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New fan housing and a rebuilt alternator, everything fit fine.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I forgot to put the hard line on *&^%%$% ![]()
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Peppy 2011 BMW 335d 1988 Targa 3.4 ![]() 2001 Jetta TDI dead 1982 Chevette Diesel SOLD ![]() |
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This is the clutch that came out of the car. I thought I had the rubber centered clutch, but I guess someone already changed that. How thick should the clutch be to be reused?
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The thicknesses should be in the manual but you have to the grommets for wear.
Bruce |
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Straight shooter
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Manual calls to replace if aged over 25k miles while you're in there. Measurement is done from the rivet heads; spec is at least 1/32" or .8MM otherwise they say it's not worth putting the disc back in. If the material is breaking up or black where contaminated with oil then it should also be replaced. If you're in spec then clean it up with paper towels and brake parts cleaner to get fingerprints/oils off the disc, flywheel and pressure plate.
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“Of the value traps, the most widespread and pernicious is value rigidity. This is an inability to revalue what one sees because of commitment to previous values. In motorcycle maintenance, you MUST rediscover what you do as you go. Rigid values makes this impossible.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values |
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Thanks Bruce and Andrew.
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Do I just press the needle bearings out to insert the bronze bushings with the universal update kit?
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Looks like that's the case. Post pics of the new bushings and we can determine what needs to be done. A little blocking and a vice would probably pop those out if we determine that is what needs to be done.
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“Of the value traps, the most widespread and pernicious is value rigidity. This is an inability to revalue what one sees because of commitment to previous values. In motorcycle maintenance, you MUST rediscover what you do as you go. Rigid values makes this impossible.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values |
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The needle bearings come out and the brass get pressed in. In the directions it tells which side the brass shoulder goes on.
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Thanks, I ordered the kit today. Maybe I'll wait until it gets here before I start.
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exhaust is on
![]() ![]() Exhaust is on. I should have taken better pictures of the intake and wiring on top of the engine....
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![]() ![]() Transmission is giving me a bit of trouble...I will be searching tonight ![]() sound pad was pretty easy ![]() this looks correct to me ![]() Are there any easy tips for mating the engine and transmission?
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Does your throw out bearing fit on the guide tube in the trans...I got hung up there a few years ago.
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Bruce I haven't checked that, there are no new parts here. I was thinking it would just slide back together. I did move the crankshaft a little, but my arms were really starting to burn holding that transmission.
I will give it another try in a few days.
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I was thinking you were installing a new clutch package..brain short...
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Eschews Obfuscation
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when you bolted the pressure plate to the flywheel, did you align the clutch disk with the appropriate tool? if you didn't there is pretty much no way you can install the transmission.
when i put my gearbox back on, i had the engine resting on a dolly i built that was about 18 inches off the ground. i put the gearbox on my atv jack, moved the jack into position and then raised the jack to roughly the right height. i then wiggled and lifted the gearbox as i slid the jack/gearbox forward. note that the jack was at right angles to the crankshaft in order to maximize the stability of the gearbox on the atv jack. when i slid the jack/gearbox combination up against the engine, the atv jack wheels did not rotate.
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Yes, I used the clutch tool. I will try again tomorrow.
Does a hose connect to the round piece with the two male connectors on it. The one with the green. I know there is one above the the Y. ![]() Thanks
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yes it does...I believe a hose runs under the air box to the rear of the car & the hose plugs into the front face of the mas/air box...look in the bently manual for the pic...I can envision it but I am explaining it poorly here...all of this info is if you are running a 3.2 in stk configuration...
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Eschews Obfuscation
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i was pretty sure that you had, but everybody forgets things/makes mistakes.
the part number for that thermovalve in your picture is 930 207 231 00. if you search for that part number on the pelican web site, it will provide an in situ diagram of the valve and the hose connections to it.
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Ok, transmission is on the engine and the new updated shaft is installed.
I am still having a problem with the vacuum lines that go to the piece with two connectors. I have looked at the Bentley and the Porsche parts diagram and still don't see where the hoses go. I have one hose that is on the car that I labeled throttle body, I think that hose goes below the Y connector that goes to the fuel pressure regulators. I really don't remember another hose on there. How would the car run with no hose connected to that?
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The twin nipple appliance is called the thermo valve and regulates something called the air valve off of the oil tank. There should be a small V or Y shaped hose that connects one of the thermo valve nipples to the remaining throttle body nipple. The second port on the thermo valve is then connected by vacuum hose to the air valve.
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