Easy Peasy Fresh and Breezy :D

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There is no spoon...........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAXtO5dMqEI

Quick Questions,

Ollies removed my Transmission to Engine Mounting Studs. I can't recall which way the studs go in the case.

Rounded Tip Out or In? I do know the orientation for the starter :-)

Torque too purty please

http://rennlist.com/forums/attachmen...ersion-040.jpg
http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp69/nsully/9.jpg

Seeing FLAT side out ( rounded tip in case??? )

Then I found this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332958714.jpg

WTD, My pic record was horrible too :-(

Testing KTL's pic posting techinque:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489207355.JPG

Worked like a charm, Thanks again Master KTL!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

I would have the rounded tip out. Not sure it matters except for thread engagement? But I forgets if the thread lengths are different at the ends of the stud?

Learn something new every day. Today it was the picture trick!

Those engines pictured look like 3.6 because they have the 60 teeth flywheels (one of them is a dual mass)?

Good Eye :-)

I was looking for some flywheel side, pics.

Well, Round Out, it is, Thanks again Master KTL!

I am progressing along just fine. Nothing eventful every thing is going to plan. Mating cases today.

One thing of note ( happy ) is with the new thrust bearing there is little to no play on the crank. Prior to the build, the old thrust bearing was so worn, the crank would move forward/aft about 2-3MM :eek: now about 0.3-0.5MM. Amazing what 187,000 miles can do to the #1 thrust bearing, glad Dr Steve Wong convinced me to split the case and I got to the bearings in time, lucky crank did not wear down in that area :D

Do you sit at a red light holding the clutch in?

When I was a Noob, yes. Was purty ignorant, I have to sayhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif

BTW, How you guys feel about this Break In procedure?

Kinda makes sense to me:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Side Note: What method of applying 574 do you guys like? Bead or Spread on?

I agree with that method of break in. It is similar to what Chrysler recommended in the 60s, BTW.

You should load the cylinders followed by periods of deceleration. In my opinion after about 50 miles or about 30 minutes of spirited driving the motor will be mostly broken in. I would limit any red line runs for a while longer however.

Wayne says to spread, using a brush, the 574.

I saw a video of a fella using what looks like a long reach feeler tool and used it like a spatula. I like it because one does not have to worry about the hairs pulling out or a roller for that matter

SST Sealant Spreader :-)
 

From Michael's Crafts Store :-) $4.00

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489283865.JPG

So I decided to 574 the Bearing Saddles Surfaces,1184 the Case Perimeter and Dow55 the Thru Bolt Green Viton Orings :-)

Going to use the left over ARP Ultra Lube for the all the Nuts

An acid brush works really well to spread the 1184.


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x2 on the acid brush, that spatula will be a PITA.

Question

The case thru holes only have the chamfer of nut side should I chamfer the bolt side?

I did. Just be careful that your countersink leaves a smooth finish.

Roger that!

Thank you Brother

As a beginner here, I'll share what worked for me. Used some tricks from my woodworking background. Mounted my countersink in a long extension which makes it much easier to read perpendicular with the hole, and also line up the extension with one of the head studs. I also rotated the case past vertical so the chips would fall out on onto the floor instead of into the case. My through bolts went on very nicely with the viton o rings just starting to squeeze down at the proper time. Also used Henry's recommended Dow 55 and the Sharpie cap tool to get them on. I also torqued them dry and without o rings during assembly, then went back the next day and reinstalled them one by one with the orings and Dow 55. Way less stressful that way.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489368054.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489368054.jpg

Outstanding!
 

So I was pondering should I just send it back to the shop and have them chamfer it? Nah, just do it, it is only Aluminum http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/silly.gif

Brother Jameel, Great idea about alignment technique, too bad I do not have a long 1 piece extension. I am glad you also decided to do it by hand, much better control vs a hand drill, Boy that case is SOFT :eek:

So I bit the bullet and went to HF and purchased a $5.00 3 in 1 Countersink Hand Tool. Oh what the hey, eh :rolleyes:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG
Before ( stuffed paper towel in the hole to catch the shavings )
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG
20 Twist Later
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG
After ( used Emory cloth to smooth it out and a vacuum to remove the debris )

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG
Why we need to chamfer the Case Thru Holes, Geez, Thanks Porsche

Smile of Joy, Priceless, now to build the Rod and Chain Holders :D