Now it’s my turn for a workshop build thread

[Captain Ahab Jr]

Looks good Paul, stupid question but as part of the original house has rot are you using pressure treated lumber ?

Scaffolding is worth the money, makes working so much easier

[URY914]

You shouldn't use pressure treated wood as it is too "wet". As it drys out it will warp and the nails will back out. Should only be used where the walls meet the concrete, i.e., the wall's bottom plate. If I were to use treated lumber for the wall studs the walls would end up a crooked mess. Also treated lumber drys out and is hard as a rock. Makes for extra work when trying to put us a shelf 5 years from now. You'd have to pre-drill every hole. Not a big deal but just another reason not to use it.

[Captain Ahab Jr]

you guys sure build funny over there

your exterior 2x4 stud wall frame is what I'll be using for my internal partition walls but I'll just screw mine to the base joists/concrete floor slab

I expect my bathroom walls to take some wind force loads but not anything hurricane force

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Nice progress Paul, must feel great to have some walls up!

[ckelly78z]

Wow, your making far better progress than I am on the shop build, far too many mini-emergencies get in my way.....looking good.

[URY914]

Here are the embeds. About $3.00/ea.

[A930Rocket]

^^^^

So you drill a hole, epoxy it in and install a threaded rod it?

[URY914]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

^^^^

So you drill a hole, epoxy it in and install a threaded rod it?

Correct!

[KFC911]

Cool thread...just saw it and haven't read it all...yet. But I can tell by yer dirt that you don't live on the southside !

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by URY914

Here are the embeds. About $3.00/ea.

Paul I have never heard or seen that type of hardware , what type of epoxy do you use ? Do you put epoxy in the hole and on the exterior of the " bolt " before inserting into the hole ? I like to learn new things ! I assume you install the hardware so the washer portion is flush with the surface ? They are pricey little devils aren't they

[URY914]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Paul I have never heard or seen that type of hardware , what type of epoxy do you use ? Do you put epoxy in the hole and on the exterior of the " bolt " before inserting into the hole ? I like to learn new things ! I assume you install the hardware so the washer portion is flush with the surface ? They are pricey little devils aren't they

I haven't installed one yet but I will be next week. This weekend is the Roar Before the 24 so I'll be at Daytona Sat/Sun.

Typically you drill the hole, blow the dust out, fill the hole about 3/4 of the way with epoxy and drive it in. Drive it in after the pressure treated bottom plate 2x4 has been set so you are driving it thru the plate and into the concrete.

The epoxy is Simpson Strong-Tie SET-3G or a Hilti product. All must have Florida Product Approvals.

[VincentVega]

Is just the head interior threaded? Whats it for?

thanks for the updates, learned something new

[schwarz633]

That appears to be a mechanical anchor:

https://www.strongtie.com/mechanicalanchors_mechanicalanchoringproducts/thd-rc_anchor/p/titen-hd-rod-coupler

[URY914]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

Is just the head interior threaded? Whats it for?

thanks for the updates, learned something new

I have to install a threaded rod into the end of it and it goes up in the wall cavity and through the double 2x4 top plate on the wall. I then put a 2" x 2" by 3/16" washer and nut. The rods are required to be installed within 8" of the end or corner of a wall and 48" on center spacing in the wall.

And before you ask, they don't tell me how tight to crank down the nut. No torque requirements are stated.

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by URY914

I have to install a threaded rod into the end of it and it goes up in the wall cavity and through the double 2x4 top plate on the wall. I then put a 2" x 2" by 3/16" washer and nut. The rods are required to be installed within 8" of the end or corner of a wall and 48" on center spacing in the wall.

And before you ask, they don't tell me how tight to crank down the nut. No torque requirements are stated.

Tighten them until they strip then back off a 1/4 turn

[A930Rocket]

Just snug them down. If you over tighten them, the wood shrinks and then there’s a gap.

That’s what I hear anyway.

Do you use the same procedure for a two story home? We use the threaded rod epoxied in with a Simpson LTT-19 using the same spacing as you. The exterior sheathing has the **** nailed out of it from the bottom plate to the bottom of the rafters. Interior shear walls the same as needed. H10’s hold the rafters on.

[URY914]

I've got a interior shear wall. It gets nailed like crazy.

I suppose the rods and anchors would be the same on a 2-story. BTW my plans call for 3/8" rods which pretty skinny. I came a upon about 20 1/2" rods so that's what I'm using.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by URY914

Here are the embeds. About $3.00/ea.

And worth every penny!

Peace of mind when a hurricane blows through.

I built a little canopy off my back patio and made sure I used some very healthy lag bolts to fasten the post brackets onto the concrete deck. Those babies are stout!

Thanks for the pics, Paul - really appreciate any details you can share...

[URY914]

Seems like today is everyone's workshop update status day.

This weekend I completed framing another wall section. This had a window in it which is framed with 2 king studs on each side and a single jack stud and double 2x6 header. It was a 10' section of wall and it was HEAVY when it came time to stand it up. I also found out I was 1/2' off from the bottom plate to the top plate on my stud spacing. What a PITA to deconstruct and nail it back together. Measure twice - nail once.

Also due to the window location and threaded rod spacing or each side of the window and from the corners and not exceeding 48", I have 6 rod in this section of wall.

[rfuerst911sc]

And the pics are where ???