...and the Rod & Chain Holding Tools, Thanks Wayne :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489374097.JPG

Home Depot $30

Tomorrow, will Pelican Will Call: Orings, Washers and Oil Pump Tab locks then Sealing Time FINAL.

Is that a homemade "yoke" ?

^^^, not sure, not mine. I liberated it from the net :D

It's lookin really good Jim!.. Good stuff!

BTW, if you purchase a long extension, I suggest that you consider getting the 'wobble' type. At times, you will will find that the 'wobble' extensions are very helpful.

<a title="'Wobble' Extensions" href=" http://www.mactools.ca/en-ca/Ratchets-and-Accessories/Extensions/584dbc02-1d78-4ebe-b89e-a2eb0106ad2c/Wobble-Extensions">'Wobble' Extensions</a>

'Keep the faith' Bro :cool:

My technique for countersinking holes is apply heavy pressure so it makes either spirals or thick chips, then back off with light pressure and maintain some speed to clean up any burrs.

Have to be careful though in aluminum since it digs fast and can get out of concentricity easily.

^^^, Oh yeah, noticed that on the first test one then I did drag the tool to smooth out the thick chips and emory cloth help clean the sharp burrs.

+1, yeap, sucker is softer than expected.

I am still amazed how the previous rebuilder or Factory for that matter did not counter sink all the case thru holes, just nut side but did not even do the two behind the oil cooler either. Geez.

Word has it that the original o-rings were substantially thinner and that's why they got by w/out being smashed during original assembly. I think Henry Schmidt shared that info. Still doesn't fully explain why they did only one side? Maybe they figured that the nut side should be chamfered since the washer could rotate when tightening, but the bolt side wouldn't rotate?

Ah so desu-ka :-D

A fella posted on the sealant thread, he had his buddy hold the washer in place as he tightened. Can't imagine Porsche doing that, just would be overly cost prohibitive to have to employees working on the same area, makes no business sense.

Well, we fixed it, huh :D

Case Sealed :D
 

Doh, those Holders were too wide. No biggy, I wish I had a second pair of hands :eek:

IMPORTANT, Test fitting is a must to get an idea of how it goes back together. I highly recommend if you have an opportunity to help someone rebuild, DO IT! To get a feel for assembly, is a priceless experience, Reading and Videos just do not do justice.

2nd fitting went very smoothly, besides the bloody holders, oh well.

Actually, glad I test fitted, I found a metal/piece of aluminum dust particle on #4 bearing ( Damn Hand Chamfering ), popped right off but it sure would not be fun to have it wear into the bearings or crank.

Success!

Case Sealed, the ACID BRUSH is my new best friend :D, I used Master Henry Schimidt's method of tightening with no O-rings and let sit over night. I will install O-rings with Dow55 Tomorrow.

I concur with Jameel, this really put less pressure on the doing the sealing in time.

I used new M8 Oval Lock Nuts and M8 Crush Washer. PURTY :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489471047.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489471047.JPG

This Stage, no left over bolts or nuts, :cool:

Time for Cold Onehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Installed ARP Head Bolts, Wow what a time consuming task but I did it :D

All 135.00MM top of thread to case.

Rigged the rods with some Rubber Bands to test rotation, SUCCESS :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489562389.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489562389.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489562389.JPG

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4brUhjCIFw4?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Looking good! Why did you use oval nuts on the case perimeter instead of nylon? My 3.0 had nylon.

Nice!

Who makes the crank pulley?

I used oval nuts because that is what was on her. I love the nylon ones but always worried about heat cycles with nylon.

Clewett Industries make the Pulley, they make the spark plug wires too. About 5 miles from me too :-)

Draco A50G

Congrats on your engine build. I have a question related to this build. Since you also list POC, are you going to run the car or? Just wondering if you will ever enjoy the extra anticipated HP on the track vs a few seconds on the freeway.

Oh yeah, well I will take her on a DE just to see what she can do but nothing crazy because something always breaks afterwards.

But I will dyno her and take her on my favorite test track :D

Update: All pistons in Cylinders, ready to mate to case and place heads & Cam tower. After deck height check of course.

Tool Review: WISECO RCS09800 true 98MM Tapered Spring Compressor is the BOMB! No hammering, slips right on once you position the spring correctly, with the gap side in first it compress right in then remaining rings just follow suit. On my list of my favorite tools to use. :-)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1354250247.jpg

Also the 964 Wrist Pin Tool modified:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098899496.jpg

You have to cut this very expensive tool 1/4" on both side tabs to make it work for the 3.2 & 3.4 Pistons, you learn how to use it when you put on the wrist pins on one side first, WORKS GREAT. I believe the Stomski works about the same way but with a much thinner holder. I like the Porsche tool because it does not allow the clip to fall into the engine if you miss-align it.

Agreed on the wiseco tool.


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Deck Height: 1.01MM :D using 0.50 Case Gaskets. Love it :D

Long Block Assembled :D
 

Half Way:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490266651.JPG

All spinning fine. Heads and Cylinders are so Purty. LOL Case is dirty but inside is spic and span, like the CP pistons :P

Wanted to install Cam Towers and Cam Shafts but just too tired, need some rest :eek: or will make mistakes. So far so GOOD!