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do you really need oil seal installation tools?
looking to replace my rear main seal and front main behind the pulley...do i really need to spend the money on these "installation tools" to do this job?
engine is out of the car and just would like to take care of this while its out. |
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Not necessary, I just did all of mine without any "special tools". Just make sure you start the seal nice and straight, whatch for any potential hang ups/pinching, and use a suitable device to "tap" the seal in equally. (ie. no sharp edges, good surface area) I actually used a rachet extension.
Nice and simple
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Marlon 1973 911 3.0 MFI |
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Location: Northern CA
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there may be some threads around with tool examples and process
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Sold: 1989 3.2 coupe, 112k miles |
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Try not, Do or Do not
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There are any number of creative idea from sockets to cut off pieces of pvc tubing.
The important part is to insure that the lip spring does not jump off while you're pounding on the seal. I like to put three small globs of grease (Bosch point grease) in the groove behind the spring to help hold it in.
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net |
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87 - 911
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 200
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Take the seal with you to the hardware store, check the plumbing aisle to find a fitting with the right diameter. Think this what I came up with to install the rear seal.
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Quote:
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Naperville, Il
Posts: 496
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So, the answer is that you absolutely can get away without the need to buy the expensive tools. All the above responses speak to that.
On the rear seal (flywheel), use the old flywheel seal flipped so that you are back-to-back with the new seal and after positioning the new seal to sit square, tap on the old seal lightly moving around the circumference to drive in the new seal. Or, find a round flat surface (usually PVC pipe fitting from Home Depot) to lay flat on the new seal and tap on the pipe fitting. Same with the front seal.
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Ernie 98 993 C2S - Arena Red/Beige 76 914/6 3.2 Conversion - Estorill Blue/Coral Red |
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Try not, Do or Do not
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Paris
Posts: 48
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On the one underneath the pulley, I take a fresh roll of electric tape and a large washer.
I use the crank pulley bolt and tighten the seal in with the electric tape roll ... beyond the case metal lip. the electric tape will have a groove left in it. no tapping |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Naperville, Il
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Clever Geolab! Of course the new seal must be set square and not tilted before attempting to draw it into place using the crank bolt.
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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I got the specialty seal install tools with a bundle of tools for a good price. Since I have them, I use them. When the engine's out of the car, I agree 100% that these seal press tools are not necessary. But they are VERY effective!
![]() I suppose it depends on your accessibility whether or not someone would think they're ever necessary. I recall doing a crank flywheel seal with a friend on his dad's 944S. He said that having the fancy Porsche seal tool was a blessing, considering how tight the access was.
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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Quote:
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Sold: 1989 3.2 coupe, 112k miles |
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is it this tool? Looks like a good idea.
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Sold: 1989 3.2 coupe, 112k miles |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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That's the tool for the pulley end of the case.
Here's the whopper tool for the flywheel end Rear Main Seal Install with P234 tool - highly recommended
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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