I never split that case I don't know .. I am surprised there is any sealant on an oil pump oring .. I mean it is inside the engine > would expect oil everywhere anyway .

I actually used a small amount of 574 on one side of the oil pump o-rings just to keep them secured to the pump and case while joining the case-half's. The 574 keeps the 3 o-rings from jumping off.

The Supertec Sealant Kit is great because it includes everything you'll need when sealing your case. We have it HERE for anyone who is interested.

I will add one comment to the thread .

I used the yamabond in place of the 574 as I had heard of leaks using the Loctite 574.

574 is completely anerobic. a month later after I sealed the engine the 574 can still be wiped off ( or washed away with oil in the engine ) an do no harm.

The yamabond I used on the other side in fact hardedned ( semi ) with exposure to oxygen , so it would be possible for chunks to come off . For more peace of mind I would use the yamabond on the cam tower to head interface only and use the 574 that coat all gaskets that get exposed to inside of the engine ...

just my 2c.

I wouldn't use a hardening sealant on the pump o-rings. Use something like a small dab of sticky Curil T or silicone paste to make them stick a bit, which assists with assembly.

Regarding 574 on the outside like the case perimeter, yes it doesn't cure. I have a brush sitting on the shelf above my workbench I purposely left in a jar of pens & pencils & other misc things. The brush has been subjected to 574 for like 6 years now and still hasn't hardened. But there are places where it does cure where you wouldn't expect it to, both outside the engine and inside, and I don't think the oil washes it away. You can find sites of hardened sealant around the valleys where the cam housing meets the wet part of the heads. That sealant squeeze out stays right there near the valve springs and gets brown & hard. Also look at the underside of a cam housing where the excess squeezes out to the edges that are exposed to the atmosphere. These are the "dry" areas of the housing. The 574 hardens there too.

I once tried the brown Permatex "aviation sealant" on the cam housings and it worked well to seal and goes on nice & thin (574 is actually quite easy to over-apply here). But when the brown Permatex gets warm, any excess squeeze out runs and drips down the parts.

I find it interesting that Yamabond is recommended for the outer case halves and the head to cam housings. Why is Yamabond recommended when silicon seal is verboten? Same stuff, no?

Aviation Permatex? The last time I used that, 40 years ago, it was MIA two years later when I tore the motor down.

Still making it after all these years

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-aviation-form-a-gasket-no-3-sealant-liquid/

sealed with a kit.....
 

I just completed a rebuild on a stock 3.0, using the Supertec sealing kit and I highly recommend it. Not a drop!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmGO_GnyWtI

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1463681174.jpg

regards,
al

Al Kosmal
the x-faktory
koz@x-faktory.com
RGruppe #669
X-Faktory - Home

Gosh, back in the day, I think that was the stuff I used on my aircooled VW (type 1) engines! I think!? Been many years!

It works OK. Not endorsing it as being better than any of the other tried and true sealant solutions listed here. Just saying it's a suitable alternative if someone were to ask and wanted to use it in a pinch.

I think it's a lot like Curil T in how it behaves. Sticky, non-hardening, similar solvent smell (don't get any ideas and huff on this stuff...), easy cleanup with brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, etc. Goes on a bit thinner than, and not quite as sticky as Curil T and I like that about it. Me personally i've never been much of a fan of that Curil T stuff for anything.

I used the stuff to seal up my carb on my old air cooled bike , is that the reddish stuff ? I think I still have it :)

come o think of it I found the same thing when I stripped down my engine. maybe it is a combination of lack of oxygen and heat that cures it then. Any how , on with the rebuild.

From what I read on the msds sheets the threebond 1104/84/94 family is a rubber sealant. Different chemical makeup apparently. They are not silicone sealants.

I would concur by feel , very stiff once cured , feels more like rubber than silicon.

Hi guys,

So nice post ! tahnk all

Any advice for this one ? (leak on my 911)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...oners/pic2.jpg

That ring looks swollen. Did you use the Dow Corning grease on it? If so, that is likely why. See my previous post in this thread. Try a new ring with a non-reactive grease such as Krytox. Also check the integrity of the hole on the outer chain cover to make sure it's intact. If the banjo surface is fouled then I would sand it flat again using fine grit wet sand paper and then clean thoroughly after. A separate thread topic might be better to track progress and to keep this one clean. Best of luck.

Will assembly lube or motor oil work here. Mine needs replacing and was planning on using brake assembly grease SylGlide on it.

Use SilGlyde no problem. Perfect application for the stuff.

Outstanding!

or curil -t