Dirko around the o-ring area, keeping well clear of the oil pressure hole and pressure relief channel in the nose 8 bearing.
- case halves with Loctite 574

everything is fine now, after running the engine for more than 2 hours and heating it up porperly the engine is bone dry. No leak in sight!!

Thank you for all the info on this forum

Andreas

[ChrisBennet]

Congrats Andreas! I'm sorry for your suffering but it was a great education for the rest of us.
-Chris

[Fishcop]

Good thread Andreas, thanks!

[AndreasLanghoff]

Closing note 2:
In March 2006, after at least 10000km on the engine, sealing is still bone dry! No problems any more.

Andreas

[sand_man]

This is great info. I'm planning to follow Henry's case sealing methods to the "T". However in regards to number 8 nose bearing and the application of ThreeBond 1211, I can't seem to get my hands around the proper way to do it!!!

A: Is it applied to the bearing itself...just the area that the o-ring is in?
B: Is the entire bearing surface (well the part of the bearing that rests on the case) covered?
C: Is the entire number 8 case surface covered (the number 8 bearing saddle)?

Please advise experts!!! I'm so afraid that I'll do more harm than good if I screw this part up!

Thanks,
Jeff

[cgarr]

This is what Henry told me, I had the same question:

On #8 do you add 1211 around the oring area or the whole bearing surface? ""Very thin coat around entire bearing surface"".

[sand_man]

Great! Then what I'll do is apply a thin coat to actual bearing saddle on the case...both case halves.

[shbop]

What a great thread!

Fishcop, don't feel too bad, or alone. I'm in Hawaii, and finding a machine shop to do case work is impossible. Aloha, Jon

[stevepaa]

Just my 2 cents. Why would anyone put any sealant inward of the o-ring? Let the oil flow that way naturally if it gets there. Any misplaced sealant will get pushed into the oil return channel and block it. The only place I put a little curil was on the outermost edge of #8 and used o-ring lubricant on the o-ring so it can move freely to preclude pinching.

[village idiot]

Originally posted by shbop
What a great thread!

Fishcop, don't feel too bad, or alone. I'm in Hawaii, and finding a machine shop to do case work is impossible. Aloha, Jon

I'm in the same boat as you. I really don't trust any of the local shops here(I've heard and seen Pele Bug's work).
If I need to get my cases done Henry will get my business.