And the case should be a late 1970 build for the 1971 year model. Grady will know for sure.

I think someone pulled too many beers from the vending machine.

With thse two casting dates on the same (probably original, well documented) engine, I would like to research other engines with close engine numbers.
Perhaps 'Fritz' had one too many.

The good news is the castings are just fine or would not have passed later (many) inspections.

Best,
Grady

Thanks guys - now I can resume without concerns about the numbers. I was scared that Fritz or Heinz slipped a few Messerschmidt parts into the line after happy hour ( lunchtime )
:)

Getting there
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311120038.jpg

Back from Ollie's in Havasu - dealing with George and Ike is a pleasure ! I was given a friendly trip of their shop , with explanations given on every process.

Ollie's did all the needed - align bore to std , inserts , #3 spigot , valve job , reface heads , spot face thru bolts , oil bypass , clean oil squirters , and hottank.

Slowly getting there - so many little things taking time. Cleaning , ordering and waiting for parts , cleaning , re-ordering parts that is out of stock , cleaning , etc.

Back to the # 8 o-ring. I got a black o-ring , but see that orange o-rings are used. Are those the 4.5 mm , and the black the 4 mm ? If I mess up now , the rest of the build will be useless.

Help !

What is this ?
 

Is this part of the old # 8 seal ?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312560845.jpg

I searched all available sources and came up blank.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312562137.jpg

Oil pump upgrade


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312562232.jpg




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312562333.jpg

Yes, that is probably the spring from the crankshaft nose seal.

Someone else must chime in on the size of the #8 main bearing O-ring.

I’m in favor of dismantling for inspection any new or suspect oil pump.
The key is to get it back together exactly correctly.

While I see a case-half oil O-ring (green arrow), I don’t see the two for the oil pump (red arrows).
This is one of the procedures that you do all or none.
Is the O-ring under the oil pump?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312586060.jpg



The chains should be on the sprockets.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/622226-chain-fell-off-intermediate-sprocket.html


Best,
Grady

Sorry, I missed many months of updates here. The documentation of the engine is great! I agree that the casting dates appear to be weeks 49 & 50; the dots may indicate day of the week. There is very poor documentation of the casting dates on the magnesium cases. Some have them, and others do not. The format is quite varied as well.

Thanks guys ! The above photo was taken with a test fit - oil pump seals and chains installed a bit later.

The oil pump was cleaned , inspected , cleaned , and installed.

It took me 2 days of triple checking , making lists , counting washers and nuts , stressing , etc. before deciding to put the case together.

I read Wayne's and Bruce Anderson's books countless times , watched Nick Fulljames on Youtube for hours , researched blogs on this forum , and got totally confused. For any 2 questions there were 20 different answers.

My honey ( guess to get my "stuff" out of the living room ) volunteered her help , and the cases were mated an hour ago. My garage in the AZ weather is simply too hot.

I took the middle road with sealants after deciding that the big boys have 20 options , and can appreciate that a racing engine needs some extra TLC.

So much to do - so little time

Head studs installed using loctite red - measured to 135mm.

New oil pressure pistons installed.

Crankcase breather and thermostat installed. Waiting for oil pressure swich.

Chain ramps installed.

Waiting for double crank pulley - AC is a must in AZ.

Pistons fitted in cylinders - after making sure rings are orientated correctly.

Although machine work was done by the reputable Ollie's , and new cylinder base gaskets were included , I decided to do a deck hight measurement. This is 1.37 mm - in limits.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313542999.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313543082.jpg

Grady - another photo before case was sealed


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313543730.jpg

Errie,

Looks like you're doing a great, careful job (weighing the multitude of opinions), and enjoying the process. Not far from done! Remind me (us) what the car's condition is? Waiting and ready to receive the engine?

Best,
Mike

Mike - the car still needs a total redo. Hope to do that this winter.

I have bought floor pannels , suspension pan , tank support , etc. This will be fitted on a rotisserie , as I expect to find some other suprises underneat that needs attention.

As the car started out as a 912 , I will also need parts like engine mounts , lots of electrical work , cv changes , to name a few.

Like most Pelicans this is a passion for me , and the slow progress is caused by me wanting to do everything myself.

Errie, Great thread on your engine assembly. One thing I see odd is the lack of threads showing on the connecting rod bolt after your torque down. That might be just the camera angle but you stated that it was just before case half's going together.

Mark - that is why I joined this forum !

These are new bolts , torqued to spec. I will split the case again , and install new bolts as this does not look like a camera angle issue. I will keep you updated

Thanks for your help ! This would have been a fiasco.

The bolts are VERBUS 129 , and I found an earlier thread where Wayne et all. discussed this issue.

What advice from the Pelican experts ?

I am going to start a bbq fire , and have a few cold ones while awaiting replies. This day turned out different than planned.

Visual inspection shows all the nuts showing the same thread - about 2 mm.

The peer review on this forum is priceless !!

Are they 2.0 bolts in 2.2 rods?