Torque Spec Check!!

[Quicksilver77]

Hi all, I am in the process of doing a bit of oil leak repair on my 87 930 and was wondering on the Torques spec on:

1- Intermediate shaft cover bolts (no idea on this one)
2- Crank pulley bolt (rumor has it 150 foot-pounds?)

Thanks in advance for sharing your wealth of knowledge!

[KTL]

Intermediate shaft is snug and that's all. The sealing is done by the o-ring on the cover. If you really want to torque it, get out your in-lbs torque wrench and torque it to 6 lbs/72 in-lbs. That's plenty.

Crank pulley bolt depends on whether or not it has A/C (double pulley) and what type of bolt. There are two bolts used:

1. Typical M12 bolt with a spring washer under it.
2. A serrated flange head bolt. Called Durlok. The thing grips like a bulldog and can sometimes be a real SOB to get loose.

[Quicksilver77]

Thank you very much Kevin!
I will be fighting the the bulldog on this one...

[Quicksilver77]

Well the Durlok Bolt yielded with a long breaker bar... Cleaning the area, pulling the old seal and then reinstalling the new seal.

Question is... As the seal sits now it is outboard of the case by roughly 1/8" for the new seal should it be flush with the case? Perhaps it will be obvious when I remove the old seal?

[KTL]

Maybe when someone replaced the seal, he thought it should stick out a bit to get a "new" surface to seal against? I'd prefer to seat the new seal flush or just a hair deeper instead. My thinking is that the surface of the crank is cleaner further into the engine, simply because it's been sealed inside the engine case for a long time. The exterior surface of the crank has been exposed to the elements for a long time and doesn't have as smooth of a sealing surface.

[Quicksilver77]

Stellar! In and done! now off to have some oil hoses rebuilt and then I can start on the engine wiring harness that opened this can of worms! Thank you for the knowledge!

[fredmeister]

Originally Posted by Quicksilver77

Stellar! In and done! now off to have some oil hoses rebuilt and then I can start on the engine wiring harness that opened this can of worms! Thank you for the knowledge!

You may have the classic leak we all love that is not from around the crank seal but from the o-ring inside the case around the #1 crankshaft bearing.

I thought the crank seal was leaking and replaced it but this did not solve the problem for me.

If that's the case for you, there is a retrofit kit that you can install to dam up the or-ring leak, and this avoids cracking the engine block apart to replace that silly crank journal o-ring.

Good luck,
Fred

[Quicksilver77]

Thanks for the heads up Fred! I think I read up on that leak that you are mentioning, is it the kit by Tom Amon(sp) that you are referring to?