Poised to take the leap: case sealing right around the corner

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Well, I goofed around a bit today. I cleaned my case thru bolts, the chain ramp mounting bolts, the intermediate shaft and my oil pump. I also wiped down the case again, and used my index finger to trace along the flange looking for any imperfection that may cause a leak. I then placed my bearings in the case. This took about 2 or 3 hours intermixed with smoking a nice cigar and watching the Rolex race.

Where am I going with this? I think I was sub-consciously stalling in anticipation of putting the halves together. I guess I'm as ready as I ever will be.

I'll have the case sealed by next Saturday for sure.

Eagledriver · 09-15-2007, 08:15 PM

Make sure you remember to put the seals on the oil pump inlet and outlet. Preload the washers and o-rings on the through bolts. Rehearse the entire process before you do the actual case mating.

-Andy

Jeff Alton · 09-15-2007, 11:09 PM

Looking good Ed, I have stood at the cliff many times myself....

Cheers

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eagledriver

Make sure you remember to put the seals on the oil pump inlet and outlet. Preload the washers and o-rings on the through bolts. Rehearse the entire process before you do the actual case mating.

-Andy

The oil pump was just set in place to check fit. I'm test-fitting stuff this week.

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

Don't forget to check the intermediate shaft drive gear to crank gear backlash.
Excess play will cause a knocking noise deep in the engine. This noise will be especially noticeable at idle.
Early SC engine were notorious for the noise.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Thanks Henry. I've got that on my to-do list for when I get the crank and oil pump in this next weekend/

I got all of my hardware together for the assembly, and have the thru case bolts prepped with the Viton seals from Supertec's nice gasket/seal kit:

kirkf · 09-17-2007, 04:24 PM

Everything is looking great so far.

+1 on the:

Quote:

Rehearse the entire process before you do the actual case mating.

Kirk

gigem75 · 09-17-2007, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

Don't forget to check the intermediate shaft drive gear to crank gear backlash.
Early SC engine were notorious for the noise.

Just a note of clarification (terminology), backlash = gearlash?
How would one go about adjusting the lash between the two gears?

Asking because I'm about to join to halves of a 2.2

Jeff Alton · 09-17-2007, 07:39 PM

Rehearse is a very good tip, missing completely from manuals and how to books.

I remember once sealing a case where a rod was trapped........ that really pi$$ed me off! In the heat of the moment I had forgot my rod holder on one rod and it fell over when I put the case halfs together. That was my first, never going to happen again..... I hope

Good luck, I am sure you will be just fine!

Cheers

quint22cp · quint22cp's Garage

Been there done this and no leaks.

Put the sealant on the half without the studs, it's much easier as the studs get in the way, Wayne's book ain't right in this respect.

Don't put any sealant on the mains mating surfaces, Porsche don't do this as it will mess up the bearing clearance and the stuff will get into your oil passages and possibly block the squirter's.

When you get to the through bolts put the black silicone on the bolts but keep it the dry side of the 'o' rings, Wayne's book shows it all over the 'o' rings and this could possibly result in silicone in your oil ways. I have lane awake at night worrying about bearing oil starvation and blocked squirter's as I did it wrong.

Put the oil seals in after bolting up the cases with the correct oil seal fitting tools, trying to juggle them and the case halves together will end up nicking the seals and a leak. Porsche fit them this way.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Actually, I'm going with Henry's sealant recommendations. I've got a special Dow product he buys in bulk for the o-rings, and I'm doing the Loctite 574 on the bearing webs.

Your suggestion about the seal going in after-the-fact is an interesting one. The front is in and installed in the #8 bearing already, so it wouldn't apply to your thought process.

kirkf · 09-18-2007, 12:57 PM

This is the sealing method I used on my case. It is from Henrys recommendations. I would change the flywheel seal procedure to install dry, after assembling the case. Also I would not use the brown victor reinz aftermarket seal. I would buy a factory porsche one instead.

Outer Case Halves: Threebond 1104
Bearing Saddle Surfaces: Loctite 574
#8 Bearing (balancer end) O-Ring: Threebond 1211
Case Thru Bolts: Dow Corning 111 on Green Viton O-Rings
Flywheel Seal: Curil-T? (*** Preferred Dry, Install after case assembly ***)
Balancer Seal: Curil-T
Intermediate Shaft Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211
Oil Breather Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211
Cylinders to Case: Curil K-2 or ThreeBond 1211
Cam Towers to Cylinder Heads: Threebond 1104
Cam Chain Housings to Case: Threebond 1104
Cam Chain Housings to Cam Towers: Threebond 1104
Cam Chain Housing Cover to Cam Chain Housing: Threebond 1104
Gaskets: Thin coat of Loctite 574

Kirk

lv2race · 04-19-2020, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Alton

Rehearse is a very good tip, missing completely from manuals and how to books.

I remember once sealing a case where a rod was trapped........ that really pi$$ed me off! In the heat of the moment I had forgot my rod holder on one rod and it fell over when I put the case halfs together. That was my first, never going to happen again..... I hope

Good luck, I am sure you will be just fine!

Cheers

Been there and done that too 😢

dannobee · 01:07 PM

Thirteen year old thread. Pretty sure he has it back together by now. ;-)

lv2race · 04-19-2020, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannobee

Thirteen year old thread. Pretty sure he has it back together by now. ;-)

I hope so. I’m in the middle of a rebuild and was looking up some information and came across this thread. My next step is putting the case halves together 🤞

Flat6pac · 04-21-2020, 01:19 PM

Put some aircraft permatex on the oil pump O rings to hold them in place.
They fall off easy when you dropping the case half and you can’t see the problem.
I use 574 on the case halves and lower areas on the seals and cam seals.
Bruce

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by lv2race

I hope so. I’m in the middle of a rebuild and was looking up some information and came across this thread. My next step is putting the case halves together 🤞

Look at the sealant thread. The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...

Here's some tips that I don't think anyone has mentioned:

Thoroughly clean out the perimeter bolts holes. Otherwise the hardened Loctite 574 "crumbs" will scrape off and fall on the sealing surface.

I run down the perimeter nuts first and as fast as possible to squeeze the sealant out thin before it can harden. I use normal nuts, not the locking ones for this. *Then* I tighten and torque the case thru bolts. [Yes, this doesn't make sense but it works for me.]

After I've done this, I replace the perimeter nuts with locking ones, one at a time, torquing them as I go.
I always mark the torqued bolts with a yellow crayon or I get confused.

lv2race · 05-07-2020, 03:07 PM

Thanks Chris. I put the case halves together 2-weeks ago. Spent a lot of time cleaning and prepping. When I put it together it was the best job I had ever done. I was really proud of myself and went to take a photo when I noticed I put the case bolts in from the LH side and not the RH side. I don’t know if it makes a difference but I took them out one at a time, reversed them and installed new o-rings (luckily I had extra). I was so mad at myself. It’s always something!