Aurel`s engine rebuild thread

[Aurel]

Originally Posted by john_cramer

How nice of the university to give you that equipment to use! The injectors look great. How is the spray pattern?

Spray pattern looks symetrical, although it is hard to really compare because it blows real fast. As for the university equipment, it is ours, bought by our research grants or donated by our previous company. The university does not give us anything, just empty space for rent. Therefore, I can use it how I please, on the time I pay myself for my research .

Aurel

[OldTee]

You are making good progress.

If'n it was me, I'd put it togeather and before I fire it up test the injectors by putting them in 6 glasses and run em for 1/2 glass full. Compare and if one seems bad, swap it and test again. That will tell you if you have a bad injector.

[Aurel]

I am getting closer and closer...I estimate I am about $200 away from completion now. Little stuff like hoses, sound pad, accelerator bushings, etc. I managed to reconnect the gearbox and put the motor back on the ATV cart all by myself tonight. Gotta work on the engine compartment tomorrow .


Aurel

[MBEngineering]

HI Aurel
Do not forget the oil breather pipe on the top of the engine and turn the exhaust clamp round before you fit the engine, 1 it will catch the rear valance under the bumper when you fit the engine and 2 you will not be able to remove it when you have the engine in.

regards mike

[Aurel]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the exhaust clamp. It is nice to have another set of eyes watching for my errors! The oil breather hose was dried, it is on my last order list.

Regards,

Aurel

[OldTee]

Now you have no reason not to paint the car!

[Aurel]

Originally Posted by OldTee

Now you have no reason not to paint the car!

Yup...funny where a few broken headstuds can get you .

Now, I have a few questions:
#1:On the picture below, there is a black connector from the wiring harness that I have no idea where it goes. I was pretty good at marking everything, but this one was unmarked. Maybe because it was not connected in the first place. What is it? Anybody got an idea?



#2. I need to replace one of my heat exchanger to fllapper box hoses. I want to match the good one, but I do not know if what I have is the OEM or the "space age" pelican sells. Below is a pic of the good one:



Thanks guys,

Aurel

[MBEngineering]

HI Aurel

this is a UK 3.0lt engine with the black connector hanging out the back like yours


it fits on the AAV hear. Your wiring loom should go under the intake manifold and not round the back of the engine, should come out near the No'1 intake manifold runner, to plug on to the 14 pin connector?


in there on the black connection


the heater pipe you require is red heat resistant, the one on your car looks black?, and should be this length for your Pass' side and shorter for your Drivers side to fit on the temp sensor connector for the heater control.


the is a after market one we get over hear and the Porsche part No' is below the Euro car parts No'


regards mike

[Aurel]

Got it. Mike, you`re da man !

Aurel

[Aurel]

Well, that is it, the motor is back in the car. I`ll fire up tomorrow if all goes well. I still have a few things to connect. I am wondering where to plug the connector in the second picture, and I have no clue what connects to the two connectors on the corners of the car like the one on the third picture. Any help will be appreciated!







Aurel

[OldTee]

The three pronged plug in the second picture is for an old style voltage regulator. Looks like you updated. Cover it up with tape and if the little green (or is it red) light goes out on the instrument panel you are chargeing.

Remember to turn it over with the starter withoiut starting until you get oil pressure. Leave out the fuel pump relay. Also don't forget to charge the fuel system. Remove the line to the WUR and raise the lever in the air box and when you get fuel, hook it back and go driving.

[TibetanT]

Congratulations are in order! Good for you.

Do you remember if the machinist left any marks on the cylinder heads to address the amount machined? Just wondering, since I am in the process of rebuilding my 1978 911SC 3.0L.

Have fun with the car on it's second-in-life first drive and break-in.

[Charlie V]

Originally Posted by OldTee

Remember to turn it over with the starter withoiut starting until you get oil pressure. Leave out the fuel pump relay.

+1. Great thread. Congrats.

[Aurel]

Originally Posted by TibetanT

Congratulations are in order! Good for you.

Do you remember if the machinist left any marks on the cylinder heads to address the amount machined? Just wondering, since I am in the process of rebuilding my 1978 911SC 3.0L.

Have fun with the car on it's second-in-life first drive and break-in.

The machinist took 0.01" off the heads, and he stamped that number on them.

Aurel

[Aurel]

Need your help again...Hoses are as much trouble for me as hoes are for gov. Spitzer !
In the picture below, there is a ~1 ft hose, 5 mm diam. that connect to the T black plastic connector one the side indicated by an arrow. Where does this hose go ?



Aurel

[Aurel]

So, I filed with 9.5 quarts of 10W30 castrol GTX, and started cranking. All sounds normal, the green light went off, the pressure indicated went up to ~ 1. Is that enough?

I am not firing yet, because I have 2 issues:
- I still don`t know where to connect one CIS hose (see above).
- I have only 0.5 gallons (4 pints) of swepco 201 in my gearbox. Do I risk to damage it if I go drive like that (it was just rebuild, and the mechanics said to put 7 pints in it).

I am itching to fire it up, but I don`t want to screw things up so close...

Aurel

[OldTee]

Hope these help.

[OldTee]

Originally Posted by Aurel

So, I filed with 9.5 quarts of 10W30 castrol GTX, and started cranking. All sounds normal, the green light went off, the pressure indicated went up to ~ 1. Is that enough?

I am not firing yet, because I have 2 issues:
- I still don`t know where to connect one CIS hose (see above).
- I have only 0.5 gallons (4 pints) of swepco 201 in my gearbox. Do I risk to damage it if I go drive like that (it was just rebuild, and the mechanics said to put 7 pints in it).

I am itching to fire it up, but I don`t want to screw things up so close...

Aurel

No. Don't drive except to reposition car until your txmn is filled. If you are having trouble getting the fluid up there, head for your chem lab and borrow a beaker and rubber stopper with two holes. Fill the beaker 1/2 full then hook a hose to one into the txmn and put compressed air into the other. Go slow so you don't blow the hose out of the txmn and put sticky fluid all over the place.

[Aurel]

Originally Posted by OldTee

No. Don't drive except to reposition car until your txmn is filled. If you are having trouble getting the fluid up there, head for your chem lab and borrow a beaker and rubber stopper with two holes. Fill the beaker 1/2 full then hook a hose to one into the txmn and put compressed air into the other. Go slow so you don't blow the hose out of the txmn and put sticky fluid all over the place.

Thanks, John. On your pictures, you do not have that T connector I have, and most pics and diagrams have seen don`t have it either, so I still need to figure that one out. I do have the pump for filling the gearbox, just need more swepco.
I could try to start it, and do a static break-in, but with rering alusils, I read best results are obtained by driving the piss out them right away, so I should wait.
Would it hurt to just try and see if it fires up, then shut it off immediately...?

Aurel

[Charlie V]

I would fill the tranny before starting the engine.

Sorry - not 100% sure about that hose.