R55 N14s Another Crank, but No Start

[gnerffed]

Hi,

I have 2010 R55s with an N14 turbo (stop laughing in the back!). She’s aged, but only has 36k miles. Reason for the post, CRANKS, but NO START, not even a sputter.
No previous symptoms, except some fault codes and low oil pressure at idle (which I was starting to tackle). Trouble codes:

• FRM: Term. 30A faulty (9CA9)
• Battery exhausted (9CB5)
• Short-circuit fault (9CBB)
• K-CAN line fault (E584, which sounds bad).
• I have intermittent codes for misfire and from the JBE, but none now.

Key to note these codes existed before the no-start and she’s gone 6k miles with them. I’ve been working through other issues. Not a starting issue until now (after sitting for a four-day weekend).

What I think I know so far:

• First MINI to me, but comfortable around car repair.
• Newer battery. Passes tests (in/out of car) and is on an automatic charger.
• Sitting, 13.7-VDC, cranking 12.4-VDC.
• Ground lead is aftermarket, I don’t know if I’m meant to have IBS.

• No “spare” potential IBS connector is evident but have registered the batt. as new in any case.

• New coils & plugs (all 4) last winter. Had a misfire, this helped eliminate it (mostly).

At the coils connectors I can see a good ground, about 11.4-V supply (cranking), and
I see this from the ECU transistors:


So, referenced to chassis gnd. (hence the noisy sig.?), 11.4-V on the power pin (cyan), the pull down & spark from the ECU (yellow).


Fuel observations:

• LPFP power, it’s 11.5-V whilst cranking.
• Filter looks ok, ordering one today in any case today.
• HPFP looks original, it doesn’t appear to have been in the recall...
• Checking the live data on my cheesy Autel dongle & iPhone scanner, I see something I think is telling: RAIL PRESSURE is 40.61-psi static and cranking. The demand is 0-psi static, and climbs to 800-psi cranking. The actual feedback pressure doesn’t change a wink.

• I’d probe the cable looking for supply voltage or to fake a signal from a bench supply, but I have no pinouts or expected ranges. Gnd., supply and signal, but which is which, and is signal a current loop or voltage range or pulse?

I thought the HPFP was mechanical, and am not clear on what its connector does.

I do not have a fuel pressure measurement system that’ll fit anywhere on this car—which sucks. Pop-off the LPFP feed to the HPFP and let it squirt into a receptacle? Pull an injector and do the same? Remember, it’s not even sputtering—'hard to see it being one injector.

I read about an “emergency mode,” wherein the system will still try to push pressure if there are problems like a fuel pressure sensor failure?

Or are the earlier codes likely to be an issue (now, after 6k miles of driving)?

I’d really like some help ladies & gents,
-Jeffrey B.