I would do both because it skins over pretty quick


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Thanks! Will do.

Have a great thanksgiving.

Bo

I only used it once, see what the min temp you can apply it at, if it’s 50 I would apply it as cold as they allow giving you more time to assemble


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One side only as per TB instructions.
Cleanliness is paramount.
Apply a moderate bead and spread it evenly. I use my finger to insure that the sealant is adhering.

Link to the instructions? None in my box... Or are you referring to the fine print on the tube?

It's 50 -60 degrees in my garage... What do you figure safe working time is? Seen posts mention 10 minutes to 30 minutes

The instructions are printed in the package.
"apply as thinly and evenly as possible"
I interpret that to mean, coating one side is thinner than coating both.
As far as work time: I apply the sealant and put the case together quickly. If you're set up and ready to go, time shouldn't be an issue.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1511397815.jpg

I've decided to use Threebond 1211 on my #8 nose bearing during assembly and wanted to verify where to put it exactly - on both halves @ the case bearing web all around? Is it better to try NOT to get it on the o-ring or OK to get it on the o-ring? Is it OK if it get's in/near the oil supply hole in the case & in the bearing itself? Super thin coat so as not to mess w/tolerances as much as possible...?

Just want to be clear so I have the best chance for success.

Also, I'm assuming that doing this slightly amends the assembly procedure and timing as the crank has to be OUT of the case in order to apply the 1211 in the nose bearing area, THEN the crank goes in the case, THEN you apply the perimeter & main bearing web sealant, THEN you mate the case halves... All of which adds an extra step or 2 during the scramble to mate the case halves before the sealant goes off - is that correct?

Thanks so much,

Tom

Tom, I have only done a couple engines, but they are not leaking.. yet.. and I used 1211, 1104 and 574.
I put the 574 on the main bearing web surfaces first since it wont go off until absence of O2... then I applied a very thin coating of 1211 to the nose bearing itself all around(bearing is on the crank, but not in the case), being careful not to get it on the o-ring.. if a tiny bit gets on, it shouldnt matter. Then I quickly get the 1104 on the perimeter, then crank goes in, and it all gets buttoned up.

Pretty sure that is the process you had outlined above. To speed it up, I put my through bolts all in and torqued down, without putting the o-rings on.. then went back one at a time, and removed each through bolt and put the o-ring on. All this did was save a bit of time in getting the case torqued down. I am sure that the pros don't need to do this step and work a lot faster than I.

Thanks Mike, that's more or less as I assumed...

A further #8 O-ring question - so if the 1211 goes on the nose bearing itself, avoiding the O-ring as much as possible, the O-ring is essentially getting installed dry?

The reason I ask is that in my test-fittings of the crank in the right case-half, I've been having issues pinching the #8 O-ring to the point of cutting it. (Try finding a replacement viton #8 O-ring outside of a full engine rebuild seal kit - it's not easy!) Test fitting w/a little oil on the o-ring provided much better results...

So, I guess my question is: using this method, is the O-ring installed dry? and if yes, what's the technique to doing it cleanly w/out slicing and/or pinching the O-ring between the case halves?

Thanks,
Tom

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1519140676.jpg

On my 3.6 rebuild I put some Dow 111 grease on the o-ring, well on all the o-rings in the engine.

Hi Magnus, did you use just Dow 111 at the #8 bearing or in addition to Threebond 1211?
Thanks,
Tom

Just the 111 on the o-ring, not saying that is right, probably not...but its dry at the moment.

Dow Corning 111 on the o-ring is a great choice. The silicone paste of course lubricates the o-ring and also protects the rubber from long term oil contamination/degradation.

Bump...cuz I need this thread.


MattR

yeah this needs a sticky like the no start thread in the turbo forum

Hi everyone,

First time 911 engine rebuilder.

Has anyone made a start to finish video of themselves applying the currently recommended sealants and assembling the case halves? An assistant holding a modern cellphone from a location where they would not interfere?

Thanks,

Mark. 1989 911 3.2

well, i do not have start to finish but check my videos , applying the 576 loctite..only to one side of the engine case..the one without the oil pump

Ivan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IandhtwG5no
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoOEFOkC2aA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STWf7WnC4xo

engine case marriage....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKsuUBZih78

Some of you might find this interesting.

I recently helped open a factory sealed 996 99/00 cup car engine. The engine had nearly 400 hours on it with the factory seal intact.

They clearly used a silicone sealant vs the normal 574 and there were lots of strands of sealant everywhere. Just thought I would share. The engine overall was in great shape minus the 20% leak down in each cylinder and it being down 100 hp. Some wear on teh bearings but not bad considering the number of hours and about 19k track miles.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546699407.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546699407.JPG

These are the strands we removed from the inside of the case. Curious what everyones opinion is regarding this since this is so similar to the earlier cases especially 964/993.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546699629.JPG

Factory recommended case sealant, but it looks like young Dietter was a little heavy on the application.

SI 5900 is a superior RTV, squeeze out doesn't swell from oil and when applied properly any squeeze out stays put. I even think the long strands from to much sealant may be by design, it doesn't break off in chunks small enough to get past the pump screen. You will have fun removing that RTV, it doesn't like to come off, even after soaking in diesel.
Torn down quite a few 996/997 engines and have seen the same, but it was never part of the issue.

RTV gets a bad rap because peeps only think of the permatex stuff, but Threebond, (yamabond) is RTV, so are many others.
Loctite SI 5900 is factory spec, LN recommends it, look at Raby's vids...that's what he's using.
I use it on 996/997 case halves, plus I rub it into (no excess) many paper gaskets I install. It's definitely not the same as the old permatex.

I appreciate the response. I don't recall seeing SI 5900 in the manuals but just at the tear down and inspection stage so sealants are a number of weeks out also depends on if we repair it as stock or update to the 01- hydraulic lifters and larger valves. We have most everything we need EBS can get me the rest.

So Loctite is superior to the (yamabond, hondbond, threebond) whatever you want to call it?

Thx