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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy Squirrel View Post
A bushing is thicker, so you have to bore out the small end bore. That makes it somewhat weaker. Probably not the best thing on 95mm or larger bores with a 23mm pin.
Oh great, I am 98mm.
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Old 03-01-2018, 07:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy Squirrel View Post
A bushing is thicker, so you have to bore out the small end bore. That makes it somewhat weaker. Probably not the best thing on 95mm or larger bores with a 23mm pin.

it seem to me the one I have , they look easy to install and remove and less problem to work with..
just my .02

Last edited by frankoporsche; 03-01-2018 at 01:45 PM..
Old 03-01-2018, 07:57 AM
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Are you sending in all your rods? It is my understanding the all the bushes are reamed together so the center to center of the set is the same. Any expert machinists out there to confirm? Maybe it doesn't make enough of a difference to worry about?

Yes the bushings are thicker, but not OD. They are pressed in and the ID is reamed to size to fit the wrist pin.
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Old 03-01-2018, 08:21 AM
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Its a split bushing and inexpensive. The small gap should not make any issue as long as the bores are round and have the correct clearance.

But any gap should give cause to worry about the "fit" as the bushing should be in some interference and the gap is not typically that large.

Here is the rub.

You get what you pay for. The cost to rebuild these rods at places like Ollies is dirt cheap and to expect at that price, any shop to do all that is necessary is foolish. Many critical steps are not even considered. Time costs money.

As for using solid bushings, and when, there is no time not to, or to. It comes down to the quality you wish to promote and sell. These split bushings are cheap and easy to fit. Yes, as solid bushing is used when you wish to change the CCL, but there is little that can be done with a std solid bushing. Normally any change to the CCL requires a thicker wall bushing and often a different pin size.

Rebuilding rods, stock or aftermarket requires care and attention and you should not expect this when the price to rebuild the rod is as low as some production machine shops offer. I'm sure all they are doing is cutting the caps to hold the CCL lengths the same and push in a new bushing and hone it for clearance. Done.

That's probably all you get for the money. You may find the CCL's all different, the BE bores with a high level of cross hatch, they will use a course set of honing stones, so the material comes out quick etc. Not a good result for good bearing clamping.

Quality costs, so you need to decide what is important to you and shop at places accordingly.

Rolex's and Timex's.
Old 03-01-2018, 09:46 AM
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The split showing that much and the taper would concern to me, these are mine with the same bushing.




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Old 03-01-2018, 12:42 PM
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hey Neil
you are absolute right..I prefer the proper and done right..
I am going accept for what I have for now..next rebuilt it will be better upgrade .
thanks for your truly right


Rolex's and Timex's.[/QUOTE]

Last edited by frankoporsche; 03-01-2018 at 01:49 PM..
Old 03-01-2018, 01:43 PM
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If you shave one or both of the big end cap/mating surfaces so you can rebore/hone to get the big end back to round, don't you have to use a solid bushing in the small end with a undersized ID/thicker wall - or just a solid piece? So you can offset drill/mill its center a little to make up for the center to center rod length you lost getting the big end right?

Or is the amount shaved at the big end usually so small that the loss of rod length is immaterial?
Old 03-01-2018, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Fricke View Post
If you shave one or both of the big end cap/mating surfaces so you can rebore/hone to get the big end back to round, don't you have to use a solid bushing in the small end with a undersized ID/thicker wall - or just a solid piece? So you can offset drill/mill its center a little to make up for the center to center rod length you lost getting the big end right?

Or is the amount shaved at the big end usually so small that the loss of rod length is immaterial?
I sent all my rods back to machine shop for rework and rod balance as well....
Old 03-01-2018, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Fricke View Post
If you shave one or both of the big end cap/mating surfaces so you can rebore/hone to get the big end back to round, don't you have to use a solid bushing in the small end with a undersized ID/thicker wall - or just a solid piece? So you can offset drill/mill its center a little to make up for the center to center rod length you lost getting the big end right?

Or is the amount shaved at the big end usually so small that the loss of rod length is immaterial?
Absolutely correct. Thank you for knowing how it should be done correctly.

Unfortunately at the prices quoted by some machine shops, this is never done. At $25.00 a rod what can you expect to be done or not done.

It does depend on how out of round the BE bore is. Most often they go out of round across the parting line and often you can just dress the cap and hold the CCL.

But we have seen many rods come to us after repair with the CCL lengths all over the place. I think these production machine shops figure the DIY builder doesn't know any better, will never see or care.

The easy way to tell how carefully the rod was rebuilt is to look at the finish in the BE bore. It should have a polished finish. If it has high cross hatch the rod was honed quickly, usually in pairs, with course stones so the time to remove was quick.

It is these different approaches to how parts should be repaired that differentiates a production shop from a race shop. And cost.
Old 03-02-2018, 09:36 AM
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I finally got my rods back from the machine shop and it is much better bore finish and the bushing ID is right on the money ...
Every ones thank you....
Old 03-14-2018, 06:02 PM
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