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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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Got them both within the spec of 5.6, just over slightly when I rock back and forth. Reinstalled the tensioners and after lunch I'll install the rest of the rockers and adjust the valves. Thanks for all your help, Bruce! You have been an incredibly asset.
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"Too much is just enough." |
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abit off center
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Were your heads surfaced? they look like it so should all be level: to avoid cam binding all heights must be the same, is that the problem your having? cam turning hard after torqued?
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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They were. Once I got some oil in there I could turn them by hand with some effort.
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"Too much is just enough." |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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Mark,
My method for timing the new bolt style cams is to use a small drift and place it in an adjacent hole. Use the drift to pry the outer cam sprocket against the inner lock sprocket. You can use the drift to either side of a center tooth depending on location. This allows you to spin the cam in either direction to get the desired lift. The early style cams are much easier (IMO) to adjust since you just turn the actual cam.
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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The bolt-end cams can be turned with the bolt head. You just have to strategically put the bolt in the cam at the right time, w/out the big fat washer in place. Basically you use the specialty counterholding tool to hold the cam (obviously the indexing hub, sprocket and pin must be in place) and snug the bolt into the cam snout enough to create a bit of thread interference like double-nutting. Then pull the pin and rotate the cam as desired to change the TDC overlap lift. Hold the cam with the nut, put the pin back in, put the sprocket holding tool in there, remove the bolt so you can install the big washer, put the bolt back in snug, rotate engine 360 degrees and check your lift spec. Repeat as necessary.
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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abit off center
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And an old spark plug works good to pull the pin!
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,123
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Quote:
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,123
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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I have a mini-slidehammer tool to pull the pin (the modern gear head can't have too many gimmicky tools). I made most of my tools, but this pin puller work great when the pin is pinched tight. I ended up cranking the bolt down and then (without the washer installed) I was able to make small adjustments in either direction until it was perfect.
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"Too much is just enough." |
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