What a Mess!

[mike the snake]

Yesterday, I drove my race car at Infineon. It was a DE event.

To date, my car never leaked a drop of oil.

In my 3rd run, I smelled burnt oil so I came in early. When i got out, I saw the trail of oil from my car leading to the big puddle forming under the car.

Apparently the cam line that comes out of the front timing chain cover split or broke. It's a little banjo fitting that split I think. It was tight, but when I nudged it tighter it started leaking worse, so I THINK that's all it is.

Luckily nothing happened, but WOW do I have a big mess to clean up. Oil got everywhere.

Is it common for these lines to break? It does have the little keeper to prevent flex.

Any tips for how to clean the oil mess? Someone mentioned orange cleaner.

[Eagledriver]

Yes these lines fail. You are lucky you caught it before ruining your engine. I'd replace both lines. There are brackets that attach to these lines to prevent vibration/flexing. They are available at all parts places along with the lines.

-Andy

[mike the snake]

.woops.

[mike the snake]

The engine already has the brackets installed.

I am running Swepco 15-45wt oil. I am wondering about my oil pressure, and whether maybe going to a thinner oil might help.

Cold idle pressure is around 80-90 pounds, hot idle pressure is around 40-50lbs.

Pressure at high RPM's is around 120 pounds. Basically just under 2 BAR per thousand RPM.

I checked videos from the PO and the pressures and temps are the same as when he ran the car, but this seems a little high to me.

I doubt the higher pressure caused the failure of the fitting (it's all metal where it failed I think) but not sure.

Would going to a thinner oil help anything?

[calling911]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

The engine already has the brackets installed.

I am running Swepco 15-45wt oil. I am wondering about my oil pressure, and whether maybe going to a thinner oil might help.

Cold idle pressure is around 80-90 pounds, hot idle pressure is around 40-50lbs.

Pressure at high RPM's is around 120 pounds. Basically just under 2 BAR per thousand RPM.

I checked videos from the PO and the pressures and temps are the same as when he ran the car, but this seems a little high to me.

I doubt the higher pressure caused the failure of the fitting (it's all metal where it failed I think) but not sure.

Would going to a thinner oil help anything?

No. Replace the line and drive it. You think maybe Porsche overlooked a pressure problem? Me thinks not.

[mike the snake]

Thanks. I've built and run many V8's and VW Type1 engines. I hear the "10 pounds per 1000RPM" rule thrown around a lot, but didn't know whether that applied to the P-6's.

My engine has been run as it is for many hours so I'm not too worried, just thought I'd ask.

[efhughes3]

I'd look at running 50W if you're going to be tracking this summer. Infineon can get warm.

New lines, seals and ferrules-inspect the hollow bolts when you get them off.

You may want to put your car info in your signature for future reference.

[lindy 911]

I think it's more of a problem with the installation of the banjo fitting than the fitting actually failing due to oil pressure. If it was over-tightened by the PO or someone else it could have easily been compromised and finally gave up the ghost at 7500 rpm. It's pretty common to give it an extra twist when tighter is assumed better. Torque the new one to spec and move on.

Lindy

[mike the snake]

I agree, probably the line got bumped when I was transporting the engine/gearbox home, or overtightened by PO.

Engine is a twin plug crank fire 3.5, 13-to-1, GE80 cams, 50mm PMO's, connected to a 915 box with everything WEVO makes.

Oil got everywhere, I am avoiding the car right now. I'm going to get the car on a lift and clean everything up, replace the lines and properly torque the fittings.


Unfortunately, the underside doesn't look as clean as in the picture.

[mike the snake]

OK, I've started cleaning. Some oil made it above the engine tin, and it appears that some oil spray got into the fan, not a lot, but I'm sure oil was blown through the fan.

I doubt enough oil went through the fan to warrant removing the shroud, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do about this.

Can I spray anything carefully into the fan with the car running to dilute any oil that might have been blown onto the engine? Mineral spirits or diluted orange oil degreaser possibly?

[euro911sc]

What ever you spray will make it worse. It probably got into the alternator and you dont want to be spraying mineral spirits in there I think you could just wipe everything down to the best of your ability and go drive it. If you really want to, you can take the shroud off, but its a lot of work. Jsut depends on how much of a clean freak you are

-Michael

[snbush67]

Mike,

You should remove the shroud and fan and clean up in there. If enough oil was blown through the fan it has probably gummed up in the cooling fins. Of course this could lead to issues down the road if your engine is running hot.

It is well worth the time spent and cost you some manifold gaskets.

Shane

[mike the snake]

Thanks very much for the replies.

There's a cover piece that I can remove and look under the shroud. I will look and decide whether to remove the shroud or not. I don't think very much oil went through the fan, just enough to wet the fan blades and soak the belt I'm hoping.

On track, I thought I smelled rubber smoke, which I think now was the belt was slipping and burning from being oil soaked. The engine probably got pretty hot, but I think everything is OK. Oil pressure was never affected, oil level unaffected, Oil temp was 230. This all happened over a lap or 2. I started the car a few minutes after coming off the track, all was fine.

The car is going up on a lift this weekend or Monday for cleaning and to fix the oil line.

[Green 912]

Red can Brake Kleen will rinse oil and flash away leaving no residue. Unlike Green can brake Kleen the stuff in the red can is not flammable and does not eat most paints. I might spray it in and around as best as i could but not on a running or hot motor. lifter lines are brittle. A slight leak will turn into a big one when you try and tighten up a fitting. the joint between the fitting and tube cracks. I have done track side silver solder repairs to these lines.