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I was raised with a mixture of British and American cop shows. Won't go off on a pages-long tangent here and now ("Phew!", said everyone in relief), other than to say that when I moved from Bristol to Southern California in 1981, I thought anyone could live in a caravan, aka camper on the side of Pacific Coast Highway near Malibu ... like Jim Rockford. Not so!
That's a neat detail, how the two bushing halves are indexed to one another. They are much simpler on an SC/Carrera. I look forward to your plating results. Stay well, John |
Minor update - the electroplating kit and my power supply have arrived. I've got sod-all food in the house, but I do have chemicals. Wait, that came out wrong...
Power supply looks fine; it got about 270 reviews at >4.5* on Amazon, about the most reviewed PSU of this type and price range, so that's the one I went with, although preferred the look of another lesser reviewed model. However it's not about the looks, it's just got to do a very simple job. This supply is also going to be use useful for other non plating functions; testing circuit boards and other such things I can't think of right now. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9405.jpg Unfortunately, I must've had a mad moment the other day when ordering - I discussed with them about the Nickel Zinc kit, and then went and ordered the Bright Nickel plating kit. More expensive and doesn't have any of the zinc electrolytes, zinc anodes or passivate chemicals. What a dumbass. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...sizerender.jpg But it looks very comprehensive. The correct additional items are going to be dispatched on Monday, along with a proper-big book on plating. Not required (they provide printed instruction pamphlets) but hey, if you're going to do it, then overdo it. Not sure whether to hang onto the bright nickel "stuff" or send it back - can't immediately think of a requirement for it, as being a 964 there's no brightwork. |
Font suspension teardown time....
Making a start with the calipers, disc and backing plate removed. Scabby looking, can't wait to get this cleaned! https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9406.jpg The ARB drop link has seen it's best days... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9407.jpg And once everything is removed, time to attempt the solo stub axle nut removal. Preferably without smashing my teeth out. You may just be able to see form this pic, but what I've done here is rig up the 3/4" sq drive breaker bar to the head of the bolt, levering against the garage floor, and being kept in place with a ratchet tie-down strap. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9421.jpg And by jove, it blooming well worked. The Snap On torque multiplier on the outside, again, levering against the floor while I then used my 1/2" sq drive breaker bar (and a range of adapters) to bounce on, and it then slowly relented. Happy days! What is a little more Heath Robinson was the rig I needed to construct in the hydraulic press, to remove the hub from the upright. It didn't help that all-of-a-sudden the hand pump on the press decided not to deliver much in the way of piston movement. It worked well enough at gone midnight last night, so I could finish the job. This morning, a quick check revealed that the oil level in the pump had got too low, so I guess I was just pumping air. Thankfully I have a bottle and a half of hydraulic oil stashed in my cupboards, so fingers cross that's fixed it for todays activities. In other news, I'd resigned myself to the fact the suspension parts are just going to have to be scrubbed as best I can get them. Not what I've been planning mentally for 4-5yrs, I really wanted them to be vapour blasted, but the situation dictates otherwise. However....about 20yds from my front door yesterday lunchtime was a van, signwritten with "Kent Vapour Blasting"!!! When I saw it, I did then remember picking up a pamphlet at a local bike show a few years ago - I assumed they'd also be shut and in lockdown mode. Anyway, I gave them a call yesterday late pm, and lo-and-behold, Steve at KVB called me back in the early evening! I'd assumed the reason he was parked outside my house was to collect or deliver parts, but actually, it turns out his old house is across the road, now lived in by his parents!! He was dropping in some food/provisions. So, after a natter, I explained what I wanted to achieve, and we have a plan. He'll be back over dropping food off again, and will collect my parts in the same trip. A 2-3 day turnaround and then he'll do likewise and drop them back when done. HURRAHH!! The rebuilding Gods are looking kindly upon this project, it seems. Right, coffee break over, front left hand corner next.... |
Bright nickel: good for old tools?
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Right, final update for the weekend - I'm bloody knackered, lots of energy being exerted to get that final corner broken down....but I've got there. Almost.
The suspension itself came off without any drama. Much the same as the RHS except obviously I knew a few tricks this time. (The RH corner components) https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...67AB7A12C8.jpg The only bolts on the suspension to play-up are the M6 long bolts that hold the rubber brake deflector in place on the lower control arm. Two of them per wishbone and they've all sheared. Galvanic corrosion well-and-truly preventing them coming out, so I'll have to drill out what's left. Talking about galvanic corrosion...the problems started with trying to undo the aluminium castings that go fore and aft, onto which the control arm bolts. Two M12 bolts at the front, and 2x M10's at the back. The front ones screw into the chassis tub, the rear ones screw into a long plate with 2x captive threads (they're not nuts in the traditional sense). Steel bolt, no copperslip/aluslip protecting them, going through two aluminium castings into a steel nut. Guess what happens after 28 years... Plenty of penetrating fluid on everything in advance, then this evening try and get them off. The RHS ones felt a little plastic, that feeling you get when you think the heads are going to shear. So I went a tackled the LHS. With the "persuader" breaker bar, and some gentle springing, they came out without any drama. After a white dust cloud that Pablo Escabar would've been proud of, this is what you end up with.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9430.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9431.jpg Buoyed by this success I went back to the RHS, but what a pain in the arse. The outermost bolt has sheared at some point along it's length and has come out only about 3-4mm and now just spins, albeit extremely tightly. The innermost one has come out of the captive nut assembly, is about 25mm out, and is now just rotating but a lot easier than the other one. Argghhh!! The front ones came out just fine, but look very much like the above bolts. I think the only way this is going to work, is to remove that whole subframe assembly along with the steering rack and dismantle it on the ground, maybe cutting the bolts off in the gap which is there. Moving onto other things, hub and bearing removal time from the LH upright. Not the prettiest setup - and another use case for the ratchet strap - but it just about worked... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9429.jpg |
Time for another update.
A very successful, albeit very hard couple of evenings work; the front suspension has fought me every inch of the way! The RH longitudinal strut did actually come out without any problems the next day. I left some of my favourite penetrating oil soaking in overnight, and then early in the evening when it was still sociably acceptable, I got the air impact gun on the bolts, and they flew out. Well, not really, but they came out enough for me to remove just that strut rather than the whole assembly. Next job, disconnect the steering rack from the column and the power steering lines, to get the lateral beam out. Three of the four M8 allen bolts came out without any bother, the fourth one felt just like either the head was going to shear, or the allen key socket was going to round-off. Another application of penetrating fluid, an hour or so to soak, then I got the 1/2" sq drive break bar on it and used the "spring" technique - some high pressure but applied in a springy/bouncy kind of way rather than just heaving on it in one continuous pull. The repetitive shock of doing this did the trick and it finally came loose. Undoing the lateral brace was easy, but check out the galvanic corrosion that's underneath where the M10 double nut plate sits (these are the rear-most fittings for the longitudinal braces). Unbelievable, and as part of my prep work to get them vapour blasted I literally had to chisel this corrosion off, it must've been 3mm thick in places. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9466.jpg The double captive nut plate, from the RHS with remains of that sheared M10 bolt... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9463.jpg And then after some heat (loving that MAPP gas torch, used it so many times so far) and the old-trusty stud removal tool from the engine rebuild days... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9464.jpg If you look carefully at the nut that doesn't have the stud in it, you'll see the recess in the plate; on the seized bolt, this recess was full of chalky corrosion right the way up onto the bolt itself. No wonder it snapped. Before attempting removal I carefully chiselled and picked it away. Under normal circumstances, for about £5 per plate, I'd replace them....but Porsche GB haven't changed their policy on shipping parts to their dealerships (as of Tuesday this week), so no chance of getting replacements. "Make do and mend" is the theme here. Onto the front lower control arms, and the continuing job of stripping them down. Again, this has taken far longer than the rear trailing arms, these things are in there TIGHT. The front-most bush is the hardest without a doubt. It's big, and in my case - guess what - corroded in to the arm. After heating the rubber to remove the steel cores, I tried using the press, with bush removal tools, but even maxing out the hydraulics at 12 tonnes load, it wasn't moving - and frankly that's just a little scary knowing that everything is under that much tension. On one of them, the MAPP gas did suddenly allow it to break free by 5mm, but then no more. I certainly didn't want to keep applying this level of heat either. So, nothing for it but to use the hacksaw method to carefully cut the outer sleeve and release the tension. Even then, it was still an absolute pig to remove, but eventually I got them out. Next job, the rear-most split bushes. The first job is absolutely to remove the steel cores with heat. Then, you need to use a 1" hole saw to open up the I.D. This create a lot of friction with the saw, so liberal use of GT85 spray lubricant (smells great) gives the drill an easier time. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9448.jpg Now, at this point, do I try the hacksaw method again or wait until the parcel from TurboKraft arrives, with the Elephant Racing split bush removal tool? Hmmm....I'd heard mixed reports on this tool - I think Rob Goughery in his build thread, broke his on the first attempt. I ordered it "just in case" really. And then - again I think the Rebuild Gods are on my side - I got an email saying my delivery was due tomorrow instead of more than a week later! This is a turn-up for the books - both Chris and I are still in disbelief. We assumed that FedEx would just sit on it until the original stated delivery date of Thursday 16th. Decision made - I hang on and try the proper tool. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...G_9451%202.jpg Oh my God, am I glad that I did. Following Elephant Racings instructions and pre-heating the control arm locally to the bush, then using the tool, each half of the bush flew out. Literally. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9449.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9450.jpg I did try to rig it up in the press, but holding it without a proper jig was nigh-on impossible (too deep to use a bearing cup underneath), so it was time to use the "percussion method" (hit it with a big hammer). And after all that, you end up with... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9447.jpg Check out that corrosion on the front bush. That Elephant Racing split bush tool is ABSOLUTELY worth the money. No, it's not cheap but it most certainly did the trick. It's surprisingly meaty in build, and after multiple whacks with the hammer, not a sign of damage to the ends, so clearly it's been nicely hardened. The trick is not to overtighten the allen bolt once the tangs engage into the gap between each bush half. It only needs to be just over finger tight to prevent the tangs from jumping out under load. Excessively tight and you'll probably score the I.D. of the control arm. |
Next up - the delivery from TurboKraft!
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9441.jpg In there are the Tarett ARB drop links, F&R. I did originally want the Elephant Racing ones but they weren't in stock, so to save extended shipment time we went with these. They come highly recommended, and will absolutely do the job. Rubber boots for them as well. I know some folk prefer not to fit boots, preferring instead to inspect and clean the rose joints as they feel the boots can trap moisture and actually work against the whole point of them. Not sure I'm in that camp - not for here in Britain anyway, where I absolutely do want to keep any winter salt out. This is an all-year car for me, we often get gorgeous sunny winter days to enjoy the car, so I prefer that extra level of protection. The Rothsport steering rack bushes are there, along with their brace. I did laugh, as I honestly was expecting a far larger item - I'd not really studied it in much detail, going along with Chris's recommendation to fit one...Now I'm far more intimately familiar with the front suspension (!!!), of course I can see where it mounts. At the bottom are the Elephant Racing bump steer reducing steering arms. These will get sent with the rack, when that goes off for a rebuild and refurb in a few days time. They certainly look nice, and remove that rubber jointed centre section on the factory arms - these are a 1-piece arm not just the outer arms. The rest of the items are the replacement Sport bushes and monoballs for the spring plates. More of that when I come to fit them. It's rather sobering knowing that this little lot is about $3300 worth! Rachel gave me one of those wide eyed, curious eyebrow looks on FaceTime when I showed her. she's too polite to say, but I'm sure it was a "WTAF?!" moment, lol. |
When you say "ERP" do you mean "Elephant Racing" or "Eisenlohr Racing Products". Cary Eisenlohr built a reputation over many decades of being involved in racing and making racing parts. I really hate it that Elephant Racing does nothing to discourage this confusion. I suspect it was done on purpose.
Personally, I would buy from Tarett, the real ERP, or Rebel racing...... |
Final instalment for this evening, the lower control arms. Again.
In the photo in post#1266 a few days ago, you can see that the lower control arm has what's described as a rubber "air duct" bolted to the rear leg. It's held on by 2x M6 bolts, with nuts rather than tapped holes in the arm. Another "FAIL" from Porsche on this one. No lubricant, and they're absolutely seized in. The heads snap straight off, no sign of movement, all four. After trying with another smaller stud removal tool (I REALLY wish I had a smaller version of the one photographed above), the only option was to drill them out. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9465.jpg Some careful mounting on the pillar drill base, then some careful lining-up of the centre, and I decided to drill each stud from the top and again from the underside. I did try drilling one of them all the way through but it screwed up, the drill got deflected and it came out wonky underneath. Annoying nut not a big drama, I did get it out, oversized the hole to 8mm, then made a sleeve in the lathe with a 6mm hole in it. Loctite retainer then used to install into the arm. It went to prove that I clearly hadn't spent enough time getting the arm perpendicular to the drill (it is a very odd shape to try and hold, with gentle tapering on the edges). Now we're on the homeward stretch - they just needs to be degreased in the cleaning tank to get them ready for vapour blasting.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9469.jpg Even after this clean, they're already looking a lot better. Note that a lot of the factory Dinitrol is still in place, in all it's horrid brown glory. These all get collected tomorrow, and you never know, I may get them back over the 4-day Easter break we have. In the meantime, the steering rack needs to be removed (it's still hanging onto the splines of the column, but is now drained of its fluid). The rear dampers need to come off, but the intake system of the engine needs to be taken out to get to the turrets. Then, I'm going to have a go with plating stuff - the rest of my kit arrived yesterday. |
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I have that zink plating kit and the same power supply.
It takes some trial and error and very clean parts. The resultats so far have been mixed. A few practical things. Get a lot of large plasic cans to store the solutions. Get some rectangular tubs to do the plating in. Distance between the parts and the anodes are important. Get heater elements to warm the solutions, I use 500w electric heaters thats used in the coolant on cars. |
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From memory (and I really can't be arsed to go back and check), yesterdays post was the first and only time I've (as you've pointed out, wrongly) added "Products" to the description - I'm sure I've seen it elsewhere on the many threads I've read - ALL of which, by the way, eulogise about Elephant Racings products and the end result they deliver...hence why I added "Products" as I thought I was missing something. I will edit the above post. In terms of who's products are best, I'm not interested. Unless the Elephant Racing products let me down or disappoint in some other way, unlikely, then I'm comfortable in the decisions I've made. If you've read the full thread, from Day 1 I've always stated this is a ROAD car, it will likely never go on a track apart from maybe a safe testing spot. That's why I chose Elephant Racing with their sports stiffness rubber bushes. I'm not interested in poly bushes or monoballs all-round, that's for track use and requires higher maintenance. I have another track focussed car with rosejointed/monoballed suspension, Ohlins dampers and other trick bits, that's ready to go in the other garage. |
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Thanks for the advice, duly noted. Because we're in lockdown, I'll have to order the large rectangular tubs from Amazon and wait a few days (Prime is no longer a next day service over here, understandably). I have one very large plastic tray which I use for cleaning parts in, probably too shallow at approx 6" deep. Are you thinking the sort of tubs you use for storage, the kind that are 1ft x 2ft x 1.5ft deep? I did get a heater element in the kit plus an aeriator to agitate the solution. The vendors also emailed me a spreadsheet with a surface area estimator for nuts and bolts - it should give me an approximate starting point for setting the current. In my second order I also bought the electroplating book they sell, more comprehensive than the pamphlet which comes with the kit but I'm yet to grab a coffee and sit down to read it. Perhaps that's a job for this long weekend, unwind a little in the sun (my back garden, before anyone accuses me of not sticking to the Government rules) and read what it has to say. |
I don't really care what parts you use. It's your car and you should use whatever parts make YOU happy. I gave my opinion on who makes the best parts as I asked what you meant by "ERP" because it didn't appear you used any ERP parts. You can listen to my opinion or ignore it. Again, I don't really care.
I am just tired of seeing Elephant Racing parts get associated with the ERP name. ERP has an unblemished reputation in the Porsche community that Elephant Racing does not have. What happens is some people talk up ERP parts and a lot of people get confused and think people mean "Elephant Racing" when they don't. Hence why I asked what you meant and the clarification...... |
Spenny
I have 2 tubs, one for cleaning and one for plating, they are abut 1ft by 2 ft and a a little less than 1ft high (might be limited there). Pretty sturdy, made for mixing small batches of cement. Then of cause a series of buckets with tight fitting lids for the different acid baths etc. Beware the pile of buckets, tubs, containers etc will be huge :) BTW I'm pretty happy with Elephant Racings products to, at least for my semi serious street and track day cars. I find Chucks service excellent and that is in many cases just as importat as the actual products, as long as they aren't utter crap! |
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Agree with your thoughts on Elephant kit; no direct experience (yet) on how they perform, we'll see, but anything is going to be a significant improvement over the stock Turbo setup, never known for being very good, even in period. Short of swapping to Carrera trailing arms and then new wheels with accommodating offsets, I think this should work out fine. TurboKraft are also a reseller of ER parts; knowing Chris very well and thoroughly respecting his opinion is good enough for me - he doesn't resell crap products, as like any smaller company, I'm sure he can't afford to be dealing with the fallout of doing so. As alluded to earlier, the dialogue I've had with Elephant hasn't been fantastic, specifically around mating their top mounts to anything other than their own Vonn dampers, but there's no doubting the quality of their parts once their in my hand. Rob Goughary (aka "Goughary"), who's massive thread I'm following over on Rennlist, also speaks highly - not just publicly. We've exchanged many PM's over the years and his private opinion is the same after using their stuff on many 964's, which he's been working on since starting that thread. For fast road applications, it has delivered superb results for him. |
Britain sure is a corrosive environment for vehicles, huh? John
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