The Beautiful Puzzle: 1987 3.3L 930 EFI Build

CaptainCalf · 03-20-2011, 02:57 PM

I've been lurking here for some time looking for my dream car and thanks to Tony (350HP930) I'm proud to say I finally found it!

It's gonna be a long road (build) and I'll be needing lots of help from you guys so let's get started!

What assembly lube should I get before torquing rod bolts onto the crank?

john walker's workshop · 03:29 PM

use that package that comes with the ARP rod bolts. did you already torque up the rods with the new bolts and have a machine shop check that they were still round and in spec? installing those bolts may distort the bore. new bushings fitted to the wrist pins?

CaptainCalf · 03-20-2011, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

use that package that comes with the ARP rod bolts. did you already torque up the rods with the new bolts and have a machine shop check that they were still round and in spec? installing those bolts may distort the bore. new bushings fitted to the wrist pins?

Nope, haven't done anything yet.

CaptainCalf · 03-20-2011, 06:08 PM

Will this do cuz I don't have the APR packet of lube?

Lubro Moly 3010 LM48 Engine Assembly Lube, 50g, Brand: Liqui Moly

CaptainCalf · 03-20-2011, 06:17 PM

I need to get an engine stand too. Will the P201 Engine Yolk fit most stands?
Thanks,
RC

350HP930 · 03-20-2011, 07:35 PM

I can personally attest that the rods have already been lightly reconditioned after they were refitted with the new bolts.

They were still within spec, but I'm a believer with rods its worth to go the extra mile to make sure they are right on the spec.

I took about a half a thousandths off the cap and rod and used a nice sunnen precision honing rig to make them perfectly round again and quadruple checked the measurements.

This thread reminds me that the pack of ARP moly lube that came with the bolts is still in my tool box. Let me know the next time you are up this way and I will be happy to get it to ya.

As far as lube for the bearings during assembly, any good assembly lube will do but I'm a particular fan of permatex products. You can buy some online if you can't find any at a good local auto parts store.

Amazon.com: Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube - 4 oz.: Automotive

My congrads and thanks to the Captain for giving my baby a nice new home. It will be some interesting vicarious action watching everything go back together here on the board.

power · 03-20-2011, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptainCalf

I need to get an engine stand too. Will the P201 Engine Yolk fit most stands?
Thanks,
RC

I seemed to remember I had to modify the generic stand I bought to fit the engine yoke. I can't remember off hand, but I seemed to recall either the diameter of the stand I bought was to large or I had to drill holes in it to be able to turn the engine and lock it in position.

Maybe someone else with a better memory will chime in. I can take a look at it tomorrow and post findings.

But then again, I'm in Canada and everything is different here.........

CaptainCalf · 03-21-2011, 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by power

I seemed to remember I had to modify the generic stand I bought to fit the engine yoke. I can't remember off hand, but I seemed to recall either the diameter of the stand I bought was to large or I had to drill holes in it to be able to turn the engine and lock it in position.

Maybe someone else with a better memory will chime in. I can take a look at it tomorrow and post findings.

But then again, I'm in Canada and everything is different here.........

Thanks, I've never been to Canada but it looks like a beautiful place to live...in the summer anyways

RC

CaptainCalf · 03-21-2011, 05:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350HP930

I can personally attest that the rods have already been lightly reconditioned after they were refitted with the new bolts.

They were still within spec, but I'm a believer with rods its worth to go the extra mile to make sure they are right on the spec.

I took about a half a thousandths off the cap and rod and used a nice sunnen precision honing rig to make them perfectly round again and quadruple checked the measurements.

This thread reminds me that the pack of ARP moly lube that came with the bolts is still in my tool box. Let me know the next time you are up this way and I will be happy to get it to ya.

As far as lube for the bearings during assembly, any good assembly lube will do but I'm a particular fan of permatex products. You can buy some online if you can't find any at a good local auto parts store.

Amazon.com: Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube - 4 oz.: Automotive

My congrads and thanks to the Captain for giving my baby a nice new home. It will be some interesting vicarious action watching everything go back together here on the board.

Thank you Sir, I'll chase down some Ptex 81950 ASAP so we can get this show on the road!
RC

Jesse16 · Jesse16's Garage

The yoke should fit all stands, the hole is a standard dimension. The holes in the yoke probably will not match position exactly with the yoke pushed all the way in but I never used them when I was rebuilding over the winter. The friction held my motor securely where-ever I rotated it.

CaptainCalf · 03-21-2011, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse16

The yoke should fit all stands, the hole is a standard dimension. The holes in the yoke probably will not match position exactly with the yoke pushed all the way in but I never used them when I was rebuilding over the winter. The friction held my motor securely where-ever I rotated it.

That makes sense to me. Thanks Jesse!

How's the weather in Boone? Are the Rodos blooming? I miss it...went to ASU back in the day

RC

Jesse16 · Jesse16's Garage

Weather is fine, nothing blooming up high, it snowed last week. You can still ski at Sugar and Beech. I actually have all the engine rebuild tools that I plan to sell very soon once I'm sure the engine is long term viable. Yoke, Engine stand, Cam Shaft tool, Motorcycle lift to get lower the engine, maybe. Too bad you're a long way off, not practical to ship that kind of tonage.

CaptainCalf · 03-21-2011, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse16

Weather is fine, nothing blooming up high, it snowed last week. You can still ski at Sugar and Beech. I actually have all the engine rebuild tools that I plan to sell very soon once I'm sure the engine is long term viable. Yoke, Engine stand, Cam Shaft tool, Motorcycle lift to get lower the engine, maybe. Too bad you're a long way off, not practical to ship that kind of tonage.

Oops, forgot how cold it gets there in March. I remember once it snowed 8-10" on April 1st!

Thanks for the offer on the tools, but you should keep them cuz he who dies with the most tools wins!

RC

CaptainCalf · 03-21-2011, 06:50 AM

Back to work now...

I read that I should use Threebond 1104 to seal up the cases. Is that what you guys recommend?

Thanks,
RC

350HP930 · 03-21-2011, 07:04 AM

The 1104 is good stuff, but you must use it sparingly since what squeezes into the inside of the case can break off after hardening and cause trouble with the lubrication system if there is too much of it.

To get it just right, I recommend taking a test piece with a similar bonding area width to the case seams and doing a few tests. Apply a thin layer to the center of the sealing area, bolt together, wait a couple hours for it to seal and then break it back apart to see how much it takes to completely seal the seam without squeezing past.

CaptainCalf · 03-21-2011, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350HP930

The 1104 is good stuff, but you must use it sparingly since what squeezes into the inside of the case can break off after hardening and cause trouble with the lubrication system if there is too much of it.

To get it just right, I recommend taking a test piece with a similar bonding area width to the case seams and doing a few tests. Apply a thin layer to the center of the sealing area, bolt together, wait a couple hours for it to seal and then break it back apart to see how much it takes to completely seal the seam without squeezing past.

Great Advice & Thanks!
RC

CaptainCalf · 03-21-2011, 07:46 AM

Making good progress on supplies:

Ordered both Threebond 1104 & 1211, some Loctite 574 and Dow Corning 111 for the o-rings.

I plan to apply loctite 574 to the bearing saddle surfaces in the cases and appling Threebond 1211 on#8 (balancer end).

Should I also loctite the conrod bearings?

Thanks,
RC

350HP930 · 03-21-2011, 08:11 AM

For accurate torquing you should only use the molly grease on the rod cap nuts. It will insure the proper stretch and if you get it right they will not back off. Locktite is more suited to lower torque bolts and nuts that have to deal with the risk of backing off.

Not sure if I mentioned it during any of our convos, but I worked my way through college as a motorcycle mechanic. Lost count of how many motors I had to seal up with 1104 and it always did the trick.

CaptainCalf · 03-21-2011, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350HP930

For accurate torquing you should only use the molly grease on the rod cap nuts. It will insure the proper stretch and if you get it right they will not back off. Locktite is more suited to lower torque bolts and nuts that have to deal with the risk of backing off.

Not sure if I mentioned it during any of our convos, but I worked my way through college as a motorcycle mechanic. Lost count of how many motors I had to seal up with 1104 and it always did the trick.

Nice, I've built a v-twin torque monster myself

Actually, I was thinking about applying the loctite between the conrods and conrod bearings so they don't move and not on the bolts...however, this may be overkill?
RC

350HP930 · 03-21-2011, 08:45 AM

I would advise against that since the locktite would not be guaranteed to flow out of the space between the bearing and rod before setting which could cause very bad issues since rod bearing clearance is critical, especially too little of it.

The bearings are designed to have the perfect amount of crush, so short of catastrophic mechanical failure they will be just fine being clamped inside a lightly oiled surface.