The GT3 rod bearings are the same dimensions as SC rod bearings but better made, and yes made by Glyco. The problematic Glyco rod bearings have been the 3.2/3.3/3.6 (964, 993) and thus the reason for the appearance of the Clevite-Mahle rod bearings which I believe were brought to market by the guys at Automobile Associates in CT.

Take a look at this for your viewing pleasure? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/825748-rod-bearing-controversy.html

Case halves mated; not my day
 

So I got the case halves mated toady, but things did not go well. Must have been the stress from the "45 minute" window, as well as a little bit of un-preparedness.

My hope is that this is not a total disaster, but Im pretty sure I need to redo this whole project down to the case cleaning.

EDIT: Decided to remove everything, clean again, and start over. Ive since installed the missing #6 stud into the case and have the missing washer. Ive also written a checklist and will write the torque numbers near me while installing.

Three things happened:

1. Over-troqued the through-bolts: set my digital torque wrench to 35 ft-lbs. vs 35 Nm (so about 10 ft-lbs. over).

I have not reverted this yet, do I need to do so immediately?

2. While torquing the perimeter bolts on the case halves, I noticed one bolt was missing! So now the case is probably not sealed.

If I could get this bolt in now, would it even be worth trying to torque it, since the case is sealed without it torqued in that area?

3. I realized the 15mm nut for the timing chain area I had was the wrong thread pitch. Hardware store gave me the wrong one and I must have check on the wrong area.

Anyway, total bummer. I hope it's not the worst case scenario, where I could have damaged the case by the over-torquing?

Looking for a little advice and input.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y3v46ruucw...peg?dl=0&raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/85zxuyizs6...peg?dl=0&raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9t8tzmq9m...peg?dl=0&raw=1

decided to take it back apart and start over.

hope to be back where I started on Tuesday! I'll be less stressed this time too. and much more prepared!

Shameless plug:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/901646-fs-monty-muffler-2-2-out.html

JR

back at it
 

got everything cleaned up again and installed the missing perimeter stud.

just waiting for new viton orings and oil pump lock tabs to come so I can get back to mating the case again.

started to rebuild my 930 tensioners. I got two rebuild kits, and took one apart, but was hoping to find some pics as to how to assemble it and fill the chamber with oil.

I've also got a set of the late style wider idler arms and the stops, so Im very confident these tensioners will work wonderfully over pressure fed Carrera style.

ordered GT racing headers today!
 

should have them in a week or so. got the 1 5/8" European racing headers in high temp black!

still undecided between the "Dansk - Sport Exhaust Rsr Wide Style" or "GT Racing - Muffled Megaphones with Cookie Cutters" have not found much info on either of them.

Can you post some pictures of your thru-bolt o-rings that you removed? Curious to see how damaged or not damaged they are. These tend to get smashed between the hole in the crankcase and the domed washer.

Do a search on here and you'll find some threads on rebuilding the old style tensioners. John Walker has provided some really good advice on how to do this. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6126423-post8.html

here is a pic of them. Im thinking about getting a hand drill and chamfering the other side of my case today. only the LHS was chamfered.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rmj9mmfpfg...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

Curious why you chose the red gt3 main bearings?

getting this lower ring to secure the piston on these tensioners is ridiculous!! I even made a tool out of an M6 screw to hold the piston down. whoa. spent way too much time trying to get it back in.

still no success.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9fr6ddmwhe...peg?dl=0&raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zncy2agkp...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

they are very high quality, readily available, and fit the 3.0 crank perfect; RED would be acceptable tolerance for STD journals.

Rebuilt two of my 930 tensioners
 

yesterday I was able to rebuild two of those tensioners faster than I was able to attempt to rebuild one the day prior. guess I just needed to step away :)

one had a nasty oring, but the others looked OK. I had the rebuild kits, so I cleaned up and rebuilt two of them.

some more info on rebuilding
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/902765-factory-manual-image-rebuilding-930-tensioners.html

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wv1ilxtlrv...jpg?dl=0&raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzdeu2p44b...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

Chamfered LHS case
 

yesterday I was also able to chamfer the LHS of the case and the two through bolt holes in oil housing area in RHS.

I used a little hand drill and a 3/4" 82deg countersink.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xkht3y2bdm...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

now the orings fit in there nicely and they shouldn't be getting smashed when I torque the bolts now.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h899wyo3n6...jpg?dl=0&raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/opxs0tkv3s...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

Nice job... and a German had drill to boot :D

mated case halves again, success!
 

Yesterday was a productive day. I got everything back to where I'd started, all clean and ready!

Crank installed, oil pump and intermediate installed, and then mated the case halves (in 40 minutes!)

Also, got my gutted t-stat in there as well. Replacing the engine mounted cooler with a 964 turbo console for another filter.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3r01wimk0d...jpg?dl=0&raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0lcczg4hlt...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

chain ramps installed
 

whoa, getting these bad boys in was a challenge. the part where the bolt locks into the screw is very tight. I had to stretch it around a bit with a screwdriver and then lube with with some assembly lube.

after this, I was able to use some needle nose pliers to install it when I tightened the bolt into place. I confirmed they are aligned with the chains.

here is a pic of the engine right side with the brown and black ramps installed.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zmz3m2sanu...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

Congrats on the progress! Its looking great...

t-stat for filter console
 

turns out that the gutted t-stat I have won't work for a filter console, as I actually need to have one that will block off the upper portion of the t-stat to force oil through the lower inlet which would push it through the cooler.

I may actually just use my block off plugs instead, as the case was already tapped for them. Unless I can find a new modified/machined t-stat in a reasonable amount of time.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y9mp17wl3...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

Installed piston rings and pistons into cylinders
 

Got all the piston rings gapped correctly and installed them all yesterday. I just used my fingers to get them all on the pistons and it was not very difficult.

I also installed all the pistons into their cylinders using a Wiseco tapered piston ring compressor. The tool was OK, but next time I'd prefer something with more control, as the last oil ring was a bit tough to install. For each cylinder, it was sorta catch and needed a small about of force to push it through. I checked pulled two of the cylinders to see if the oil ring broke and it was OK. While I was in this process, I would pull of the compressor to see what had happened. The top oil ring on one side was just barely resting on the chamfered edge of cylinder.. it was not really caught, so I went to try again and was able to get them all installed.

Got to say, I was a bit worried something could have happened to those oil rings, but after looking at how they were "caught", I was more comfortable getting them installed.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x3hv6i8y5l...jpg?dl=0&raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zwb8wb5mra...jpg?dl=0&raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mt9zu71qk0...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

Thanks for the feedback on the Wiseco install tool. I have yet to find the ring compressor tool and method that doesn't make me pucker up, more than a little bit, every time I use it. I just finished rebuilding a nice 3.0. This was an engine that sat around for years, but the story was that it was rebuilt just prior to being sidelined. During my dis-assembly of the engine, it was clear that it had been rebuilt and was nearly perfect inside......with the exception of broken compression rings on 1,2,3....which likely occurred during assembly of the previous rebuild.....

regards,
al

PS: nice project