The Beautiful Puzzle: 1987 3.3L 930 EFI Build - Page 23

350HP930 · 11-09-2011, 10:47 AM

Damn Rick, looking good. Guess its a good thing I took all the stuff out of the whale tail already for you. My guess is that you will be remaining rear wiper-less from this point on, lol.

CaptainCalf · 11-09-2011, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350HP930

Damn Rick, looking good. Guess its a good thing I took all the stuff out of the whale tail already for you. My guess is that you will be remaining rear wiper-less from this point on, lol.

Thanks Tony

I guess I'll have to stop once in a while and clean the ice off the rear window due to the endothermic reaction of the air sweeping by so fast

CaptainCalf · 11-10-2011, 10:12 AM

Can anybody tell me the best way to run the 2 fuel pumps while the motor is out?

I'd like to flush the lines and test the pumps before I stuff the motor in there. I've already cleaned out the tank and put fresh fuel in it.

Thanks,
RC

CaptainCalf · 11-10-2011, 04:08 PM

I used Earl's -6an SS line from drip tank to the scavenge pump and the oem line over the tranny and added an inline 75 micron filter before the tank to catch any coke that may be created by the turbo.

Ronnie's.930 · 06:19 PM

Is that where you plan to keep the filter mounted? I ask, because I am fairly certain there is not enough room between the engine tin and the chasis/mounting rail for the engine rubber surround for this to work (did something similar on the other side and found out when installing the engine) . . .

BTW, I really enjoy following your build!

CaptainCalf · 11-11-2011, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

Is that where you plan to keep the filter mounted? I ask, because I am fairly certain there is not enough room between the engine tin and the chasis/mounting rail for the engine rubber surround for this to work (did something similar on the other side and found out when installing the engine) . . .

BTW, I really enjoy following your build!

Yes, I like it there but will move it if I have to. Thanks for the heads-up and kind words

willtel · 11-11-2011, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptainCalf

Yes, I like it there but will move it if I have to. Thanks for the heads-up and kind words

That will certainly be tight once the engine goes in. JFairman has something similar on his.

Rebuilding turbo oil scavenge pump

What is with all the hose clamps on the AN fittings? Trying to re-use some of the old hoses?

CaptainCalf · 11-11-2011, 10:50 AM

Lol, clamps are like insurance you pay and pay but never really know if you have too much

Quote:

Quote de CaptainCalf

Yes, I like it there but will move it if I have to. Thanks for the heads-up and kind words

That will certainly be tight once the engine goes in. JFairman has something similar on his.

Rebuilding turbo oil scavenge pump

What is with all the hose clamps on the AN fittings? Trying to re-use some of the old hoses?

CaptainCalf · 11-12-2011, 11:47 AM

Does this air filter look big enough? LOL

350HP930 · 11-14-2011, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptainCalf

Does this air filter look big enough? LOL

Concidering that there will be no room left in the engine compartment after its installed, my answer would be yes, lol.

CaptainCalf · 11-14-2011, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350HP930

Concidering that there will be no room left in the engine compartment after its installed, my answer would be yes, lol.

Hehehe, as long as there's room for the motor I should be good

EmptyGarage · 11-15-2011, 10:11 AM

Been reading thread again and I'm interested to know a few details about checking valve to piston clears.

Can you describe how this is done...or a picture if you took one at the time.

thanks

[QUOTE=CaptainCalf;6263391]checked valve to piston clears tonight & bolted 964 Flywheel & sensor on...int valve min clears 1.5mm and 2.0mm for exh all good

CaptainCalf · 11-15-2011, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EmptyGarage

Been reading thread again and I'm interested to know a few details about checking valve to piston clears.

Can you describe how this is done...or a picture if you took one at the time.

thanks

Sure, all you need to do to check the valve to piston clears is to run the valve adjustment screw to the desired clearance a little at a time while rotating the crank to make sure you don't get any collisions between the valves and pistons. Beware you could bend a valve or damage a piston if you turn the motor over to fast/hard

I turned it over by hand slowly while sneaking up on the clears. IIRC the adjustment screws are M6x1.0mm, so a complete 360 degree revolution is equivalent to 1mm.

Hope this helps!
RC

MBruns · 11-15-2011, 10:41 AM

There is a safer way to do this, set valve lash to zero or there about, for the intake valve on the overlap stop at 10 deg ATDC, slowly turn the valve adjuster in (each turn is 1mm) until you feel the valve touch the piston that is P to V for intake, back it out more than you turned it in for safety, the exhaust side at overlap stop at 7 deg BTDC and do the same thing, rule of thumb is minimum P to V on intake is 1 mm, exhaust minimum 2 +mm, the degree wheel settings may vary a little from cam to cam but that has been very close across the board

Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

CaptainCalf · 11-15-2011, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBruns

There is a safer way to do this, set valve lash to zero or there about, for the intake valve on the overlap stop at 10 deg ATDC, slowly turn the valve adjuster in (each turn is 1mm) until you feel the valve touch the piston that is P to V for intake, back it out more than you turned it in for safety, the exhaust side at overlap stop at 7 deg BTDC and do the same thing, rule of thumb is minimum P to V on intake is 1 mm, exhaust minimum 2 +mm, the degree wheel settings may vary a little from cam to cam but that has been very close across the board

Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

+1, go with Mike's procedure cuz I was really worried I'd get a collision and just plain lucky I didn't!

EmptyGarage · 11-15-2011, 11:03 AM

Thanks for the details.

Yes Mike's sounds like an easier one man operation. need to consider specs on specific cams but with care it sounds like a reasonably doable procedure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptainCalf

+1, go with Mike's procedure cuz I was really worried I'd get a collision and just plain lucky I didn't!

CaptainCalf · 11-16-2011, 06:00 PM

Decided to go with a 3.2 throttle body and linkage arm mounted to a 930 throttle plate that I reconfigured. Also, cleaned the heat shield so it's ready for some high temp paint and trimmed and primed a custom fiberglass GT3 rear valance.

DSPTurtle · 11-16-2011, 06:23 PM

Man that is ugly. Just kidding!!! Very, very impressive work. The only downside is that the air filter is going to make it hard to change spark plugs

CaptainCalf · 04:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSPTurtle

Man that is ugly. Just kidding!!! Very, very impressive work. The only downside is that the air filter is going to make it hard to change spark plugs

Thanks Jason, I'll bring it over to your garage for help changing the plugs

DSPTurtle · 11-17-2011, 04:48 AM

That's a deal. As long as you let me stretch her legs a bit.
We'll just have to borrow my neighbors tool kit for the spark plug tool to do yours too (I have so many tools but nothing fits like the toolkit tool and I lost all my toolkits when we moved)