Hello Spencer !
Singer in begun his(its) very first preparations on type G (base of 3.2), he(it) then took frames of 964. :)

Not much to update on this week I'm afraid, just some planning and investigating the repair of the bumper section (mentioned a few weeks ago).

I took the ally beam across to Pete for welding - no dice - the bracketry is too far gone to be able to get a clean weld on it. Unfortunately it's not just the top half of the bracket that's affected either, the bottom half is also shot when we looked at it closer.

Hmmm. Time to make a new pair. One option would be to look at making them out of stainless steel; thinner gauge material could be used, therefore some sections could be bent with a radius without fouling anything. Galvanic corrosion would need to be looked at; potentially just putting a film of Waxoyl between the ally beam and the SS brackets could be sufficient; so long as the electrolyte material (water) is kept out, it should be good.

Or, the K.I.S.S. principle and remake in ally, fabricating sections of right angle together to mimic the originals.

I may look at making a jig, so that whatever method we choose, I can make more in the future. A little shocked to find that one decent gust of wind would've been enough to cause my mountings to fail; hand pressure was more than enough to crack mine right through - there's bound to be an epidemic of this issue if folk were to look behind the plastic bumper itself.

Onto other news....some of you guys may know that I absolutely love watches - wouldn't say I'm a master horologist, but am in the camp of "unhealthy addiction". I was sober for 3 months....until last night when I went eBay searching for something and stumbled upon a few items that will combine my passion for this car with my love of timepieces and planes.

But it's far from orthodox....Per my updates before Christmas, my Stack/VDO-a-like boost gauge is now with me, but it does mean sacrificing the lovely, simple dash clock.

Then I found this, and wondered if I could somehow integrate it into the car. No, you're right, it does COMPLETELY fly in the face of keeping the car original looking, I appreciate that....but for some cool items, I'll gladly consider exceptions. :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../Watches/2.jpg

What is it?....haha, why it's a clock from a MIG-29 fighter, of course! Kind of fitting....completely mechanical, so in the same way you wind your favourite timepiece before wearing it for the day, so I will before embarking on any journey. 3-day power reserve, has a +27v connection should you need to prevent the unit from fogging (!!), and - get this - it was basically a copy by the Russians of a Jaeger LeCoultre designed movement. It also has a flight timer clock. Current thinking is to fabricate a unit to sit where the ashtray aperture is, in the lower dash area, something I can get trimmed in black leather to match the rest of the dash trim. The bezel of the unit needs attention, but I really like it. If it doesn't work out, then I'll just make it into a nice bedside clock.

....and, in line with that addiction, I couldn't leave it at just one timepiece :rolleyes: .....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tches/face.jpg

This one is a NOS clock as used in either nuclear missile silo or submarines. It's a 48hr clock, designed to be more logical where the operators had no access to daylight. One revolution per 24hr period, with a "1" or "2" in the window @1500/1600 to indicate which 24hr period you were in. Again, mechanical movement, but this one will be a desk clock. Appropriate, seeing as I tend to go to almost 24hrs before going to bed....

There's a MIL spec multipole connector at the rear that can be used to hook the clock up to some external device (like a 4hr shift timer)...perhaps useful to rig it up to a bloody big alarm bell to wake me up in the mornings!

Back to the car - next job is to order a selection of 76mm ally tubing so I can start fabricating the inlet tract to the turbo. It's times like this I really wish I had my own TIG setup, so I could at least tack the sections into place rather than have to have 3 hands to hold everything....maybe the next gadget on the list...

Spenny, that looks amazing :cool: Congrats !

Thanks mate, appreciate it ;)

Slowly but surely....

This evenings progress....

In preparation for buying a selection of aluminium pipes, I decided to mock some up out of cereal packets. Time to crack open the compass set, the protractor and with some careful cutting, made a few of each of the angles I can get hold of easily from a seller on eBay (15º, 45º, 60º and 90º).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...AEC2996AE2.jpg

Will have a go tomorrow to see which combination of items I need to order.

I also received this in this mornings post, from a fellow Pelicanite. His company is Car-bone, think that's also his username, but he has a thread over in the 911 Technical forum.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...EFD275A861.jpg

The two decals on my slam panel are a bit tired looking, cracked corners, etc. I also have a Shell Lubricants one on the other side. I'm sure that it was supposed to be on the airbox, and mine is all rucked, dirty and creased. Looks like somebody's restuck it. I have no allegiance to Shell and am using Joe Gibbs anyway, plus I quite like the geek factor of this pair --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...869898389E.jpg

Of course, not period correct, but it's useful and relevant information nonetheless.

They're nice quality; not the same rigid thick tin material of the originals, but they should look a lot better than what's there already, once stuck on the panel.

Time for a check-in....

A pretty productive weekend, tinkering and getting lots of odd jobs underway.

I've now received both Russian clocks - they're ticking away merrily in the lounge at the moment...loudly....but they keep very good time; the silo clock, with only a partial wind, was spot on to the minute and went for over 3 days (the MIG-29 clock was only wound a couple of turns, so lasted about a day-and-a-half)

I stripped the front of the MIG clock, chemically stripped the black paint off of the bezel and re-sprayed with acid etch and satin black. A full clean of the glass, locking spring and 2x adjustment and winding knobs, and it's looking very nice.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...21703D632B.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7F768D91A4.jpg

Whilst the bezel was removed, I traced the outline to then enable me to make a trimmed bracket/housing for it to mount into. Not sure which material to make it from yet; MDF a-la car hi-fi installs keeps it easy; it'll then be trimmed with padding foam to match the knee roll, then leather on top of that. Anyway, that's some way off yet. Nice knowing that I've got a completely discreet project to do at some point, which doesn't require any electrical work or integration with other parts of the car!


Some time spent aligning the intercooler has resulted in the engine lid clearing the front tank - it's certainly a big ol' beast! The thing fills the aperture in the wing, but despite that, it's still very easy to get hands in behind and to the side of the IC with the lid opened, so I was surprised how accessible various components of the engine bay still are. Removal is simplicity itself, it really is a 30sec task to just undo the front bolt and the 2x Wiggins clamps.

Next job was to re-fit the heat shields above the turbo. If you remember, I'm attaching them using M5 fixings through the tinware above it, but in order to prevent the fixings "top-side" from melting the powder-coated surface, I've made some penny washer from a sheet of thick fibrous gasket material I have (the nylocs will be swapped to spring washers and plain nuts when I get around to going to the hardware store) --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...32F7028FC1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E622B18904.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9EBC692BA1.jpg

Next job will be to make some small metal p-clips to retain the exhaust back pressure sensor feed pipes above the silencer.

The exhaust silencer is now back on, along with tail-pipes. Now, one thing I can foresee is going to need some attention is the amount of protrusion each tail pipe has, relative to the bumper. I guess with 1-2º of rotation on the turbo flange when it was welded to the secondaries (and let's face it, it was eyeballed, as that's all that could be done.....), it's thrown the alignment of the silencer a little....meaning that the LH pipe looks as though it'll protrude more than the RH one...but it's too early to tell yet, I need to get the bumper back on and see how far out it is.

Next job was to fit the heating pipework, so that I can work out how much space I have for routing the oil return pipe between the tank and the engine.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F784F80B1D.jpg

The 135º -18AN fitting *just about* clears the heating shroud around the primaries --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0D8AD17B9E.jpg

I've got plenty of hose length to play with, so have kept the routing very similar to the original (i.e. backwards towards rear of wheel arch). The length of hose will be sleeved in the same heat-resistant material as you can see I've used for the wastegate hoses. The oil's unlikely to dissipate any heat along that run, but it certainly could absorb it from the oil pipework and the proximity to various parts of the exhaust system. On balance I think it's worthwhile.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...305AED88A7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F515D40009.jpg

Another option would've been to route the line forwards, crossing over to the LHS of the car under the bell housing. This would be a shorter pipe run, but potentially interfered with the removal/refitting of the oil filter. It also looked to be a little bit of a fight wrestling the hose into and around the various items that are in the way.

When it came to making the hoses, unfortunately I don't have a 38mm OE spanner to hold the body of the coupling. I managed to fit the 45º fitting anyway by clamping it carefully in the vice and using a 36mm spanner on the other half. Mega torque required to do that thing up (oiled threads of course), so have now ordered a pair of nylon vice jaws to hold it a little better, as I still need to cut the hose and fit the 135º item.

The cardboard mockups of the 3" inlet tract have proven invaluable. With the IC in place, a clear path through to the back of the engine bay was sought....It's going to be VERY tight, but I think I can do it without the need to tweak the pipes.

The shopping list is:

• 2 x 45º pipes
• 2 x 15º pipes
• 2 x 60º pipes
• 1 x 90º pipe
• 1 x 1m length of 76mm straight pipe

All of the bends have 150mm tails, are 76mm OD and have 1.6mm wall thickness....bang-on £100 via a seller on eBay

Remembering back to when I was making the cold charge pipe and the hot-side pipes for the IC, it was a right pain trying to hold the pipe whilst cutting, especially for any subtle angle changes. I didn't have the lathe back then, but now I have, I've also ordered a billet of 25mm thick aluminium and will bore out a 76mm hole using the 4-jaw. A cut down the middle and I'll have myself a pipe clamp for the big vice.

So, it was a little bit of an eBay spend late last night.....

Some of the shopping list items arrived today....

The nylon jaws for holding the fluid couplings looked nice enough....but they turned out to be absolutely sodding useless, despite them supposedly being suitable for use with larger fittings than the -18AN I'm using. I knew I should've gone for the aluminium ones that Think Automotive sell..."buy cheap, buy twice" --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...52FCB9CAC7.jpg

...and that wasn't even done up that tight; I tightened reasonably tight to start with and heard a crack, backed it off a little but could see it wriggling under the load, then it let go completely. Grrr.

So, hose now cut to length and partially assembled:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F5375CF50E.jpg

However, the billet of ally got here safely. So, time to mount it into the 4-jaw and get boring....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...724E728561.jpg

There's about 0.5 - 0.9mm left to bore, but want to mic the actual tubing when it arrives. It appears that it's en-route...well...most of it, according to the eBay dispatch notices. Looks like the straight section didn't get shipped, but there should be plenty to be getting on with, with just getting the swan-neck arrangement made to clear the engine mount area.

Looking awesome Spencer! I wish I had you patience, time, space and most importantly skills! Always enjoy reading your updates and seeing what you have been up to.

How is it looking for dynoing? Will this thing hit the roads this summer?

Cheers,
Fred

Hey Fred!

Thanks for the kind words - the ++ feedback does motivate, believe me!

Hoping it will be on the road for the summer, yes....I was aiming for Le Mans, i.e., well-and-truly shaken down by the time we need to make the journey.....***but*** I think that may be ambitious. Dyno is all booked for the w/c 13th April, I booked the van rental yesterday (I get to play WVM for a week and tailgate everyone).

(joking)

After that, I have the rest of that week as holiday to get the lump back in the car, however, I want to install a proper extinguisher system whilst I have the interior in pieces. Don't want to be pulling it apart for a 3rd time later on. The system I'm looking at is going to cost a few £££ (Lifeline Zero360, possibly with the remote discharge unit, as this makes it a really compact unit to hide away)

So, simple answer is...."maybe". I've beaten myself up enough over the last 4yrs about progress, I'm going to relax into it now...got the other toy to play with in the summer.

Cheers
S

Get the pink one :)

http://www.lifeline-fire.co.uk/content/tuning_01.gif

....Lucy would love it......

Me, I don't bat for that team. ;) Weapon-black or discrete grey for me

Did you get email the other week?

Time for another post weekend update.

It all started ok yesterday morning, then went a bit pants, but finished pretty satisfactorily tonight.

So, a simple job to start, make up some custom stainless p-clips to hold the RHS exhaust back pressure sender pipes onto the rear tinware. Pretty simple, just fiddly but yet another instance where I was very glad to have bought the sheet metal punch last year. The number of times I've used it, unbelievable. And a lot nicer hole than drilling with stainless.

The way I bent the EGBP pipework, I wanted it to run in free air but also it needed to sit away from the sheet metal so that the -3AN fitting onto the flexi pipe clears and doesn't vibrate against the tinware.

Used a drill bit in the lathe chuck to form the "p"...easy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...EDC079C803.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...75B918B66E.jpg


Next job was to start mocking up a dummy air filter. I'd spoken to Andy @ ITG a few weeks ago and got the conversation started with regards to what they could make for me; basically, anything goes. So, now the engine's in situ, it was time to start see what clearance I have....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1CAC921EAE.jpg

....then speak to Andy again for his thoughts. Very helpful guy, and after 15mins on the phone and a dozen or so photos later I had a few ideas.

Long story short;

• Attempt #1 being just too big (150 x 190 oval x 300 long), looked ok until the cold charge pipe was refitted, and it fouled the BOV.
  
• Attempt #2 was a 150x190 oval at the LHS, tapering to a 125 x 190 oval at the other end. Still 300mm long, but again, was just a smidge too tight and didn't offer adequate wiggle room for alignment.
  
• Attempt #3 - and the final design *I think*, is a 125x190 oval all the way along, 300mm long.

In fact, that is a very shortened version of events, conveniently missing out the fact I got the right 'ump with the whole project, and if somebody had banged on the garage door and offered me sensible money to buy the car, I would've gladly waved it goodbye (yes, I am officially getting fed up with it now...4yrs of constant research and tinkering is a bloody long time in anyones book)

Anyway, rather than waste time, it was time to call it a night in the garage, plant myself in front of the TV and watch the Sebring 12hrs whilst building a new spreadsheet. If in doubt, put it in a spreadsheet.....like I don't get enough practice with that in the day job....

What I wanted to do was try and pin down the likely supported hp for each size, working out the surface area and %-age difference relative to each other. In the pic below, the bottom line is an off-the-shelf filter, supporting (conservatively, apparently) 600hp. Trouble is, it's just too big in diameter, and I can cater for 300mm long rather than 220mm. Surprising how just making it an oval, even with a narrow diameter, can increase the surface area and get to within a few % of the JC60/149.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2022.51.07.png

So, not a complete evening off, despite not being in the garage. The eventual winner was the 125x190; still tight, and to be honest, I'm having second thoughts about maybe downsizing. We'll see what Andy says, but this is what the mockup looks like:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D1009166B6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9AAF6DAA42.jpg

...you tend to eat a lot of cereal with these projects...

Next job, the one I've been dreading....start making the inlet tract.

The clamps I made the other day work a treat, makes life a lot easier to cut them (not as easy as having a bandsaw, but hey...)

After HOURS of trying/replacing/altering/swearing (a lot)....I got the hardest bend sorted - the one that enters the turbo inlet through the rear tinware. I won't kid you, it's really tight, and needed the corrugated cooling shroud exit hose to be crushed a little to allow the 76mm pipe to protrude. When I mocked this up using card templates, the plan was for 2x 60º bends to be chopped and welded to make a open "S" bend. First complication, the company I bought the ally pipes from sent me 2 x 60º bends, but 70mm not 76mm. They overnighted replacements out to me, but only had 1x 60º in stock until mid April. Dammit. As it happens, the bend that actually worked the best was a 15º one!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...97F11D5D77.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CFE199BA40.jpg

My Brother then ably assisted with the 3rd and 4th hands necessary to hold everything in place whilst measurements were taken. After only an hour, we ended up with the following. Duct tape...best tool in the toolbox... (still wish I had a TIG welder to tack it though...)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5119254A7C.jpg

Pretty pleased with the efforts; the duct rises high enough to clear most of the sensors on the black anodized bracket. The two that are a little close are the fuel and oil pressure senders, which I'm going to move backwards on the bracket (i.e. rightwards), then re-use that tapped hole to mount a bracket that will be welded onto the duct, in order to hold it. I'll also try and find somewhere similar at the back of the pipework near the filter.

It also clears the engine lid hinges; some eyeballing revealed that the top of the fuel filter was approximately the max height in order to clear. Using this as the max, the position of the pipework relative to the air filter is also where I want it.

Note to self - must NOT forget to weld in the -8AN fitting to the duct, for the vent from the turbo oil catch tank.

The 4x fuses that normally install on the outside of the fuse/relay board on the LH wing, will have to have a new home, absolutely no chance of them fitting where they once did, nor will the plastic cover (with bulge to cover the fuses). So, a quick bit of ally fabrication, and a simple cover will be made.

I'm planning on getting the duct powder coated; pity not to anodise it to match the other pipework, but it's going to be a wrestle to install and remove, so I imagine will look very tatty, very quickly. I may even copy what one of the guys with his 600hp Exige has done, and cover them with heat reflective material....although, in his situation, the whole engine bay is getting the heat from his exhaust system, not the same situation for us.

In other news....

• The dyno is officially booked (can't remember if I've already mentioned that)....13th/14th/15th April
• A van is booked for the week
• Waiting for the loom pinouts to be sent, so I can start plugging them into the base map
• Time to re-learn how to use the MBE s/w....

I'm also investigating how to re-route the AC lines. This was always going to be the case, but impossible to try and deduce until the engine is back in.

Stock lines:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6059303300.jpg

....Chris has kindly forwarded me a couple of pics and ideas. I now need to see which combination of parts I could use. The stock lines ware going to run under the IC; if I change them to remove the ridiculous 160º bend, then it only reduces the amount of space available for the air filter:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BEFD160DE8.jpg

The last section of rubber hose may have to be replaced, or at least chopped...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...95A3C34B39.jpg

....then re-terminated with some right angle fittings, like these --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2013.14.05.png

Which will then screw onto something like these:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2013.10.07.png

...or possibly another option would be to see if there's a difference Denso manifold that can bolt onto the side of the compressor.....dunno yet, all TBD.

Time for an update...not too much to report of late, been very busy at work.

So, we're now only 10 days away from being on the dyno and a public holiday 4-day weekend here in the UK.

Andy @ ITG is now getting on with making the custom air filter for me; not going to be cheap, but then, custom work never is....This will be arriving with me in good time for the dyno session, and with the correct intake system now made, I feel a lot more comfortable that we'll be mapping against the actual intake rather than a hastily mocked-up temporary pipe.

Over the lunch break I managed to get over to Pete the welder, where he and Lewis could tack the intake pipework into place. A quick jaunt back home to trial fit it, then back to fully weld it, and we now have a completed tract:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F000DA9207.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...935CF186B4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...53C563A131.jpg

And in place in the engine bay (fixing bracket was only tacked at this point)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C286E895B8.jpg

Does anyone have a view whether the clearance in this pic is too little? Bear in mind that I'm now using 964RS engine mounts along with TurboKrafts stiffer gearbox tail mount, so there *should* be minimal movement...but if so, then I may need to relieve this small area. Reluctant, as I don't want to impede airflow unnecessarily. I've also got to weld on the -8AN fitting for the turbo oil catch tank breather. --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9EF640D370.jpg

At the moment I just have the one mounting plate that bridges across to the sensor bracket assembly. I have made another secondary bracket that attaches to the outboard end of the 90º pipe, about 150-180mm away from where the filter will connect....however....this tract pipe is a really fiddly thing to get into place as it is - if I go and weld on another 150mm long bracket, it's certainly not going to help the situation.

The plan is to use this pipe as-is on the dyno, where I'll be filming the engine anyway. If it looks stable enough then great. If not, then I'll have to go with Plan B, either conceding that this pipe will have to be in two halves and cutting it somewhere convenient, or maybe re-thinking the second bracket design; possibly just a short bracket welded onto the tract, onto which an extension can be bolted and aligned with the target mount point on the engine. We'll see.

In addition to the fabricating work, I've also been in contact with Charlie at Griffiths (a fellow Pelicanite, "Kuehl") regarding the A/C part of the project. They can indeed supply a different manifold for the Nippon Denso pump, with the feed and return pipework connecting from the back of the pump instead of on top of the RH side. Some different fittings will be needed, but he can also supply the latest barrier hosing for the flexi sections. I confess to not even being aware that there were new types of hosing for A/C lines; but apparently, the old style rubber was porous, so a good potential upgrade to be had.

In order to assist with trial fitting the intake tract, I finally got around to removing the old lines with the daft 160º bends. So long as the I can, I plan on running new lines underneath where the air filter will be sitting and behind the engine, instead of underneath the intercooler. I can predict that this will involve raising and lowering the engine a number of times to make up the new pipes/hoses!

More updates over the weekend.....

Perfect ! ;-)

Haha, I'm sure it's not, but thanks mate!

Ok, some updates for this weekends progress…

A few weeks ago, I managed to source a very lightly used rear engine lid latch mechanism; mine had suffered from the weather, and it didn’t look to be a 5 minute job to strip it down and get it replated (the 2x tubes that lock each half together are swaged, plus, trying to reassemble tensioned springs is the stuff of pure annoyance IME). Bluntly, the cost of buying the item from the US far outweighed the time spent messing about on mine.

Old unit vs “new”….

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6F09EE1C2E.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...AC9B511974.jpg


First job for yesterday was to get together a few jobs for welding - a couple of things on the intake tract that I forgot, plus a re-working of the front intercooler mount as well as welding some lifting loops that I’m now using for hoisting the engine…more of which in a moment.

So, after some thinking about whether a second mount on the pipework was needed, I decided it was. Time to chop up the first attempt at a bracket that I made (didn’t like it anyway…plus Pete picked-up on the rubbish radius that I hastily added, lol), and that’s now positioned just after the 90º bend, filter side:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...79C2567264.jpg


Also, I completely forgot to add the -8AN boss to couple the breather from the turbos oil drain tank. This is nicely hidden underneath the pipework, and will use a 90º -8AN fitting to couple it to the hose.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FF5DB517D2.jpg


The re-worked intercooler mount; this was needed because the final positioning of the IC is just a little further back than the slots on the bracket will allow. I reworked the stock slots a few weeks ago, but the front-most one ended up being an open ended slot, and when fixed in position was only just grabbed by the nut/washer. So, a quick chop of that corner, and a new fillet piece made, chamfered and welded:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BC86847F08.jpg

After the dyno, I’ll either get this re-plated or I may well just fabricate a new one in ally and get it anodised, with a slight re-orientation of the boost control valve. However, this will be more than sufficient for the dyno work next week.

Yesterday afternoon saw me getting the engine back out again. All clearance work complete (apart from AC lines, but that’s post-dyno anyway) so it’s time to start prepping it for mapping. Removal was a pig of a job; I was saying to a mate last night that I think I got a little complacent with how smoothly the re-installation went (with my Dad) a few weeks ago, and had assumed that as this was a dry-run install it should drop out very easily….but anyway, no damage was done apart from to the STUPID clutch slave cylinder hydraulic pipe. Why did they think it was a good idea to mount it under the gearbox instead of looping it over the top (but still keeping it lower than the slave cylinder)??!!???….Anyway, this was looking very manky anyway, so I had debated whether to replace it with -3AN braided line, like Rob has done with his resto on Rennlist…decision now made.

Today’s work has been to strike off those To-Do list jobs on the whiteboard, which can only be done with the engine back out.

I’ve now made the second part of the rear inlet tract support bracket. My attempt at being double-jointed in order to markup the position of the tag on the pipe whilst in the car, looks to have been slightly off….meaning it wasn’t exactly parallel with the bracket I originally wanted to mount it from (perpendicular to the ground)…so, the option of using some ally 90º stock wasn’t available, it’d mean another trip over to Petes during the week to fab something up. Instead, I decided to make it out of mild steel, and it’ll be gold passivate plated to match the other items on the engine.

Very pleased with how it’s come out, no need for any slotting of mount holes, everything lines up like a charm, re-using one of the IC mount plate fixings:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DB49921830.jpg

I’ll get Pete to weld on an M6 nut to the bracket for fixing to the pipework, but again, a nyloc will be fine for next week.

A quick re-shape of the middle mount to keep it more like the IC pylon mounts, and slight relocation of the oil and fuel pressure senders:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...19159BD54E.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2E7F11E91D.jpg

Talking of Pete, he came over on his latest new toy earlier, brand new Ducati Panagali 1199 Superleggera…..my jaw literally fell, and it’s not often that happens. Of course I knew he had it, but I’d not seen it until today; the pics don’t come close to conveying just how bright the red paintwork is….think 1980’s TAG McLaren Honda’s….this thing is just uber, dripping in carbon, magnesium, titanium and “one off” type hardware. I think it’s now done about 200-300 miles. Stunning.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6B3AE3D4AA.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BB6F0A15F1.jpg

Finally, on recommendation from Chris, I'm now triangulating the lifting bar for the engine, using the factory rear mount near the breather chimney, plus using the 2x engine mount pickups instead of the handle-sized hole in the middle of the engine bar. A couple of threaded loops and load spreading plates are perfect, but the loops weren't welded shut, only bent around. So, Pete quickly buzzed them to prevent any unbending:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...A5FA0B5F9A.jpg

And that's about it for this evening....

Brief update this evening....

• Remaining tinware M6 bolts now installed..bit of a wrestle to get them all lined up, but all tightened up now.
• Some parameters in the base map have now been made, these were to set the programmable pins...homework is currently being marked by Steve ahead of next week.
• Fittings for the turbo drain tank breather are now here. I was a little concerned that oil *could* be sucked up from the tank by the vacuum being created in the inlet tract. This could be an absolute non-issue, as the lubrication for the GT35R is far less than that for the journal bearing in the original K27...and the breather is at the top of the tank....and the suction outlet for the scavenge pump is right at the bottom....
  
  ...But just in case, for the sake of £50-60, Think Auto were able to supply the nice little Mocal one-way flap valve. Only very light pressure required to open it, so perfect for this application. With some -8AN fittings it can happily sit in the length of hose between tank and inlet pipe. No oily vapour fumes to dirty the engine, and if for some reason the scavenge pump fails, oil won't travel back up into the turbo via this route.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...49EA012C21.jpg

I also asked about inline filters, specifically to install into the oil return between the scavenge pump and the main oil tank, just to catch any coking or, God-forbid, any foreign objects from the turbo itself, should it decided to have a "moment".

These are available in -4, -6 and -8 sizes, so after the dyno session, I'll remove the pipe/hose and get crimped fittings added into the new section of hose that they crimped onto the rigid section last year....another £40 safeguard which I know a lot of the guys over in the 930 Turbo forum have applied.

Evening gang.

Ok, minor update time...and a slight U-turn with the previous post.

Chris and I have been chatting overnight about the intake system, with one item being the need for a check valve on the drain tank breather.

In short, it's overkill and not needed;

• The GT35R will require far lighter oiling than the K27
• There's a blooming great auxiliary pump scavenging the reduced amount of oil in the tank anyway
• There's not going to be any (significant) vacuum in that inlet tract; it's not a sealed chamber, so likely no draw of fluid up the breather.
• The breather hose is about 500mm and vertical for most of it's length
• And not least of which, the valve won't fit! There's a lot of stuff in the area where the breather hose passes; hot charge pipe, wastegate hoses, cooling shroud vent. With the 2x -8AN fittings on either end, it's a surprisingly large unit to try and accommodate.

So, I'll return this back to Think Automotive next time I'm passing. Instead, Tino @ Think sent me out an in-line Mocal filter which I've plumbed into the return line from the drain tank to the auxiliary pump.

Again, some sage advice from Chris. Rather than place it in the return line from pump > tank which would protect the tank from any shrapnel from a failed pump, it's better to protect the pump from any coked oil or a failed turbo. Apparently this is more likely, the pumps generally being extremely robust*. So a filter with a 120um gauze and -8 fittings is now sitting inline with the return line that runs along the 1-2-3 valve cover.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6BD72129C8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E906073D10.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E65A37D6FC.jpg

These units are tiny, very simple and can be opened and cleaned very easily.

A quick spacer "shim" knocked up this afternoon to sit between the engine mount bar and the engine itself. Mount bar deliberately reversed in order to locate the engine in the bay where I need it to be.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...4ED9C31641.jpg

M5 penny washers now installed on the heat shield fixings, sandwiching the fibrous washers I made a few weeks ago. Nylocs swapped for spring washers and plain nuts, as intended.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...4DBC33BB16.jpg

Still a couple of jobs left on the To Do list, then it's time for a top-to-bottom nut and bolt check before loading the engine into the van.



[*insert "Commentators Curse" here]