3.0SC cylinder reassembly question

[Sam1905]

Morning all...

I am finally in the 'rebuild' stage of my recent head stud induced project...

I have the pistons in the cylinders and am about to reattach to the con rods and then add heads and cam towers.

I am using Loctite 574 (Have read all the views on this) and have some questions as to reassembly process and timing that are not clear form the books I have. (I do not have Wayne's engine book - just the abbreviated 101 projects...)

Firstly - I noted it recommended smearing case sealer (574) on both sides of the large brass washer at the base of the cylinder. After doing this do I need to quickly reassemble everything and torque the head studs or does it matter if this sealer is not compressed for a while? (E.g. overnight)

I will then use an acid brush and coat the face of the cam tower and assemble heads. I assume nothing (other than the crush washer thingy) between the heads and cylinders?

I understand after coating the cam tower face I then need to quickly assemble all and torque head-studs.

How quickly?

Can anyone share the torque pattern of the head-studs?

Many thanks, once again
Sam

[Jcslocum]

1) I'm not a 574 expert but from the Application sheet:

For best performance bond surfaces should be clean and
free from grease.
2. The product is designed for close fitting flanged parts with
gaps up to 0.25 mm.
3. Apply manually as a continuous bead or by screen
printing to one surface of the flanges.
4. Low pressures (<0.5 MPa) may be used when testing to
confirm a complete seal immediately after assembly and
before curing.
5. Flanges should be tightened as soon as possible after
assembly to avoid shimming.

This from the app pdf easily find-able on the webbernets:

http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93789_574EN.pdf

2) No gasket on most cylinders between the cyl and head. Only the base shim. There are heads and cylinders that have been modified with rings to assist and improve sealing. Do you have grooves and pics to share so we can see?

3) Time depends on sealant used. Get the spec sheet and follow it.

4) With only 4 nuts per head, just use a simple cross pattern.


Good luck!!

[Flat6pac]

I assume nothing (other than the crush washer thingy) between the heads and cylinders?
3.0 head gasket? Head gaskets were used through 1983.
Bruce

[keynsham1]

I have just done this job on a 3.0SC. I didn't put Loctite on the base gaskets. It would be very tricky to do and the result would be unreliable at best. There are some things that can be done to improve the chances of avoiding oil leaks, but I don't think this is one of them. There is a sealing ring that sits in the top groove of the barrel. This seals between the barrel and head. Wherever you use Loctite 574, clean the surfaces with Isopropyl Alchohol. You can buy it on Amazon! Any oil on the mating surfaces will stop the Loctite bonding to the surface. The Loctite takes ages to set so there is no massive rush. Just make syre it doesn't become contaminated with dirt before you assemble it.

When you have finished it will look like mine!

[Henry Schmidt]

Using 574 on the base gaskets is a poor idea. The cylinders are constantly moving and the 574 is a hardening sealant (non flexible) so as the cylinders move they will crack the sealant. We recommend a non-hardening sealant like Curil T for sealing all cylinders even the 964/993 cylinders that have an o-ring instead of a gasket.
With Curil T there is no time constraints.


Head torque courtesy of Wayne's book: