Cylinder cooling tins

4sd911 · 12:01 AM

I forgot to install the cylinder cooling tins on on side. Will need to remove the tower and heads to install. Any problems with reinstalling the tower and heads as one unit? As I'd rather not have to clean the loctite off, but if I have then I have to.

ETA: I assume the cylinder head gasket (GE rings) will need to be replaced?

tom1394racing · 04-07-2010, 02:45 AM

It's standard practice to remove the cam tower and heads as one unit.

4sd911 · 04-07-2010, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom1394racing

It's standard practice to remove the cam tower and heads as one unit.

I assume there shouldn't be any problem putting it back on as one unit?

Eagledriver · 04-07-2010, 10:06 AM

You are correct. Just check for cam binding as you torque the headstuds. If they bind try torquing them in a different order.

-Andy

sc_rufctr · 04-08-2010, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4sd911

I forgot to install the cylinder cooling tins on on side. Will need to remove the tower and heads to install. Any problems with reinstalling the tower and heads as one unit? As I'd rather not have to clean the loctite off, but if I have then I have to.

ETA: I assume the cylinder head gasket (GE rings) will need to be replaced?

Are you sure you need to remove the tower to install the cooling tins?

4sd911 · 04-08-2010, 02:45 PM

Is done no issues just slid the whole unit on. I didn't think there would be any issues just thought I'd check here to see if anyone else had tried this and if there were any problems.

The oil return tubes are in the way of just sliding them in place.

Thanks all for the help.

Flat6pac · 04-08-2010, 05:36 PM

You can bend the tin around the oil return tubes, saves time when a mistake is made...
Bruce

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

I seem to remember doing this on my first build....

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

Supertec has a 906 style replace cooling tin kit that can be installed after the long block is assembled.
The cooling tin was designed to fit the 906 cylinders. We believe they promote better cooling. They are made by a US fabrication shop that makes some of our other products.
They come in two sizes. 2.0-2.7 and 3.0-3.5

turbo nut · 04-08-2010, 08:52 PM

I've seen many a cam tower with the dowel pin holes screwed up from installing it after the heads have been installed. I would say that installing as a unit is correct way of doing it. What do others think?

4sd911 · 04-08-2010, 10:22 PM

Revisiting the factory manual it does give two procedures, one as a unit (towers & heads) and one separately. I would be interested in which version the experienced use.

Flat6pac · 04-09-2010, 04:19 AM

If you look at the old factory production lines pictures there is heads stacked up with cam towers, heads, cam and rockers all pre assembled.
Remember, its still production and man hours removes profit from the company so subassemblies is necessary in production.
Bruce

Walt Fricke · 04-09-2010, 10:06 PM

Henry

The 3.2s and later have an extra piece of cylinder head tin - the long wavy strips which basically fit over the case throughbolts and some of the bottoms of the cylinders.

I don't happen to have those for my slowly developing 2.8SS, though I had scrounged a set and put them on my 2.7 race motor. I assume that the farther down the cylinder you go, the cooler it is (relatively speaking), so these send more cooling air toward the upper cylinder area? Reduce the temperature differential, reduce thermal dimension changes some?

How useful do you think those pieces are? Do fine without them? Don't leave home without them? Maybe?

Walt

Walt Fricke · 04-09-2010, 10:23 PM

Oh, and 4SD - don't you just hate that?

One good reason to have some two piece oil return tubes on hand is forgetting to put those in before installing the cam carrier.

Those two piece tubes may help deal with this situation also, because having no tubes will give you more room.

Some of the tiin pieces should just slip in.

I'm thinking one or both of the end pieces can be the trickiest. If you flatten the punch-outs some, where the spring clip holders grab, you can get them on more easily. A small screw driver should allow you to reopen them enough to hold the clips.

No one has opined on the CE rings, if you decide to pull the heads off. I once pulled the heads off of one side (they won't work well upside down - I blame it on the evil effects of a really nice engine stand, where you do one side and just spin the engine over, standing in the same place, and do the other side same way, forgetting . . . . . .).

Not having put any heat into the engine at that point (obviously), and considering that they aren't exactly cheap, I just crossed my fingers and reused them. Didn't have any bad results like head leaks, burned sealing surfaces, or other nightmares. All looked fine at next rebuild time.

If you decide to pull the heads, doing that as a unit with the carrier would be the way to go for sure. With normal rebuilds you want the heads off individually to work on them or whatnot, and with all three heads on the carrier it is starting to get a bit heavy. But I don't think it has any drawbacks other than weight, and certainly is a time saver when you aren't going to fuss with the heads/valves and so on.

4sd911 · 04-10-2010, 12:11 AM

Walt, I've got the job done, just removed and re-installed the whole unit. I figured the CE rings (or is it GE?) would be OK but I just bought new ones anyway. I'm kind of interested in what turbo nut brought up, can/should the heads be installed on the bench first and then install the tower and heads as an assembly? Henry's tin kit is real slick, if I was further down the road this would of been a great option.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

I don't think there is any "should" regarding the cam towers to heads on the bench thing. "Can" is another thing, and would be personal preference.

I just did mine last weekend on the engine. I set the heads on the studs, and fingered the head nuts on. So, in essence, they were "floating". Then, did the sealant thing and popped the cam towers on-torqued them down, then torqued the heads. In my simple mind, the assembling on the engine seems easier, but then again, I've not done it on the bench.

4sd911 · 04-10-2010, 09:11 AM

That's how I do it. The heads need to move a bit so they can align to the dowel pin holes.

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

We assemble engines using both methods. For us it's a matter of logistics. Assembling the heads on the bench allows us to continue to assemble an engine in the absence of a completed long block. Assembling the heads on the engine allows you to test cam alignment to ensure proper engine dimensions more easily. Both methods have merit.6 of one half dozen of the other. Coin toss the choice is yours.

Walt Fricke · 04-10-2010, 01:16 PM

CE rings, but don't ask me where those initials come from. Spare parts catalogs gave no hints of German words which might fit. The C is the shape of the non-spring part.

Flat6pac · 04-11-2010, 05:46 AM

This is the way I ve done it for years. I use to not put the cam and rockers in but I can pre assemble everything on the table, even set the valve lash. I cant put the chain box on early but I can put it with the heads as theyre going on.
Bruce