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Not too much progress over the weekend, busy doing other things, but here's what's happened since the last update.
First off, the query about the different nuts has been put to rest. A couple of folk over on the 964/993 forum confirmed that they have the same nuts as the new ones I have...a chat with Bill Verburg also confirmed that he's running the slimmer items on his car (thanks Bill). The rear nuts on the end of the driveshafts are the same as the old ones I've just removed, but upon speaking to the guys at my OPC, they confirmed that none of the superceded part numbers for the front nuts have ever included the p/n of the rear nuts; they've never been the same item. So, it looks like somebody in the cars previous life has grabbed a pair of nuts off of the rear of another car and fitted them to the front of "my" car. Also, the threads were coated with copperslip. The Porsche workshop manual calls for the use of Optimoly HT which is aluminium in colour and to my knowledge, Porsche have never used copperslip on the 964. Bit of a giveaway that it's been apart before (thanks for the info on the Optimoly HT, John; a long historic reply of yours that I Googled earlier!). If you notice in the previous side-by-side pic, there are witness marks on the left of each face on the hex...which look suspiciously like impact/hammer gun markings. So, mind was at rest to go ahead and fit the nuts I had; the p/n was again confirmed by the OPC that it is the latest revision. My mate Ian very kindly borrowed the biggest torque wrench I've eve seen from his work - a Dunlop item and regularly calibrated. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...792A9A4AAF.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BBF6DDF251.jpg Threads lightly coated, along with the flanged faces of the nut, and it was a doddle to re-torque everything....me on the end of the 3ft breaker, him on the wrench. Nothing remarkable about a picture of a nut, only that it may help somebody in the future with a similar question as I had... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E93D6C9011.jpg I now have the hall effect (HE) sensors back from Simon, who's done a great job of re-terminating them with the correct Sureseal plugs to interface with the ECU loom. Proper job, double sleeved with Raychem DT25 for robustness and resin bonded ends to seal everything. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...83D429C1F2.jpg Finally this evening, I finished the wastegate screamer pipes, cutting them down to the length I want. Long enough to ensure that the hot gases/flames don't damage anything, but short enough to maintain ground clearance.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...52779CE947.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D4CB5A6302.jpg |
Hi Spencer!
Great the pipes of waste-gate! ;-) |
Hi Pat, cheers mate!
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Tonights end-of-week progress report....
The hot-side silicon hose arrived during the week, a step-down (or step-up...) straight coupling from 63mm > 76mm and 125mm long. Next job was to cut the pipe down a little, from this... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...63ABF4AFE4.jpg To this, with the raw end swaged. Tape is just marking the top of the new hose with it set at it's max lowest position on the compressor outlet.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E5B95F1B34.jpg And then time to get it into place, set the height correctly, and it's another job finished. The Mikalor clamps are a lot easier to get to now (most of the issue was the reworking of the rear tinware, which severely limited the orientation and access of the clamps), so mission accomplished with nice tight clamping at both ends. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...78E2223C43.jpg |
Onto the traction control tasks, the caps and sensor stand-offs were plated during the week - another quick drive down the road to collect them....another great job by Butterworths (Regia) Ltd....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...97EF92E560.jpg First job was to install some timeserts into the M5 retaining holes. As stock, they're too long for the wall thickness of the caps, and would foul the ABS timing wheel immediately behind the cap. So, a piece of scrap ally of the same thickness, drill & tap the timesert hole and insert the timesert into it....remove the majority of the excess with side cutters, then grind them flat on the offhand grinder. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BC5F088DB3.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...20326899EA.jpg Then it's just a case of carefully removing them (at this point they're only 3mm thick, so a little fragile) and wind them into the caps, removing the tang afterwards.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...250FE31195.jpg Time to then build them up with the standoffs and HE sensors, along with cutting down a pair of stainless M5 capheads, so that they also don't protrude into the ABS wheel.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F20BF3C63A.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...16C71E28B8.jpg Installed into the hub.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5BBF773EFF.jpg And cable routed and retained... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6B55CE1630.jpg Finally, refit the rear traction control HE sensor standoffs, all nice and black.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F19F8C415F.jpg And that's it for this evening. Bumpers and fire extinguisher tomorrow.... |
Spencer, I adore tone concerns(marigolds) of the detail! :)
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Hi Pat...you mean the black anodised vs the gold passivate bolts?
(In England, these are marigolds... :D;) ) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3ddb095d02.jpg |
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Everything is thought well in greatest detail, I hope that one days I could make an equivalent in EFI on mine. I do not understand everything and thus that slows down me but that does not prevent me from being very admiring of your made work! |
Lots of progress this weekend...still no fire extinguisher activity, but still, many jobs now finished.
The front bumper is now bolted into position for the final time, the headlight washers plumbed in, and the freshly powdercoated reinforcement strips now banished from being stored in the house. After this, the inner arches were installed - still can't believe how long these apparently easy bolting-in-place jobs take to do, time consuming to find the correct fasteners and get everything to realign with the new "speednuts" (panel clips). All fasteners given a quick spray with wax to protect from the elements....despite all this, I'm still a few fasteners short, God knows where they've gone, but I guess it's to be expected after 4yrs and countless moving around of parts boxes. Next job was to reinstall the plastic steering rack cover - another large and fragile item gone from the workshop, but there was a job to do before it could be fitted; in addition to the plastic flange nuts that hold it, there are 2x M6x16 hex head bolts, however, somebody in the cars previous life had tried to remove the LH bolt, and sheared it flush in the aluminium cross beam. Some careful drilling, ensuring the hole was central, to try and use an extractor tool. This went fine, but the extractor tool didn't grip well enough (I never have success with the lefthand threaded tap-like tools, waste of space in the toolbox). So, time to drill and re-tap it to M6, which went perfectly smoothly, no snapped taps this time! So, the cover is now fitted. Rear bumper and sharkfin next. I started this a few weeks ago, and for some reason I was struggling to get everything aligned but did eventually get everything tightened....then went back into the workshop and found the 2x U-channel supporting ribs that install under the flange of the bumper, sitting on the parts shelf....one sense-of-humour failure later and I decided to just leave it. I went back to it with a clear head this afternoon, installed the ribs and it all just aligned fine....weird! Whether by being installed for a few weeks, the plastics have re-shaped subtly, I don't know, but it's all now done. The RH shark-fin supporting tie-rod is now fitted - I mentioned before that these were missing on my car when I bought it, so this was a good job done, and certainly adds rigidity to that bottom corner ahead of the rear wheel. With the rear bumper attached to the rear quarter panel, it was time to finally tighten the 2x M12 mounting bolts at the back....and then time to line up the exhaust tail pipes and fasten them. I spent a few hours yesterday messing around with the OE engine fusebox cover. With the new intake pipework, The fuses that were once mounted on the outside of the ally mounting plate have now had to be relocated to the inside, which wasn't too difficult, as there are quite a few items that have been removed, not needed when removing the CIS system. However, the plastic cover has a bulge to cover these external fuses, and needs to be removed. A few months ago I tried to make a new cover from sheet ally, but it looked a bit rubbish and was ill fitting. So, I thought I'd rework the plastic one, it's only a $12 item so no harm done if it all goes wrong. I started by cutting out most of that bulge... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F03014F7F0.jpg Then had to enlarge it a little, before spending a lot of time making an aluminium panel that will fit behind the plastic. Lots of compound curves, so was quite tricky to make it accurately. The plan is/was to then get it powdercoated in satin black to try and match the plastis, but the lack of photos tells you that I'm not convinced this second attempt is going to look any good either. What I may do, is to install the ally fill-in panel, then use this as a template to take a mould from, then make a new unit, either fibreglass or carbon fibre (Rob, stand-by, I may be giving you a shout for some advice! I've never done any CF work, and very little FG, but you've got the knack mate!) Last job this evening was to address the rear engine lid latch. Really annoyingly, after taking the trouble to source a very nice looking latch from the US and waiting for it to be shipped over, I noticed the other day that the engine bay lamp should be on, but wasn't. Some quick diagnostics showed that one of the wires from the microswitch has fractured... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...25E6BD0E89.jpg Terrific. This part cannot be removed without stripping the whole bloody unit, which is swaged shut with 2 tubes that double as the mounting holes. If I was going to go to this much trouble, I wouldn't have bought a new unit, I would've stripped the one I had and got it re-plated (which was all that was wrong with it, it was just looking tired). Now I've got to retrieve the old unit, strip that one as well and swap over the microswitches....the wire sheared right up against the switch housing, so no way to repair without butchering the plastic. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B8579A7460.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...58D3A13412.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FF95C04735.jpg I said earlier that there was no fire extinguisher activity - not quite true - I think I've got my head around where I want to mount the 4x nozzles in the top half of the engine bay, and the type of brackets I need to mount them. Whether I make them from steel or ally, they'll need plating, so at the same time, I may as well get the latch re-plated. Time to hop onto p27 and cross off a few more jobs from the list....back in a few days... |
Fire Extinguisher Installation...
...at last...
Decided to just get stuck-in this evening, frustrating though it is to undo all the intake system in order to get to the back of the engine bay. I now REALLY wish I'd installed the pipework before putting the engine back in. First job, decide how to run the hoses, where the T-pieces are going to be and then the nozzle placement.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...450A57BE4A.jpg Then, run a mainline from the tank, along the tunnel and through the grommet behind the handbrake. (none of the hoses are fixed in place yet, nor are the nozzles orientated correctly) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...50DB5FB851.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...95C5BE5FF7.jpg The tank has a dual outlet fitting, intended that one side remains in the cabin feeding 2x nozzles, then the remaining 4 go off to an engine bay. I'm not doing this, instead, the dual outlet will be replaced with a single outlet when it goes for filling, but this does now mean I'm a T-piece short, I need a 5th. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...67746A0E89.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5E826DAAE8.jpg The mainline will then branch off using 2x T's; the main branch continuing into the top half of the engine bay. The lower branch to the lower half of the engine. Both the top and bottom will further split to feed left and right sides, then further split to supply left rear/left front + right rear/right front. The lower nozzles will be L&R and aiming at the turbo and wastegate areas. Each length of 8mm ally tubing has to have a heat resistant sleeve applied, and I decided to terminate each sleeve with glue-lined heatshrink... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D1FDD1DDC8.jpg So, this evening I got the mainline in, the continuation run to the top half of the engine, the intake system dismantled and the right hand feed in place, plus both nozzles installed. In other words, about a third of the way there! (albeit, the hardest third to get to) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C46DC399EC.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...EE3A24DE2E.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3D72CFBBE9.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D806E2C8C1.jpg Work will continue tomorrow evening.... |
Evening folks,
Some steady progress for the last few weeks, not much happening during the week, but some solid work being done this weekend. The nemesis job - the fire extinguisher - is almost done. With so much "stuff" packing the engine bay, it's a chicken-and-egg situation with installing before or after the engine/gearbox goes back in...very easy to look back and regret not putting it in first, but it could have gone wrong with the positioning of the nozzles or the routing of the hoses potentially fouling something....so, I guess I have done it the correct way around...but BLOODY HELL it's a pain in the arse to fit retrospectively. I've lost count how many times I've smashed my head on the gearbox/heat pipes/dampers/brake discs, perfect ingredients for monumental sense-of-humour-failures. Anyway, it's almost done now, so I do feel as though I can start to think we're on the home straight. I ended up dismantling the whole intake system (well, not the manifold), so that I could route the pipes perfectly, forming them around the chassis and ensuring that they're held in place nicely with either p-clips or the nylon straps that Porsche use onto the chassis studs. Very happy with how this now looks, discrete and OEM like...would look even better if the nozzles were black instead of blue! ;) All 6 nozzles and their lines are now in, as-is the main run from the bottle. Not a lot to show over-and-above the photo's posted previously. This weekend was spent doing a couple of odd jobs:
So, quite a few large and bulky items now back onto the car and out of my workshop. The rest of the time was spent changing the brake and clutch fluid on the Lotus, and making the 6 brackets to mount the extinguisher nozzles exactly where I want them to aim, either in the engine compartment or under the engine... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...92B3EAA15A.jpg It all looks "remarkably unremarkable", but it's another job that looks simple but takes forever to cut, check, drill, bend, re-check, file, adjust, trim and then clean up with fine abrasive, ready for anodising (black).....will post more pics once they're back and mounted; hopefully somebody will find it useful in terms of where aim them and where to mount them from. The bottle is away being filled with gas, hopefully will get that back midweek'ish. Next job is to wire the control box>big red switch>bottle....very simple, just a few hours with heatshrink, soldering iron and the multimeter. |
Hi Spencer ! Courage for what remains in you to make on your car, you are there almost! ;-)
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Hey gang, a very brief update this evening....lots of thinking behind the scenes, but not a huge amount of progress that worthy of a detailed write-up or photographs.
Easy one first - the above brackets are now back with me, nice-n-black and mostly back on the car with nozzles installed and tightened. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...99C36C8DCC.jpg The bottle is also back, filled and altered to remove the "T" fitting and install a single outlet... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1B82319D9E.jpg Next one, I'm onto brakes. I was hoping to make-do with the existing discs; they've looked tired since I took the car off the road, and I was aware of corrosion on the inner faces, but I had hoped that by removing them and spending some time with a wire brush on the end of an angle-grinder, they'd tidy up well enough for me to get the car mobile and do the low speed mapping. For sure, they'd get replaced before using the car normally, but this is just a case of postponing a £1,500 bill! But...the fronts are way past recovery. The inner faces show evidence of only the central third having decent pad contact, the inner and outer diameters are really badly pitted. Also, when cleaning out the vanes and the inner bells, a tonne of rust was removed....worryingly of course, this is structural brake disc material. I've not yet removed the rear discs/calipers. A job I'd wanted to do since I bought the car, was to get the calipers refurbished and nicely repainted. This is now looking like a priority job, based upon the fact that tonight I removed the RH caliper to try and ID the pads (bizarrely considering the inner face issue, they felt very strong with great initial bite)...the inner pad was seized, no way was that going to slide nicely. With what I could see with the pads in situ, I thought that a previous owner had perhaps installed Pagid RS4-2 "Blue" pads...signs of blue paint but again looking tired. Turns out they're a brand called "SBS"...not heard of them before, but some light Googling shows that they seem to be a brand well known in biking circles. There's about 9mm left on each, but seeing as I'm going to the lengths of a complete refurb, to skimp on pads now seems a bit daft. So...thoughts are that either I go for:
Anything that chucks metal filings out the wheels (Hawk) are no-go, and if they don't throw a tonne of dust over the wheels, that would be great. I used Pagid RS-29's (yellow) on my previous GT3, a 6-pot caliper along with Alcon floating discs....not bad, initial bite wasn't the best, and were quite fussy in terms of bedding them in correctly. I never tracked the car, so can't comment on durability or resistance to fade (although they're supposed to be awesome) So, the shopping list this week now has:
Regarding the caliper rebuild, robt964 over on Rennlist used a company called Brake Caliper Refurbs, who looked to have done a superb job. Speaking with Rob, a few years down the line and he's still very happy with their work, which involves vapour blasting to remove paint, triple sanding the faces to get them ultra smooth, then acid etching before painting/lacquering. Finally, a ceramic coating is applied (similar to a nano coating) that increases the resistance to brake dust. I gave BCR a call this lunchtime to chat this through; for the work involved, including replacing all fluid seals, re-plating the spider clips, full refurb of the sliding plates, and if needed, new dust seals (I'll get them done as a matter of course) and new bleed nipples, it's money very well spent. You wont get anywhere near with a DIY effort by the time you buy the paint, seals, new screws, etc, etc..not to mention re-applying the Porsche logo on the faces. I have better things to spend my time on. Check out their FaceBook page for plenty of examples of their work..... https://www.facebook.com/BrakeCaliperRefurbs I think I've decided to go for red, a-la Porsches "S" models....a departure from the stock external look that I've gone for so far (apart from brake ducts and clear indicators), but it's a bit of a nod to something-not-quite-being-stock-under-the-hood ;) So, about to be very broke again this week! :D |
Spencer--
Use the stock factory pads for street driving. They are the best compromise between cost, dust and fade. . .with the most important criteria being cold grip. In my old '88 Carrera I used Porterfield R4S for autocross duty. . . and then decided to leave them in following the event. Took the car out one cold fall morning and hit the brakes. . . and kept going-- fortunately there was room in the next lane over behind the car ahead of me. . . all of which I used to get the car stopped before the red light. Lesson learned-- race pads for race, street pads for street and nary the 'twain. . . Of course the sky's the limit on brakes. . . but I agree with your approach, restore the stock system for now. . . .I expect you will want more braking power to match your go power but that can be sorted out later. Great progress on the last 10% that take 90% of the time! |
Hi John,
Yep, I'm decided on not going for a track pad for sure....the Pagid S range is very definitely marketed as a road pad, not track, and about half the cost of the Pagid RS (track) range...we'll see what they can do on price when I speak to them! Pagid do give a nice set of friction numbers for their race range, and their RS-5 (another "Blue" pad) looks great, apart form there's no comparative numbers for their road pad range (the "S"), so it's difficult to judge whether 0.43 @ cold, and 0.45 @ 100ºC is better or not....I'm curious more from the Lotus angle rather than wanting to fit them to the Turbo; I did read on one of the sites who sell Pagid, that Lotus Motorsport (the guys who built my Cup240) choose one of the Pagid RS (the 4-2 iirc) as their pad of choice for upgraded models. You're not wrong about the last 10%!! When I flick back to the beginning of the project write-up, what seemed to be at the time a very pedestrian engine build, was actually a lot more productive in terms of elapsed time vs jobs completed. Cheers S |
If you go away from street pads, then look no further than Performance friction. Beats anything pagid has. I have the PF08 and both pads and rotors lasts forever. Cold grip is a little worse than stock, buttstock not dangerously bad.
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A solid evenings work....messy, but productive!
All four corners are now dismantled. Having bought a set of Laser hose clamps, I can whole-heartedly say DON'T BOTHER....load of crap. The first one snapped the pivot on first use, the others twist so much that they don't effectively clamp the hose. They can go back. So, time to must a collection of mole grips; the stock rubber hoses are going in the bin anyway. All 4 link pipes from rubber hose > caliper now need replacing...thought they would, they twisted when undoing them, due to corrosion on the 11mm ferrule. So, here's the motley bunch of black(ish) calipers.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5F9A84AD76.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...99ABAA8DA7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...A2ABDC8B15.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9597251975.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...28BD25EFBC.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7E5D8E3544.jpg And a stack of rusty iron.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B56CE24DFD.jpg The handbrake assembly also looking second-hand, so will probably replace these shoes as well, giving everything a thorough clean, and be done with it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2183DECB40.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C8D22B54FF.jpg And the front hub assy.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...17078D04E5.jpg I've just got to employ some self-restraint and not get sucked into stripping everything like backing plates, hubs, ball joints, etc, in order to start replacing or refurbishing...otherwise I'll still be writing updates on this project this time next year. |
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Funnily enough, the vendor who I'll likely get the discs from are also a PF reseller...but as John said above, I really don't want to be sacrificing any cold bite performance ;) Very interested in which Pagid pads you've tried? (brake pads, like engine oil is the stuff of religious debate the world over!) |
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Went down from using 2 set of rotors a year to a set of rotors and pads lasting for years. However they are to aggressive for only Road use. If the purpose is Road I would go with original from Porsche. Important, from Porsche, not OEM from generic supplier. Not the same stuff... |
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Is this what you're referring to? I.e., Original Porsche part numbered pads are NOT the same as OEM Textar? |
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