Thanks Kevin, that's what I wanted to hear.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1345992964.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1345992980.jpg
Now to figure out how to time the cams.:D

Get your chain boxes on and measure your depth. After you get your depth set, assemble everything, rails, tensioners, idlers
Back the flywheel so Z1 is at 10 oclock, now you can turn both the cams to have the keyway up. Bring Z1 back to center case. Pin both cams, keyway up.
Z block #1 intake..have you set your rockers?
Bruce

Bruce, by set your rockers do you mean the lash? If so than no, I just installed them.

How much would the depth change? I am reusing all the original parts.

The depth wont necessarly change but I like to know the math is right.
Adjusting the rockers, just do the intake on 1 and 4 befory you put the dial guage on.
Bruce

Thanks, Bruce.

Glad I measured...evidently 5 years ago when I bagged and labeled everything I did not know the left from right side of the engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346108905.jpg

The left side is hard to measure accurately...my straight edge is too wide for my calipers.

Ok, I got everything measured and within spec.

I found it was easier to convert to mm and do the math than using the specs in inches. I think it was the rounding with the calculator that was screwing me up.

Ok, another question. When you preload a dial gauge do I use the red numbers when it is turning backwards?

With a preload, youre numbers will be going toward 0. So if you preload 5mm and you set the cams at 1.25 you will have 3.75 preload left. You just need enough preload of the guage so you dont run out of measurment.
Easiest thing to do is set the Z bar, load the dialguage and lock it in somewhere in the middle of the travel. Set the outer dial to zero on the point. 1.25 is a full sweep of the pointer, plus
1/4 sweep.
My rule of thumb is, each peg adjustment is approximately .15mm on the dial. Sweep past the 1.25, pull the pin and reset it about 1.40. Take back tension on the chain and you should settle in about 1.25.
You really have to play with it until you get the numbers in.
Bruce

Thanks again Bruce.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346686045.jpg

Here is a picture of 1.26 mm overlap with 10mm preload.

Be sure you load the back pressure on your chain. The other side is way more fun getting a match.
Bruce

Thanks for all the help. A few pics of the timing of the cams again. I also got the tensioners and the distributor installed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346703746.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346703769.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346703851.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346703865.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346703880.jpg

Its all over but the shouting....
Bruce

long block done
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347719749.jpg
headers installed
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347719750.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347719753.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347719865.jpg

Sent the injectors to witchhunter to clean them up and ordered a rebuild alternator locally.

I was trial fitting the exhaust today and found rat poison pellets in my muffler. I spent a couple of hours flushing it out.

Dedication. Nice work - looking forward to the start-up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348360150.jpg

Gettinng closer

New fan housing and a rebuilt alternator, everything fit fine.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348414975.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348414987.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348415011.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348415023.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348415029.jpg
I forgot to put the hard line on *&^%%$%
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348415048.jpg

This is the clutch that came out of the car. I thought I had the rubber centered clutch, but I guess someone already changed that. How thick should the clutch be to be reused?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348415429.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348415440.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348415450.jpg

The thicknesses should be in the manual but you have to the grommets for wear.
Bruce

Manual calls to replace if aged over 25k miles while you're in there. Measurement is done from the rivet heads; spec is at least 1/32" or .8MM otherwise they say it's not worth putting the disc back in. If the material is breaking up or black where contaminated with oil then it should also be replaced. If you're in spec then clean it up with paper towels and brake parts cleaner to get fingerprints/oils off the disc, flywheel and pressure plate.

Thanks Bruce and Andrew.

Do I just press the needle bearings out to insert the bronze bushings with the universal update kit?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348683787.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348683806.jpg

Looks like that's the case. Post pics of the new bushings and we can determine what needs to be done. A little blocking and a vice would probably pop those out if we determine that is what needs to be done.

The needle bearings come out and the brass get pressed in. In the directions it tells which side the brass shoulder goes on.
Bruce

Thanks, I ordered the kit today. Maybe I'll wait until it gets here before I start.

exhaust is on
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349121305.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349121466.jpg


Exhaust is on. I should have taken better pictures of the intake and wiring on top of the engine....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349727702.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349727721.jpg
Transmission is giving me a bit of trouble...I will be searching tonight
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349727750.jpg
sound pad was pretty easy
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349727754.jpg
this looks correct to me
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349727760.jpg

Are there any easy tips for mating the engine and transmission?

Does your throw out bearing fit on the guide tube in the trans...I got hung up there a few years ago.
Bruce

Bruce I haven't checked that, there are no new parts here. I was thinking it would just slide back together. I did move the crankshaft a little, but my arms were really starting to burn holding that transmission.

I will give it another try in a few days.

I was thinking you were installing a new clutch package..brain short...
Bruce

when you bolted the pressure plate to the flywheel, did you align the clutch disk with the appropriate tool? if you didn't there is pretty much no way you can install the transmission.

when i put my gearbox back on, i had the engine resting on a dolly i built that was about 18 inches off the ground. i put the gearbox on my atv jack, moved the jack into position and then raised the jack to roughly the right height. i then wiggled and lifted the gearbox as i slid the jack/gearbox forward.

note that the jack was at right angles to the crankshaft in order to maximize the stability of the gearbox on the atv jack. when i slid the jack/gearbox combination up against the engine, the atv jack wheels did not rotate.

Yes, I used the clutch tool. I will try again tomorrow.


Does a hose connect to the round piece with the two male connectors on it. The one with the green. I know there is one above the the Y.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349880471.jpg

Thanks

yes it does...I believe a hose runs under the air box to the rear of the car & the hose plugs into the front face of the mas/air box...look in the bently manual for the pic...I can envision it but I am explaining it poorly here...all of this info is if you are running a 3.2 in stk configuration...

i was pretty sure that you had, but everybody forgets things/makes mistakes.

the part number for that thermovalve in your picture is 930 207 231 00. if you search for that part number on the pelican web site, it will provide an in situ diagram of the valve and the hose connections to it.

Ok, transmission is on the engine and the new updated shaft is installed.


I am still having a problem with the vacuum lines that go to the piece with two connectors. I have looked at the Bentley and the Porsche parts diagram and still don't see where the hoses go. I have one hose that is on the car that I labeled throttle body, I think that hose goes below the Y connector that goes to the fuel pressure regulators.

I really don't remember another hose on there. How would the car run with no hose connected to that?

The twin nipple appliance is called the thermo valve and regulates something called the air valve off of the oil tank. There should be a small V or Y shaped hose that connects one of the thermo valve nipples to the remaining throttle body nipple. The second port on the thermo valve is then connected by vacuum hose to the air valve.